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fish_eat_sleep

Is this a common strikemaster issue?

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I was out drilling this morning with the Solo Magnum, probably 3 years old. Gets a lot of use though, i fish about 4 nights a week, often hole hopping. after the 4th hole this morning the drill started spinning slowly at idle. i couldn't slow or stop the rotation (even by force) without shutting down the engine. It is tough to start now. always spins slow at idle, and it makes an ugly clunking noise when you shut it off. also, the drill locks up when the engine turns off. you cannot spin it by hand either way (even a centimeter) one way or another, completely locked (which could be why it starts hard now).

Anyone seen this before?

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First I have heard of this. Mine is I believe 4 years old and still working like new. Gotta change the blades soon though. Figured it was still cuting well enough to make it through this ice season. I do work with the blades and a file now and then though.

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First I have heard of this. Mine is I believe 4 years old and still working like new. Gotta change the blades soon though. Figured it was still cuting well enough to make it through this ice season. I do work with the blades and a file now and then though.

....OK? confusedconfused

So, actually on the topic you posted about: I have an old (5+ years) SM w/ the 3 hp tecumseh powerhead, and it has always spun while idling;however, I can stop it with my foot (it's hard) or I set it in something so it cannot spin (If I am just starting it to let it run on land) I'm not sure what causes this, but if you find out and it's a cheap fix I'd love to hear it. Your blades (obviously) would have nothing to do with what you described -- I have no idea what the above poster was getting at.

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Sounds like the clutch is having issues releasing .Gear case will have to be taken apart .

TD

+1 had the same thing happen to me and that is exactly what it was. It seems kind of quick for that to happen after 3 years though. It wasn't a cheap fix but once it was done it has run fine.

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All I was saying is that I have not heard of this issue.

Then I said, heck I have not even chaged my blades on my Solo. Just saying I have done nothing to it in the years I have owned it, great auger. Sorry if I confused you Lundguy.

I would agree the clutch in the gear case would more than likely be the issue.

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When i had my strikemaster i ran a ten inch bit for awhile and it was hard on the gear case. I drilled lots of holes and the gears,clutch went out twice on me. just to much torque went to eight inch and had no more problems.

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Mine spins at idle too. Hasn't bothered me enough to do anything about it yet. It starts and runs great though, no weird noises or anything. I can't stop it by grabbing on when it spins, but when it is shut off I can spin the shaft freely like it should.

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i had this problem with mine the bolt back out, it was rubbing on the hub it was only a year old this was last winter .this winter i got one hole drilled that gear in the gear box sheared the rivets would not drill at all this year it is two years old.

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The clutch spring is what i guessed too. Not to familiar with auger repair stuff, does this kind of thing happen more with one brand over another or are most similar in design (SM, jiffy, eskimo). Does $150 for repair including labor sound fair? I assume the the whole gear case would be either replaced or rebuilt (not just the spring), if it was indeed the case.

I suppose upgrading wouldn't be a terrible idea at this time if that $$ is in the right ballpark for repair. In my head, I see popularity of new augers in this order in my area, SM, Eskimo, Jiffy. SM lazer for speed, Eskimo for price, jiffy for HD durability. Does this sound about right?

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