Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Fish House Frame Coatings


travlingypsy

Recommended Posts

I just ordered a new frame to start another build and I am looking for ideas/ thoughts/ suggestions and outcomes of all ways to prevent rust of frame. The last two houses I build both had powder coated frames and they both chipped and rusted. I just want to get ideas on what ppl have tried and tested.

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it was me and your frame is bare metal, I would get some POR15 primer and thier metal cleaner and follow the directions. After prepping the frame per directions I would let the frame sit outside for a few days and let it flash rust. POR15 sticks to rust better then clean steal and the rust will be stopped in its tracks once it's covered. Put 2 coats of POR15 on the frame and while the last coat is still drying spray it with AL'S liner. Raptor liner would be exceptable too. I wouldn't worry about the spray lining the spots you won't see all that much because the POR15 is plenty good for that it's just not UV stable so as long as it's out of sun light your OK.

Guys might be having luck with the cheaper roll on liners but most of them have no UV stabilizer in them so if you want it to still look shinny new years down the road you need a quality liner so with UV stabilizers in it so it doesn't turn dull and grayish.

Por15 products are so tuff and rust proof that you really wouldn't even need to use a spray liner if you didn't want to, you could just get a POR15 topcoat called Hardnose for the UV protection. I personally like the look of the spray lined frame though.

I've been in autobody for almost 20 years now and I will tell you this is the best system hands down, other then getting the frame galvanized.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had my frame hot dipped galvanized. This coats the steel inside and out so it will never rust. It's more work making sure you get the proper venting holes for the galvanizing process but IMO well worth it. After that there is no prep needed as long as the steel isn't severely rusty. They will first dip in an acid wash to prep the steel. The cost of my 6-1/2' x 14-1/2' frame was just over $200 but that was along with other parts at work. I believe they have a minimum of $300 but you could quickly have close to that in other products you coat the frame with and not have close to the same quality. Search "lifetime minimum maintenance frame" and see pics of my completed frame.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anouther vote for POR15. Ive got 2 seasons on mine and aprox 4000 miles with excelent results. Only bad spots I have are where it rubbed on the concrete and one small spot behind each wheel where the rocks off the tires must get around the mud flaps and have chipped it off.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If I did it over it would be POR 15 or galvanized. I'm not sure I would do diamond plate again for the wheel wells because it goes bad fast also. Thinking I'm doing POR 15 over that this summer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I forgot to mention in my earlier post that when I painted mine I had some spots that it dripped on my concrete shop floor, its still there 1.5 years later. Its really good stuff. I used less than 3 quarts to do 2 coats on mine. I also bought their cleaner and prep spray, I have enought left over to do 4 more frames.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've never done that big of an area but I would say 1 to 2 quarts of metal prep and a gallon and a quart of POR15 if brushing it on. This might be on the high end but better then running out half way. NAPA sells it so buy it in quarts that way you could return the unused.

There is also a metal cleaner that should be use to get the oils off the metal first.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

POR 15 is sold at NAPA….so its by the paint products?

Its behind the counter here in North Branch but im not sure if they carry the cleaner or prep spray. Welle Auto supply in Blaine has it all and it was $5 a quart cheaper on the POR15. Is anouther $5-$10 cheaper on E------Bay.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We're building one right now and we sprayed the whole thing with Rustoleum Leak Seal. It put a real nice, thick coat over the whole thing kind of like bed liner. We did some tests on it just to see how durable it is, like scrape it with another piece of metal, and it took quite a bit of effort to get it off. Even ran a grinder with a wire brush on it and was very impressed. It's worth a shot. It's a whole lot cheaper than POR15 although I have no experience working with POR15. It was one option for us but after we saw the price we decided to try this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My next house will be galvanized. I saw a 25 year old house over the weekend with a galvanized frame, without a speck of rust. My powder coated frame looks like garbage after 2 years.

The galvanizing "becomes one" with the metal, so to speak. Everything else is just a coating and can peel, flake, etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used 7/8" holes in all of my tubes. I put them in prior to welding the frame together which made it much easier than it will be on a finished frame. There is two ways to do the venting, either external venting or internal venting. On a finished frame your only option is external venting. I have documentation at work that explains the criteria for the venting that I could email you. I also have a top view drawing of my frame with arrows indicating where I placed the holes. Basically you must assure there will be no air pockets trapped inside the tubular structure during the dipping process or your frame will explode.

full-15983-53459-frame,fishhouse2x3exten

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is this POR15 something I can use on a frame that was painted about 10 years ago and is now peeling and rusting? If so, how would I need to prep? Do I need to strip it down to bare metal?

That is exactly what it is made for. Paint Over Rust, look at their HSOforum. I belive all they would recomend in your case is a wire brush to knock off he loose stuff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After seeing all the post on POR15 I bought a quart to do some touch up on my wheel house frame. I just took a wire brush to the rusty spots to get off the big stuff then painted on 2 thin coats. I cannot believe how well it covered and is tough as nails. Worked so well I did the trailer hitches on all our vehicles and they all look brand new.

Only negative is the can it comes in. Probably the cheapest paint can available. Make sure you have a container ready to store the stuff in after you open it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I finally finished touching up the wheelhouse frame and this stuff is great. One hint is to wrap up your brush in a plastic bag and keep it in the freezer or it will harden even in a jar of paint thinner!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.