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ClownColor

Wheels Grind When Turning

28 posts in this topic

Toyota tundra 2012 4wheel drive SR5 crew cab with tow package.

Starting about a month ago I could hear what sounded like metal banging somewhere underneath my truck when going over potholes.

Starting last weekend I would have horrible intermittent grinding sounds when turning both left or right.

Came back from dealership oil change and tire rotation and had them look into it...they said is uneven wear on rotars. Break pads are fine, just need to grind down and smooth rotars . I asked his it happened since pads are good, said its because the pads don't cover the whole rotar.

Does this sound plausible? Or am I wasting money? $168 to do this or I'll do it myself if I find a day open...any vids on taking on/off rotars 2012 tundra?

Thanks

CC

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27 minutes ago, ClownColor said:

Toyota tundra 2012 4wheel drive SR5 crew cab with tow package.

Starting about a month ago I could hear what sounded like metal banging somewhere underneath my truck when going over potholes.

Starting last weekend I would have horrible intermittent grinding sounds when turning both left or right.

Came back from dealership oil change and tire rotation and had them look into it...they said is uneven wear on rotars. Break pads are fine, just need to grind down and smooth rotars . I asked his it happened since pads are good, said its because the pads don't cover the whole rotar.

Does this sound plausible? Or am I wasting money? $168 to do this or I'll do it myself if I find a day open...any vids on taking on/off rotars 2012 tundra?

Thanks

CC

Disk brakes are a pretty easy job. Been doing my own for years on a lot of different cars and SUV's it takes about 45min's a side. Faster after you have done them for a while.  Since front brakes do most of the stopping, do it right and get it done. Good Luck. :)

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the brakes are a breeze will take you longer to jack truck up then do the job. tons of videos on you tube. I didnt even need a c-clamp or a caliper tool to do the pads I could just push the pistons in by hand. I got 86k on my OEM pads so thats what I went with as replacements. My rotars were fine. I have read lots of complaints on other forums about rotors going bad because lugnuts were being over torqued so might want to have another discussion with your dealer or monitor.

go slow take your time and its an easy job lots of videos on youtube. I would just do rotors and pads while your in there if your mileage is getting up there. use some zip ties to tie the calipers to something while you do the rotors to keep from damaging the brake lines. you can just set the rear on the axle but be careful of it falling.

 

*** EDIT *** btw the way the video above is for the old generation tundra up to 2006. The new 07 and above will be very similar but you will notice much bigger brakes and rotors on the  5.7's 

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Thanks for the info.

I've done all four breaks/rotors on a f150 and it wasn't to bad but I also had a help from a buddy. Youtube is awesome but I've had problems with poor vids before so thanks for finding a reliable one.

Dealership said my pads were at 6mm and didn't need to replace until 3mms...I'll take a look once I get them off.

The reason I was curious is this:

The T-SB-0013-13 addresses a condition where “some 2007 – 2012 model year Tundra vehicles may exhibit a rubbing or grinding noise from the rear when making left or right turns. New parking brake plate sub-assemblies have been developed to address this condition.”

Like other TSB’s this repair is covered under the Toyota Basic Warranty, 36 months or 36,000 miles whichever occurs first, from the vehicle’s in-service date. And the repair is limited to the condition described.

I also read Dust Shield frequently go bad and need adjusting on tundras...

Unfortunately, my truck is outside the warranty period and this TSB is quit expensive. I'll take the dealerships recommendation and hope this fixes the problem. I've never had uneven rotors make this horrible intermittent noise but we'll see. I guess I just don't know how a warped rotor would make grinding noises only when turning and intermittently...
 

 

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I just put rear brakes in my tundra (2008) at home. Took about 1/2 hour to replace the pads and rotors. The aftermarket rotors did rub on the backing plates a little for a couple hundred miles but has since resolved itself  ( :grin: ).

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5 hours ago, Jeremy airjer W said:

I just put rear brakes in my tundra (2008) at home. Took about 1/2 hour to replace the pads and rotors. The aftermarket rotors did rub on the backing plates a little for a couple hundred miles but has since resolved itself  ( :grin: ).

I know u work and know a lot about Toyota's... Do my symptoms sound like a warped rotor? Or more of the TSB? Why would warped rotors cause grinding on turns?

Thanks,

CC

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Warped rotors typically only cause a brake pulsation. It is possible that you have rust ridges on the rear rotors either on the rotor surface that are rubbing on the backing plate, rust built up in the hat of the rotor (the part the ebrake presses on) and it is rubbing on the e-brake shoes, or you may have a backing plate that has been bent out of shape. I am not familiar with that particular TSB. I can say that if you are hearing a scrapping type noise on a turn it should be fairly easy to dissemble the brake components and inspect for any signs of rubbing between the rotor and the backing plates.

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UPDATE: The "stealership" was wrong once again!

I had a feeling the rotors where not bad as this didn't make sense to me when he explained what was going on.

Yesterday, I bought new rotors and decided to do the breaks as well since I was under there and have almost 80k on the vehicle. We took the wheels off and both of us looked at the rotors, and with the naked eye, appeared to be fine...but it would be hard to tell if they were warped. So, as the dealer suggested, we replaced the rotors, and replace the break pads, took the truck for a spin and instantly noticed the horrible rubbing/grinding noises. Took it apart again with a closer look and found the problem...which if we were looking for right away, AND WHICH THE DEALER SHOULD HAVE SAW, was that the rotor was grinding on the dust cover...WHICH I ASKED THEM TO LOOK AT!. We were able to bend it back out some and the grinding instantly went away. At least I didn't give them any of my money and came out ahead doing it on my own. I could only imagine what my out the door cost would have been after the dealership replaced my rotors and still had the same issues...idiots.

I also don't understand why the dust cover has a lip that goes into a small grove in the rotor...seems destine to fail if any slight abnormities. 

Anyways, I should be good on breaks and rotors for another 100k but we'll see how long the this dust cover stays in place.

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I think my stealership wanted $150 an axle just to do the pads.... I laughed knowing it would take that tech only a few mins to do the job. Like I said it took me longer to jack the truck up and get the wheels off than to change all four pads on mine.

What dealership do you take yours too might need to find a new one.

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19 minutes ago, rundrave said:

I think my stealership wanted $150 an axle just to do the pads.... I laughed knowing it would take that tech only a few mins to do the job. Like I said it took me longer to jack the truck up and get the wheels off than to change all four pads on mine.

What dealership do you take yours too might need to find a new one.

Funny you asked since I'm on my second dealership since the original where I bought my truck from  (Walser Bloomington) were complete morons...NEVER GO TO WALSER BLOOMINGTON! Good sales division but you can't even guess how dumb the service techs are there.

This happened at Burnsville Toyota. I've actually had pretty descent luck there so I'll continue to go back...this was probably more so one bad service tech and manager combo. I don't like taking my vehicles there after hours, to any shop, cause I feel you get less senior guys but unfortunately that's the only time I can get there.

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when I lived in the cities I had more than a couple bad experiences with Burnsville Toyota so  I ended up using Maplewood Toyota and always had good service work done there and they were always honest. I had some high mileage toyotas back then and their diagnosis was always spot on. Was way out of my way but they were worth the drive that was 16 years ago so who knows how things are today. But after hearing your story doesn't look like things have changed much in burnsville.

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9 minutes ago, rundrave said:

when I lived in the cities I had more than a couple bad experiences with Burnsville Toyota so  I ended up using Maplewood Toyota and always had good service work done there and they were always honest. I had some high mileage toyotas back then and their diagnosis was always spot on. Was way out of my way but they were worth the drive that was 16 years ago so who knows how things are today. But after hearing your story doesn't look like things have changed much in burnsville.

Yes, Maplewood Toyota is a great place to purchase or have service done. Been going there for years.

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7 hours ago, rundrave said:

I think my stealership wanted $150 an axle just to do the pads.... I laughed knowing it would take that tech only a few mins to do the job. Like I said it took me longer to jack the truck up and get the wheels off than to change all four pads on mine.

What dealership do you take yours too might need to find a new one.

That actually isn't that bad. Your looking at $30 to $50 for pads, time to turn the rotors, clean the rust from the brackets so that the pads will again move freely, lubricate the slides, reassemble, put the tires on, and test drive. I can do all of that in about 25 minutes but I have 20 years of experiences and all the right tools to make the job a lot easier.

Comparatively speaking I can take the family out for burgers and easily spend $50 - $70 for the four of us. I know full well I can buy everything I need to have the same burgers at home for about $25...... ;)

Remember those "techs" that can do that job in minutes are the same "techs" that are providing a lot of useful information on this forum and at no charge. 

ClownColor and Cooperman like this

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Actually the burgers would be more like 15 for the materials.

50 for parts and 100 for labor/overhead/profit doesn't seem out of line for these days.

 

Jeremy airjer W and Cooperman like this

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3 hours ago, Jeremy airjer W said:

That actually isn't that bad. Your looking at $30 to $50 for pads, time to turn the rotors, clean the rust from the brackets so that the pads will again move freely, lubricate the slides, reassemble, put the tires on, and test drive. I can do all of that in about 25 minutes but I have 20 years of experiences and all the right tools to make the job a lot easier.

Comparatively speaking I can take the family out for burgers and easily spend $50 - $70 for the four of us. I know full well I can buy everything I need to have the same burgers at home for about $25...... ;)

Remember those "techs" that can do that job in minutes are the same "techs" that are providing a lot of useful information on this forum and at no charge. 

Hey, I hear ya! I have no problem taking my car in. But something didn't seem right with their diagnosis and I can't afford to waste money. I had a shop and tech I absolutely trusted but they've moved. Now I need to find a new mechanic. I feel a lot of places just don't take time to properly diagnosis things and have a checklist they move down...wheel make noise, replace rotors and pads...no fix, replace bearings, no fix, hubs...rods...ect. It would have taken 5 minutes to look and I even asked them about it. Plain and simple it was a missed diagnosis. Like I said, I've had good luck there before so I'll write it off as a poor tech and service manager... That's the problem with dealerships vs shops...at least a shop u know who's working on your truck.

Thanks for the help guys.

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42 minutes ago, ClownColor said:

Hey, I hear ya! I have no problem taking my car in. But something didn't seem right with their diagnosis and I can't afford to waste money. I had a shop and tech I absolutely trusted but they've moved. Now I need to find a new mechanic. I feel a lot of places just don't take time to properly diagnosis things and have a checklist they move...

You did exactly what the guy looking at it should have done. Test drive, confirm the sound, and inspect. If he was worried about doing it for free than I'm sure a reasonable hoist charge could have been negotiated and I'm sure you would have understood the reason for the charge. If they had pulled it apart and realized the backing plate was misshapen they then could have brought that to your attention and then leverage the brake service into the estimate. Most shops that have an inspection fee will usually drop it if the work is done at that time or at least credit if the work is done in the future.

Nobody is faulting you for for raising red flags and not trusting the conclusion  you where given by the dealer. You definitely did the right thing without "factory training".

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Thus guy had a brake inspection done a couple of months ago. They decided to do the work themselves. It came in today for a brake noise. Can you see the problem? tmp_12622-20160825_104829-813130582.jpg

ClownColor likes this

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Fun Game!  You should do this weekly!

did the bracket for the pads slide out (put in backwards)? Not sure what that silver metal piece sticking out is...

 

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Not only are the pads installed backwards "inside pad is on the outside" but they are not even the right pads for the vehicle. Those metal pieces or tabs would fit into the center of the caliper piston and hold the pad to the piston.

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This is how it should look.... ;)

 

tmp_12622-20160825_125055883840012.jpg

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20 minutes ago, Jeremy airjer W said:

This is how it should look.... ;)

 

tmp_12622-20160825_125055883840012.jpg

Do you polish and paint everything when doing service?   :D;)

Looks like new.  

Hoey likes this

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Sometimes it is better to just start over..... :o

Hoey likes this

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BRAKES ARE KIND OF IMPORTANT! DON'T KNOW IF YOU WANT TO SKIMP ON SOME THAT  CAN SAVE YOUR LIFE.   are the wheel bearings ok?

Edited by sunniewally

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So follow up...can I save the old rotars? Thinking of getting them turned, bath in oil, and wrapped in plastic. I have almost 80k on truck. If new rotars last another 100k, I'm thinking I could put these old ones back on? Any advice on this? How could I save these?

Jeremy airjer W likes this

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Isnt there some rust inhibitor paper or something that might be better than oil/plastic? 

 

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