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Nils owners


fishinnut_3446

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Bought new last yr.8" 27cc with power point.

Was having trouble with it binding every now/then.

Broke in the motor,ran a tank of gas trough it at 40/1 or 50/1 then mixed with 100/1 Amsoil runs great but still binds, sent head off to Frank for sharpening, ran this yr. 6"-8" of ice still same thing and putting no down pressure. Want to try non PP head, Any thoughts?

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Bought new last yr.8" 27cc with power point.

Was having trouble with it binding every now/then.

Broke in the motor,ran a tank of gas trough it at 40/1 or 50/1 then mixed with 100/1 Amsoil runs great but still binds, sent head off to Frank for sharpening, ran this yr. 6"-8" of ice still same thing and putting no down pressure. Want to try non PP head, Any thoughts?

I am a an ex-jiffy owner & sometimes I still apply pressure, when I am not even a ware. LOL Sometime I have to slightly lift just a tad & then the auger bores through perfectly. I have the Nils 270 PP model. Best auger I have ever used!

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I have experienced some minor binding from time to time, but nothing that would lead me away from the PP. Last weekend I was drilling holes while seated on my wheeler. I rolled along just punching a line of holes to find the right depth and fish. Never turned the auger off or let my feet touch the ground. From the seated position on the wheeler, it would have been almost impossible to apply any downward pressure. The PP did all the work.

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Just ordered one and skipped the power point. Lost a lot of my PMs for some reason so thanks to whoever it was that reccomended Red Rock tackle up in Ely got one at a good price and the service was good too.

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The soft/wet ice we've had puts more load on the powerhead but still it should handle 6-8" of wet ice without binding.

Couple reasons why a blade can bind.

It was aggressive from the factory. I'm able to adjust blades back to factory specs but don't have a lot of room to go outside that. When you do you over compensate and might end up with another undesirable quirk.

Second reason and one I have some control over is a blade might need sharpening and or realignment. That would be a blade that still cuts but drifts off to the side. Normally those would bounce at the bottom of the hole after the pp or leading edge punches through, the head shifts and losses bite and will bounce or catch.

The amount of material taken off a blade to repair it.

Nicks ranging from small to big. They have to be taken out and that is going to change the characteristics of the blade. Nils is blade and mount in one head. The blade/mount might not have been bent but it'll require some fine tuning to its alignment. This might be a quick adjustment of it could take hours. I know what a Nils should cut like and that is where I try and get every blade to.

One other reason is a powerhead not putting out the power.

The 270 is a good match for the 8" Nils but it has to be running at its peak. Good gas, and clean carb. I run 87 from the gas pump with Amzoil 100/1. I've found less powewr and harder starts with higher octane gas.

Removing PPs, I've done it as a last resort to Nils where they or the main blades were damaged and needed them gone to gain full access to the bottom of the blade to be reground. That would be a Nils that is a basket case. Otherwise consider it elective surgery and things can go wrong. If anything PPs that are dull or bent would slow down the drill rate. That aren't necessary but they aren't like a dew claw either.

I just got one in that had the PP removed but didn't remove enough of it. I use an angle grinder but one bad move and the blade can be ruined.

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Thanks for the info. Frank. I've had my blades in to your shop a few years ago and they don't have much time on them since then (so pretty sure they are not dull). They came back sharp and in good condition.

I'm still having trouble with the auger hanging up and not "powering through" like my old one did. When I hold it up in the air and let it hang while I run it, there seems to be a slight wobble in the powerhead like the shaft is bent or something. It is very slight, but more than my Strikemaster (no wobble) which I still have.

I have done the extensive break in, let it warm up a long time, used amsoil, don't push down, etc… just like I've heard about on here for years. Kind of surprised that it hasn't worked that well.

To me, the collar that Nils uses seems very suspect. It doesn't seem to give good alignment no matter how careful I am with the connection and lends itself to wobble. Either that or the blades are too aggressive (as you mentioned), or maybe the shaft came slightly bent from the factory. The thing runs great, but just has never cut that well.

As an aside...The best set up I ever had was with an old Tanaka motor using a Mora 8 inch auger custom welded to a collar by a friend. Lightweight, and fast. This may speak to the power point issue which that blade obviously did not have. Unfortunately, the aluminum motor mounts eventually broke on that old work horse. I have toyed around with trying that set up again with this new motor but haven't gotten around to it yet.

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Scott, about wobble at the coupler.

The allen head bolt goes into the larger hole of the coupler.

Tighten that down with the allen wrench. Next put the nut on and at the same time hold the bolt tight while your tightening the nut.

If you don't back the bolt with allen wrench the bolt will become loose.

That is the most common reason for wobble.

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I have an 8" nils auger with one power point blade and one non power pt blade Id be willing to part with if anyone's looking. I also have a 4" nils auger as well. I liked them both but I generally only fish on river areas that have sand on the ice. Kills blades in a heart beat. The 4" blade is sharp. One of the 8" blades is very sharp one is barely broken in from cabelas and reeeally dull. pm me for info. Admin delete if this isnt ok. Thanks.

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I tried using my cousins Nils 8in with PP when it was brand new 2 years ago and it bound on every hole. We took some video of him drilling with his brand new nils and me drilling with a 2.5hp solo and 10in lazer (not new) and I beat him on every hole. Before the end of the Winter the drill unit broke and was not covered under warranty. Although he drills more holes in one day than most people drill in one season he was very disappointed with the drill unit.

Last week rather than have an expensive half broken auger laying around he put a 8in chipper under the Tanaka and he loves it. No more binding issues and with new blades on the chipper he says it cuts plenty fast enough. The nils PP will be his new mail box holder when the ground thaws this Spring.

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Sorry it's been a while since the issue.

Did end up buying a new non pp head, changing gas and plug and made a WORLD of difference! Lighting fast no bind at all wink

Now have to take time to change heads again and see if the changes make any difference with the pp, Frank said the head may to aggressive from the factory ?

On a side note, That hole cleaner that DTRO had a video of don't work with my Nils, The head must only be 7 7/8" or something !?!?!

Works with the Pro4 though.

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Sorry it's been a while since the issue.

Did end up buying a new non pp head, changing gas and plug and made a WORLD of difference! Lighting fast no bind at all wink

Now have to take time to change heads again and see if the changes make any difference with the pp, Frank said the head may to aggressive from the factory ?

On a side note, That hole cleaner that DTRO had a video of don't work with my Nils, The head must only be 7 7/8" or something !?!?!

Works with the Pro4 though.

Nils augers are awesome! Frank is the man to sharpen those bad boys up too! The Deep freeze one shot skimmer pro's are a great products. When you use a Nils auger you need to grind off just a tad of the one shot skimmer. They make it exactly 8". Other augers are 8 1/4". If you order these from the HSOforum you can order them already ground down.

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