Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .

New Ice House Frame

Recommended Posts

16 hours ago, papadarv said:

Just a tidbit of information:

Federal and State laws state "Small Mobile Living Space" i.e. trailers, RV", Wheel Houses etc. need egress exit door access. Egress exit means door needs to open in the direction of exit. Its listed under Fire safety. That means they must open to the outside. (Every home also needs at least 1 egress door which are most garage doors.)

I built a DIY 6.5x12 V front wheel house 2 years ago, used a "house" door - big mistake - warping, expansion, trailer twist, all caused the door not to shut or open. I replaced it last summer with a Steel Framed RV/Travel trailer door. They all come with a tempered frosted window in case someone needs to get in. You can find them used at RV dealers. Egress door is why every RV, Trailer, Wheel House have outside opening doors.

As stated in some reply's the foam on the bottom will be an issue as it will freeze to the ice. Almost every commercial built Wheel House uses high density (pink poly) 1/2 or 3/4" sandwiched between 2 sheets of plywood inside the house. I put plywood on the bottom of mine with insulation in-between, big mistake. At -20 (often happens at Devils Lake) the bottom freezes in the center of the house. Very difficult to get it off the ice. I am changing mine this summer.

It looks like your using a single cable from your 1500# wench through one pulley to the spring. Some part of it will most likely break after a few uses. Most commercial wheel house use a double or quad pulley system on the wheels. Find a recent built Ice Castle, Yetti, Cabin and look at the wheel wench/pulley/cable system. I also modified mine last summer, major improvement and my house fully loaded is only 1740#. You may also want to increase the weight of the wench. Even if you use a powered ATV wench, add the pulleys.

Always lift the wheels before lifting the tongue. The 500" tongue weight is dependent on rocking on the axel. And keep your feet away from under the tongue and your head, arms, hands to the side when turning the crank. When that cable breaks, it will sever body parts.

If you decide to use non-vented heat, plan to have your door and widows freeze shut on next use. Propane heat produces an unbelievable amount of moisture and is advisable to vent it outside. Put some protection under the outside heat exhaust as there will be a large frozen ice cycle formed under the exhaust.

Two essential tools on the ice, a 6' Crow Bar and a 4 ton hydraulic jack. (black jack style). A crow bar is a 1 1/4" steel shaft 6' long with one ground to a flat. Every farmer has one they use to pry things up and apart. Also take a few cut ends of your wood framing 1 foot long with you. They really come in handy on the ice.

Grease your axel's frequently as steel on steel will rust. Last fall there were many threads on another forum about Ice Castles not going down because the wheel axels were rusted together. I also had the problem last fall but was able to overcome the rust frozen axels. I plan to modify mine this summer with a thin layer of copper around the axel shaft.

Your house is looking great, excellent job. Just thought I would share some experience I have had with mine.

The foam on the bottom won't be an issue, whether spray foam or board foam, so long as it's closed cell. Closed cell won't absorb any water, so won't freeze. 

Open cell spray foam, or that cheap white foam will freeze. 

The reason your house is freezing in the middle is because that plywood on the bottom is absorbing water, which I suspect you've figured out. 

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, mattlinster said:

It worked awesome I would highly recommend them don't waste your money on a pro.

This is an interesting comment.  As Hawg mentioned, I'll be curious to see how many you end up using, and your total end cost.  I've done bids and math on this many times in the last 7-8 years, and for a complete house Froth Paks are double what a pro would charge.  My new 8x21 is bid out right now at $1,000 for 2" in all (5) walls, roof, and floor=1,568 b.f., or (3) of the big 620's= $1,950.  For a floor, or a single area, the small Froth Pak would be about the same.  Have you found something drastically different than me?

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

The guy that did my floor quoted me 900 to do the whole thing and then after he did the floor he charged me 275 so that's why I decided to do it myself and I wasn't really happy with his work. If I was sure if the quality of work and I could have it done for $1000 I would definitely have it done. I think I can do the rest with two more froth paks or I might just get a 600.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎3‎/‎12‎/‎2016 at 3:06 AM, mattlinster said:
On ‎3‎/‎12‎/‎2016 at 3:06 AM, mattlinster said:

Minnesota law states

Subd. 3. Door must open from outside. A person may not use a dark house or fish house unless the door is constructed so that it can be opened from the outside when it is in use. .  

And one thing I am sure of is sandwiching foam between plywood in your floor is a horrible idea it will seal in moisture and rot your floor that's why all commercial houses are spray foamed from underneath.

Your stated Minnesota law is from the MN Fishing Regulations page 60. Door must open from outside and is part of the MN fishing regulations allowing a DNR Officer entry to an occupied fish house at any time without a warrant. Vehicle registration is covered under the U.S. Department of Labor Occupational Safety & Health Administration and State Statutes. May not hurt to review the statutes before you apply for your vehicle license.


The only horrible idea I know concerning wood is using Standard Grade dimensioned or sheet lumber in areas on or close to ground, water or moisture. This would include the floor and the wall bottom plate in a Wheel Fish House as those pieces of wood would be in contact or close proximity of water/moisture when on the ice. We cut large holes in the floor and attach metal siding exposing the edge of the sheet lumber and bottom plate to the moisture and water. Pressure Treated AC2, ACQ, MCP, etc. with mold and mildew inhibitors and a 25 year rot warranty are essential in these areas to avoid rot. And by the way, Ice Castle used pressure treated sandwiched plywood over Extruded Polystyrene Foam flooring up and until the 2015/2016 fishing season. Yetti’s all aluminum house used closed cell foam for many years as stated in their advertisement, adds significant structural strength, most other manufactures only recently went to the foam process.


I do wish you the best of luck with your wheel wench and cable. I did not have a great experience until I added heavier cable and pulleys.


I’m not trying to be mean or degrading, the work you have done on your house is commendable and outstanding. Just wish someone had clued me in on some of the pitfalls building a wheel house. 


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok I understand that you are trying to give advice to help but your statement that foam under my house would be a problem and that it would freeze and then you say that everyone is using it now is a total contradiction ther is a reason why every one switched because it is a superior practice.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, papadarv said:

Foam is super a application. Looks like yours protrudes below frame and will contact ice.

a quick sand or grind will fix that.  A little bit wont hurt and a lot wont probably hurt for long as it would likely get scraped down by the ice.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I do have quite a bit of polishing before it goes on the ice and trimming the foam is on the list for sure I will be using it as a bunkhouse this summer at my camper in Devils Lake and that will give me more time to work on it on windy days..

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hers is a little update I have been working on my house off and on I finished the top bunk tonight and I will be doing the bottom couch/bunk tomorrow.I have all the 110v wiring and lights done I have to install the 12v lights still. I am looking for a 12 volt utility plugin that will go beside a duplex and I am having a hard time finding one. If anyone picks up the knotty pine trim and save make sure you get a bunch extra I had a few packs that I couldn't use a single full piece. Some packs are fine but you need to be careful picking them out next time I am going to use the premium but it sure is hard to pass up 6 dollars a pack. I plan on using car siding for the counter tops it looks pretty cool  so far I just have a couple of pieces laying on top of the one wheel well I will just put a bunch of coats of polyurethane on them. Also I gave up on the froth packs it was uneven and messy I finnished with pink foam board it was cheaper and only took a few hours to do the rest of the house I don't think I will spray foam again other than the under side of the house I will always spray that.










Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Posts

    • You heard wrong and he left on his own, multiple times....
    • I have been adding a little equipment to my butchering hobby every year and this year I am going to add a bandsaw to the mix.  On the WWW there are a bunch of them in the 280-450 range that all look like rebranded clones of each other.    Then, from there it looks like the next jump is the Rikon/grizzly model that has bearing guides, a better blade and it looks like a better fit and finish for 650- 800 depending on the retailer. Does anyone have any experience with either of these types or anything similar?  I'm not going to spend the dollars to get a commercial model.     
    • Ya its been a long day. I don't know if I'm a puss or what but I havent even been able to eat today. Never lost a deer before. Hopefully never again. Worst part is I don't know what went wrong I would make exact same shot again.
    • Awesome thank you  
    • Sorry Charlie.  Way I heard it, the lords didn't like him having a plug for his sight in his .sig so he moved on, like many of the cooking folks did to another place.   I am there too, so come on over....  Just leave the politics here.  
    • Gee Dave, you are sure a  believer in the overprotective government.   I bet you cook all your eggs hard, and your chicken to 165.  You need to read up on pasteurization... It's a time and temperature thing. 
    • Reinhardt's skin was about as thick as sausage casing, it was after Obama got re-elected and the realization that he couldn't howl from his deer stand after Romney's victory. That's when he left, so it's been a while. He was a good dude with a lot of experience in a variety of things. A lot of folks are missed around these parts.  
    • Yeah, I think the first time was after too many people made fun of Michelle Bachmann.  Too bad. He had some great old school knowledge of sausages and butchering in general. 
    • I thought he just got mad and took his ball and went home? Didn't he do that at least a time or 2? I do miss Reinhardt though....
    • Check his web sight which caused him to get expelled from HSO many moons ago.... It has all his recipes and info on it.   www dot sausage heaven outdoors dot com   with a http:// and some deleted spaces you will be golden. 
  • Our Sponsors