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Correct Tool?


MJBaldwin

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Hello there, I made this DIY "Farmhouse" table for my wife this past weekend. It was just made out of basic 2x8 lumber. On a couple of the pieces that I got it almost looked like a metal screen got embedded into it. I am wondering if i should get a handheld electric planer or if i should just get a belt sander to get this off. I tried my orbital sander but didn't take off enough..
 

Thoughts??

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MJ-  I've made a lot of tables.  The belt sander will work but you may put kind of a "dip" in that spot of the tabletop.  Usually spots like that are only noticed by the guy that makes the dip with the sander.

Depending on the finish you may not notice it, especially if it's a penetrating oil finish vs poly.  Either way it's all good since you made it yourself.  A good attitude and some tolerant pride goes along way.

You may or may not end up with some other cracking issues and I'd bet you won't notice til the Winter months when your house may get dry or drier than the non heating months.  I believe that lumber is kiln dried to 19% or so and normal kiln dried hardwoods for furniture are 6-8%.  

Don't let any of these things buzz kill your efforts.  It's a good project, makes the wife happy, and for the price of tables are at stores saves you a ton of money.  Good work!  Post a photo if you have one.  

I wouldn't recommend the handheld planer btw.  That pine should be soft enough to get it out with a belt sander or more time, heavier grit and patience with the orbital.

Edited by leechlake
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Leech,

Thanks for the input! I really appreciate it I was leaning more towards the belt sander with heavier grit paper.

What type of finish would you recommend? I have read a few different things on this some say to use an oil and rub in other say poly... Also would you suggest the pre-stain condition?

My plan was to use poly, I have a kid that is hard on the table so I want my most durable option?!

I would agree with you there might be a few imperfections that only "I" notice so that's OK as long as my wife is happy about the finished product and the cost is MUCH LESS than a furniture store

I will post pictures sometime soon!

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I might make one suggestion. When I first started woodworking I used a belt sander to flatten and remove defects in table tops and desk tops. You need to be careful with that softwood that you don't gouge it too deep. I might suggest first sanding the whole top in the direction of one corner to the other  and then the other corner to corner, then lengthwise. Use a gentle touch. Then finish up with a random orbit sander after you have the belt sanding done to your satisfaction. 

Looking forward to seeing the pics.

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On April 6, 2016 at 8:23 AM, MJBaldwin said:

Leech,

Thanks for the input! I really appreciate it I was leaning more towards the belt sander with heavier grit paper.

What type of finish would you recommend? I have read a few different things on this some say to use an oil and rub in other say poly... Also would you suggest the pre-stain condition?

My plan was to use poly, I have a kid that is hard on the table so I want my most durable option?!

I would agree with you there might be a few imperfections that only "I" notice so that's OK as long as my wife is happy about the finished product and the cost is MUCH LESS than a furniture store

I will post pictures sometime soon!

I'm not an expert so anyone can correct me if I'm wrong.  I would not use a pre stain conditioner.  Many times they are a diluted form of something so you may as well put some mineral spirits in poly as a first coat.  One other thing is that the wood finish maintains the softness/hardness level of the specie used (which I'd want in Pine/Spruce/Fir which you have)unless you use that uber thick bar goop.  We have hickory and American Cherry floors in our house both poly.  Hickory is scratches and the cherry has scratches in  it, many.  Oil based will over time darken/yellow the table due to the UV light.  Water based makes it harder to make it smooth over oil.

I'd suggest one of two items.  Watco Danish Oil which is Varnish and some other oils.  That will give the hand rubbed look and it's a piece of cake to apply.  Easter morning I sanded the tops of our cherry nightstands and about thirty minutes before we were leaving I put a few "coats" of it on with a rag and I was done.

Oil based Poly, which it sounds like you want to use, in Semi-gloss or gloss.  Just follow directions on the can.  The poly will take the heat of a warmer plate better I believe.  Do a little research.  I'd use oil poly on a kitchen table frankly.

Finally, be in a patient mood when you finish the items you've worked on.  I've screwed up plenty.  Especially on a table the top is so easy and then when you are doing the legs and skirt boards etc it's more of a hassle.  Each coat won't take long but if you aren't super patient have your wife spell you a bit if need be.  Good luck and send anymore questions but that should get you on your way.

Finishing stuff is just like anything else.  You get better with experience, I'm better at fishing at 48 than I was at 8.  But I was cuter at 8 :)

Btw- I'm thinking about making a table like you made out of sappy walnut.  It's a cool looking table.

 

 

Edited by leechlake
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The more time you take and the more coats you put on the more durable your table top will be.  45 years ago I redid an oak table and diluted the product I used with whatever the can said to use.  It was so long ago I can't remember what it was.  But the first coat just disappeared.  I worked it up and ended up with the last couple of coats being full strength.  I am sitting at the table today and I have only touched it up once and it looks great. 

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Thanks for the input. My plan was semi gloss oil-based poly...I used this on a picnic table that i made for my son that sits out in the summer and it has held up great. Although that was just cedar not stained..

Big question is temperatures right now its around 40-45 during the day but at night it dips down into the 30's right now... I am wondering if i would still be able to apply the stain this weekend. heard it is suppose to warm up before next weekend when i plan on applying the poly.. Just don't want to screw it up but on the same hand want it done:)

No heated garage and don't want to do it in the house

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There would be a number of correct tools, it just depends on what type of woodworker you fall under.

You could run the boards through a planer.  What Norm would use.
  You could use a belt sander.   What most DYIers would use.

Or you could use a hand plane. What old time craftsman would use.

When you say farm table I'm thinking mineral oil or shellac.

If you want the look of liquid glass multiple coats of poly. Steel wool between coats

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Wait till it stops freezing at night.The stuff needs to cure.Just because it drys in the sun doesn't mean the whole drying process is completed.I've had my own projects fail before due to freezing or near freezing temps at night.

Btw..The product you are using will have a description of best temperature, application instructions, drying time etc.Take a glance at it.There might be some other info you may need to know

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6 hours ago, JeremyCampbell said:

Btw..The product you are using will have a description of best temperature, application instructions, drying time etc.Take a glance at it.There might be some other info you may need to know

Whoa, Whoa, Whoa.   Read directions?  Are you kidding me?

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I agree Tom7227, I am a no directions kind of guy here... Just an update I took the advice and I held off on staining. Although today is supposedly the turn-around day on the weather. I bought some pre-stain and thought  I would give that a try. I plan on staining it tonight and letting that sit for a few days. Then I will start the poly (Minwax Helmsman Semi-Gloss)

Ill try to post a few pictures after the stain is on!

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