Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

snagger

Deck Staining

8 posts in this topic

2 years ago I stained my cedar deck for the first time. I was sure to let it sit for a year or so before I stained it. Unfortunately nearly all of the stain pealed off. I think my issue was the fact that some wood has a mill glaze on it and you need to sand it off or the stain won't soak in. So, I now have power washed the entire deck which basically stripped off almost all of the old stain. I then sanded the entire deck. I now plan to take a leaf blower and broom and make sure all the dust, etc. is off it and it's clean. But....I read an article that states that if it rains after you sand a deck that you have to start over and power wash and sand it again. That doesn't make sense to me. Anybody have any experience or advice?

 

Thanks.

RebelSS likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Makes no sense to me either.  I've stained a lot of decks in 25 years, including my own. Just did my top rails yesterday. Here's MY views/experiences/opinions, for what they're worth, on deck staining: Make sure it's dried out well, meaning at least 4-5 days with sunny, dry weather. Never stain in the sun; wait for a cloudy day with no rain for at least 48 hrs. If it's been cleaned well, blow deck off with yard blower right before you do it. I like to do mine in mid-May, AFTER the tree pollen and maple whirlies and such have all come and gone. Use a low-nap roller or a brush. I put my 4" roller ( or  cut a standard roller cover in half) on an aluminum extension handle, fill the pan half-full of stain, roll excess off good on pan tray, and "walk" it forward on half of board slowly, overhanging edge, slowly, then back all the way back on other board half.   Are you using an actual "stain", or preservative with a stain? There are transparent preservatives that have no stain, semi-transparent with stain (as in "cedar" colored semi-transparent stain, which is what I use)  and stains with preservatives. Keep in mind, whatever you pick will be  darker after it is put on. I do not care for the new "water-based" stains/preservatives that are out there right now, if you've used an oil based preservative in the past on it, (most have linseed oil in them) they will not sink in well, or will not work at all. Just had a friend call me in tears last year, she had spent a ton of money on a 5 gal pail of stain (which would covers one HE** of a lot of deck or decks) because the dork at some Home Improvement place had told her "Yes, this is oil based stain"....which I told her to make SURE she gets, as that's what we had been putting on her deck. Anyway, she had starting rolling it on, and it was all tiny bubbles just sitting there....would wipe right off. Went and took one look, and told her it was water based. "No, it's not...he assured me". Right. Pointed to ingrediants on her $180 pail of "stain"......" a water-based latex mix"...we'll leave it at that. Never knew a cute female could swear like that. I would guess that's why yours peeled off. If it's prepped right, it's wood, it's dry, and it's an oil based stain, that wood will suck it in  like a sponge...which is exactly what you want. Lot of good ones out there; just make sure you read the label on the can, not what  Waldo the sales pup tells ya. Good luck. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not necessary. Just make sure it is dried pit before you do it again.

If the stain has resins in it to form a film finish then it is important to do all sides of the board or the untreated sides will take in moisture and that will cause the finish to fail from underneath.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not that it matters at this point but there is no mill glaze, it's just raw cedar.  No need to sand either.

Bottom line is staining decks is harder than any commercial makes it sound.  The main problem is the horizontal surfaces and the weather they receive.  I think your best option is as Reb said a semi-transparent oil stain.  Still shows the wood grain but you need some pigment.  Solid may be better but most don't want a painted deck.   Plan on doing it every two years no matter what.  You may get lucky and get longer.  At the cabin I use the super expensive oil stain and it still wants to peel.  There is a lot of sand and that gets tracked onto the deck and with people and three dogs that's a lot of abrasive stuff going on.

Also, did you shovel your deck in the Winter?   A metal edge or snow blower edge can help starting to peel stain.  Once it starts you're screwed.   My first deck I made a long time ago I was so into it that I lugged the snowblower onto it in the Winter and blew the snow off...it also peeled the stain.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
32 minutes ago, smurfy said:

maintence free deck works for me!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I agree, It may cost more up front, but in the long run you come out way ahead. I know this doesn't help you Snagger, so I'll leave the refinishing up to the guys that know what they are talking about. Good luck!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  Don't use the same product you used the 1st time.  Deck stain comes in two types. One that sits on the surface and one that penetrates into the wood.  Guess which one you used the 1st time.  Never use that on a new deck and if you got it all off by pressure washing your lucky.

 The pressure washer is going to raise the grain or more like rip up the surface.  Unless your removing peeling paint, in the future use a deck cleaner and a stiff brush to clean the deck before staining. You'll be surprised how well that works. 

Tom7227 and JeremyCampbell like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 4/22/2016 at 7:34 AM, Surface Tension said:

  Don't use the same product you used the 1st time.  Deck stain comes in two types. One that sits on the surface and one that penetrates into the wood.  Guess which one you used the 1st time.  Never use that on a new deck and if you got it all off by pressure washing your lucky.

 The pressure washer is going to raise the grain or more like rip up the surface.  Unless your removing peeling paint, in the future use a deck cleaner and a stiff brush to clean the deck before staining. You'll be surprised how well that works. 

Good tip

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now



  • Posts

    •   No expert here either but I've talked to a couple.    Would your new, expanded slab be conducive to making the addition another zone or zones?  You could maybe run that expansion off different lines from the manifold above the slab so you don't have to route and pour over seams.   Definitely insulate below with GOOD insulation.  As mentioned, heat doesn't really rise the way we think it does; it moves to the cold and the earth will soak it up.   Heating your loop would be cheapest with a natural gas fired boiler, propane second.  Geothermal is expensive to put in so your payback on a new system is long.  Air source heat pumps are great until it gets really cold.  In the end, radiant in floor is the most efficient way to heat, but yes, it's slow to respond.  But if your toes are warm, you will be too.
    • I appreciate the response, I take nothing personally and didn't mean to be snippy in my reply. There are a lot of great comments on here and I will keep you posted on what I decide. Thanks again. 
    • Ice is quickly thinning on those northern lakes that still have ice with dangerous conditions on most lakes. The Wisconsin River is now open even in its northern stretches, but ice chucks can be seen melting along the river's edge. The lower Wisconsin River has finally dropped to near normal levels. Some walleye and brown trout are being caught on the Menominee River both trolling and angling from shore. Low water and cool water temperatures slowed the walleye run so far on the Oconto River. Anglers along the Wolf River have been starting to catch walleyes. A few sturgeon have been seen along the Wolf River, but warmer temperatures are needed for the sturgeon to start their annual spring spawning run. Walleye and sauger action on the Wisconsin River and Lake Wisconsin is slowly picking up.The steelhead season opened on the lower stretch of the Brule River last weekend and anglers reported good successPhoto Credit: DNRSpring steelhead fishing opened last Saturday for the lower stretch of the Brule River and there were lots of fishermen and fisherwomen on the river many who had a successful opener. .
    • I apologize if that came out wrong. The idea might very well be the best route to go. It's just that over the past 25 years or so I have seen many attempts to save a dollar that cost a buck and a half to do lol.    Here are my two cents. If you have a slab and you want to pour on top of it while keeping the same footprint that sounds pretty doable and could probably save some money if you don't have to change drain lines, run water, heat runs, electrical etc into the slab.   If you intend to tie into the existing slab and run zones of pex across the joint and have the new and old floors end up at the same elevation it still can be done. Some contractors will not want to mess with tying into and raising the elevation of the slabs and will prefer to start from scratch especially if you as the homeowner want them to warranty the finished product.  The critical thing would be to use enough rebar drilled into the old slab and have enough compaction and sufficient footings to make sure the slabs stay where they are without settling. That would make all kinds of problems with the pex.    Hopefully that response came across better.
    • It'll be interesting to see if the team plays a little harder in front of a different goalie. 
    • Hawg, I'm with you on this one !
    • Check and see if you have a video output on you device. You may be able to record to a digital device.
    • Just use plain old spray paint in a can. I've done it many many times and seems to stick really nice. Nothing special either I can't even tell you the brand because I have no clue. But as mentioned doing 2-3 light coats helps.
    • no expert here, but heat doesn't rise. heat radiates in the direction of least resistance (R value). warm air or water rises because it is less dense than colder air or water.  If you don't insulate you will be heating the ground under your cabin and the earth is a very large heat sink $$$. get some info from an expert in the radiant field as far as tube diameter, spacing, water temp, manifolds, length of runs, and so on. it varies on amount of windows (solar) ceiling height and room type (bed, bath, living area,  storage etc.). once you pour over the tubing you get to live with it. I did my own Home 15 years ago and got some good advise (wish I would have taken it all)
    • Sonar works from above, cameras need to be submerged. What am I missing here?
  • Our Sponsors