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Stain for treated lumber

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Need to stain 4x4 treated posts for a window well.  Wondering what stain works best on treated lumber?  Any recommendations?

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Stain used to be thin like water and soak into the wood , now days the stain is thick like latex paint and layers on the surface . It then begins to peel just like paint . I would look for the thinnest liquid you can find such as wood preserver with  tinting added in . If the can says transparent it should be good . 

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9 hours ago, delcecchi said:

I think letting it age a while, like a year, is a key factor.

That's true, Del. Tough to stain fresh treated wood...and not recommended. I'm not sure what Cheers is referring to, but oil-based stain is not thick and does not "layer" on the surface.  It's thin, and readily absorbed into the wood. At least the stain I used on my deck and on two other persons decks. Most of the oil-based stains are linseed oil with UV protectant, preservatives, and tint added, (semi-transparent)  and the latex ones (which IMO stay away from) like Behr, will do exactly what Cheers said. If you can, I'd wait a year to stain those 4 x 4's.

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There is currently nothing on the market that will stay on treated lumber for more than a season without peeling. The government has regulated the quality out of everything. 

If you want to stain your deck, fence, whatever it is, buy Cedar first. If you enjoy spending your summer peeling paint flakes and restraining, buy treated. 

The best advise is like that of what has already been said here, let it age at least a season, 3-4 is better yet. Then use oil based transparent or semi transparent stain. 

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A few years ago I needed to restrain my house so I went looking for stain . I need solid colour ,oil stain . I went to all the stores  and asked for thin liquid solid colour oil based stain , we checked in the cans on all the brands recommended  and they where all thick. Maybe it was because I asked for solid not semi transparent,  I don't know  , but I could not find any stain for houses, I never looked at deck stain maybe  there is a difference there . Just my experience  .I suspect the issue is solid vs semi transparent . If anyone knows of a solid thin stain please advise 

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If you use an oxycilic acid based wood cleaner you don't have to wait a year to stain it. The acid removes the mill glaze that stops the stain from penetrating.

Even the better stain products like Sikkens and Cabot have been regulated to mediocre.

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1 hour ago, Neighbor_guy said:

There is currently nothing on the market that will stay on treated lumber for more than a season without peeling. The government has regulated the quality out of everything. 

 

I stained my fence that was made of treated lumber 7 years ago.  The stain is still holding strong on the panels and the 4x4 posts with no need to re-stain. Maybe quality has changed in 7 years but I just used a cheap Thompson's semi-transparent stain.  

I let the panels and the 4x4's age for a summer before staining.  

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last year I built a cedar deck and had a fence around a window well that was green treated that was built the year before.  I stained both with a top of the line stain from Sherwin Williams...the deck held up except where the wife and kids used shovels to clear snow...the fence looks great still with out a sign of peeling or wear.

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I need to replace the well as the old cedar one has partially collapsed.  I was thinking of staining the one side that comes in contact with the ground and then do the inside of the well later.  Maybe I'll just build it and stain the inside next year.  The old cedar one lasted 18 years.  What can I expect from the treated lumber in the ground like that?

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you may do better with the treated wood made for wood basements as apposed to the regular stuff made for above ground deck and such 

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12 hours ago, Cheers said:

you may do better with the treated wood made for wood basements as apposed to the regular stuff made for above ground deck and such 

When I was fixing the step for my deck, I noticed that there were two kinds of treated lumber at Menards.  One was rated for foundations and ground contact.  Considering my age I bought the cheap stuff....

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I got the stuff made for ground contact.  Thinking about putting a heavy sheet of poly around the outside of it.  Then there would be no contact with the ground.  Good idea or not?

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 I'd go with a galvanized window well but thats me.  

Ground contact- there is a difference.  Sitting on washed rock and back filled with the same and 6 mil VB as opposed to direct contact with soil.   I'm saying vapor barrier instead of poll_because it appears  the ke_ between x and z isn't working on ke_board.   Use the VB, it will also keep debris from entering the well and plugging up the drain if _ou have one.  Wait a ear or two and use a penetrating stain.

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I looked at galvanized but not too thrilled about how they look.  Also got a estimate for a landscape block one but this soil moves like crazy here and that just wouldn't work here.  There is a drain with pea rock on the bottom but was just back filled with the dirt that was dug out to build the well.  I'll do it your way Surface.  Thanks for the advice everyone.

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