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Vikings_59

Securing new wall to basement concrete floor...

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Hey Guys,

Has anyone secured a green treated floor plate to a concrete floor by only using adhesive? (liquid nails or something similar) in the past I have used concrete nails along with adhesive but the nails never seem to pound very deep into the concrete and the stud pivots on the floor where the nail is.

We are starting to finish our basement and wanted to see if I could get aways with only using adhesive.

Thanks!

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I was actually just wondering the same thing. I am working on refinishing my basement and need to put up a few walls. I would like to avoid nailing into the concrete floor because the floor is covered with asbestos tiles that I would like to avoid disturbing if at all possible.

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When I did this I used adhesive and then shot in some concrete nails with a 22 caliber nail driver. The nails probably do more to keep it in place and tight to the floor.Im sure if you weighted the wood down and kept it in place the adhesive would be just fine. It is amazeingly strong stuff.

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Get a Ramset or borrow one. That's probably your best bet for securing the wall. That's what I did in my basement and it's rock solid. As for going through the asbestos tile, I did that too. The building inspector told me to use some PL400 between the tile and the green floor plate. That kept everything in place and secure so that there was minimal disturbance of the asbestos tile. I shot through those without any issues. All of my walls are holding up perfectly.

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Tapcons? Do the nails that you use in a nail gun stand up to the green treated? I thought there was a requirement for special nails when building a deck.

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When I did this I used adhesive and then shot in some concrete nails with a 22 caliber nail driver. The nails probably do more to keep it in place and tight to the floor.Im sure if you weighted the wood down and kept it in place the adhesive would be just fine. It is amazeingly strong stuff.
Yessiree the charge loaded pin hold very well,the glue is the main ingredient to make the application fairly permanent.

Tom722 if your using pins they are mostly stainless steel,Hard to penetrate concrete.tapcons work the best with adhesive thats the #1 holddown.

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I like the .22 nailers.

Along with some adhesive.

And I just build the walls tall enough that they are super tight, holding the adhesive while its drying.

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Quick question - what if you have wirsbo/tube in the slab? Just adhesive alone? Or nails but only set them slightly? thnx

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If I was going to buy a nail gun I would buy one that has a trigger. I have one that you hit with a hammer and there are many times where it misfires or that it is tough to get a good hit on the head. I have cleaned the thing a number of times and it still misfires probably about 15% of the time.

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I really would suggest nailing and gluing the plate to the floor. You only need to nail every couple feet. Then you know for sure it won't go anywhere.

After using one of those powder actuated nailers that you hit with a hammer for a couple years, I gave up on it and bought one with a trigger. The hammer type works 90% of the time if you are shooting straight down and hit it absolutely square. But shooting into a wall or overhead...forget it!

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What is wrong with just glue, especially since the top plates will be anchored to the floor joists, and presumably each stud cut to fit snug? I am in the same process and I am only using construction adhesive.

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Just use some hand driven cut masonry nails and a liberal amount of construction adhesive. Nails only need to penetrate about 1/2" or so and will hold it in place until the adhesive sets up. The wall won't go anywhere. We have the powder actuated guns at work here, but the only time we use them in for shooting into steel beams. Hand drives seem to work just fine for concrete.

If you have wirsbo I would just use the adhesive and cut your studs so they fit tight to hold it in place, unless you know for a fact the tubing is installed so that there is none where the walls will be. We always lay out the walls before the tubing goes in so that we can nail them down without worrying.

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What is wrong with just glue, especially since the top plates will be anchored to the floor joists, and presumably each stud cut to fit snug? I am in the same process and I am only using construction adhesive.

Because I'm conservative grin I want to be absolutely sure nothing moves if I accidently bang the wall; it could crack sheetrock joints. Also that bottom and top plate will shrink as they dry out, so in a year it may not be as tight as it was when first installed. After better than 40 years as an architect, I saw too many things go wrong that I never would have expected.

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Great point about the Wirsbo. I have infloor heat and would hate to bust a tube with a nail. I will try the Adhesive. I plan putting weights on top of the plates to ensure a strong bond while drying. Ill test the strength and post any issues I have.

Thanks guys.

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wonder if i did someting wrong, only used concrete anchor bolts for bottom plates like every 4 feet. was a major pita drilling the holds but once pounded in and bolted down they dont budge

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What is wrong with just glue, especially since the top plates will be anchored to the floor joists, and presumably each stud cut to fit snug? I am in the same process and I am only using construction adhesive.

not yet mentioned in this thread...if you plan to have carpet installed in any areas, you want the walls anchored WELL. Can't tell you how many walls I've pushed around over the years because guys didn't anchor them properly. There are a few tricks we can use in some situations, but typically a power stretcher puts a LOT of force on the walls, and adhesive may or may not do the job.

Sure, there are alternative ways to install carpet, but they all involve compromise or increased cost...better to just seucre the walls properly in the first place.

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I use tapcons or redheads to secure the wall. Treated lumber is notorious for bend green and twisting or bowing as it dries and I don't want to have to think about how to go back and fix a wall down the road when it is simple to do it right the first time and rest easy.

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I use tapcons or redheads to secure the wall. Treated lumber is notorious for bend green and twisting or bowing as it dries and I don't want to have to think about how to go back and fix a wall down the road when it is simple to do it right the first time and rest easy.

Agreed

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If you have in floor heat cut and fit the plates, then glue the bottom and then use your studs to put pressure on the glue.

If you are planning on using fasteners permagrip nails are the best. Nothing else comes close to the strength and holding power. They are not available at your local $hitbox stores (menards,lowes,home dumpot). Go to a real lumber yard and you can get them.

Don't use the .22 gun nails or tapcons. They just don't hold in the long run.

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I am not sure how a permagrip nail would have more holding power than a properly installed tapcon and they sure as heck don't hold a candle to a redhead. JMHO.

Its called sheer strength the nail has a larger diameter than the screw. Also they don't work loose or strip like the tapcons .

I have used them all extensively now I just use the best.

I do this for a living not just a diy and its not just my humble opinion its years of experience.

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