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jnwb

Help me Lazer pro or Strikelite

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I would like to here from guys how have ran both. I thought I wanted the strikelite2 but have now heard very good things anout the solo. If you have a solo have you tried amsoil saber at 100 to 1? If so how is the smoke and smell level. Is the strikelite worth the extra 50 bucks? Which do you think is the most reliable? I will be buying in 2 days and want to make the wright choice. I fish both in a perm redrilling holes and in a portable. Probably drill 15 holes a day and fish 3 days a week.

Thank You

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Since you will be redriling partially frozen holes in a perm, I would recomend the Mag, not the Lazer shaver. You will go through too many sets of blades with the shavers.

One session of reopening old holes will pretty much takes 50% out of the Lazer blades.

The Mag chipper system will do both, very well.

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If your only drilling 15 holes a day that means you don't move all that much. I would be going with an electric.

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The solo is going to be a lot more durable for you compared to the strike lite. But both are great engines. I went through this process last season and went with the solo. It is an awesome engine. If I only drilled about 15 holes per day I would go with the electric.

Jason Erlandson

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The solo is going to be a lot more durable for you compared to the strike lite. But both are great engines. I went through this process last season and went with the solo. It is an awesome engine. If I only drilled about 15 holes per day I would go with the electric.

Jason Erlandson

Not sure I agree with this one here. I have the original strike lite and my only complaint was the auger freezing. That Robin powerhead is awesome and light. I also like the 4 stroke for not having to mix the gas and dealing with the smoke. That 2 stroke smell makes me feel sick.

I'm sure the Solo is awesome, but the Robin 4 stroke will be just as dependable. You can't really go wrong, but those lazer blades are not made to re-open holes. get the chipper blade if you will be doing any of that.

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Thank you for the input. I do not want an electric. I think in the long run it will cost more to own. At least with my experince with small batteries is they only last about 2 years before they need to be replaced. They are not cheap to replace. There are also some days where I drill 30 plus holes. I was just putting an average week to start with. Chode does your strikelite start well when it has been in 0 degrees for a few hours? I was thinking the 4 stroke would last longer than the 2 stroke. Now that they have a metal auger I would think they are good. But, with my experience the 2 stoke starts better in the cold.

Again Thank you all for the input this is a hard choice for me being I will have it for a long time and want to choose the right one.

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I always here people saying that you can't reopen holes with laser blades. I do it all the time. It may not be quite as forgiving as the chipper for reopening but isn't really difficult at all. If the holes are shrunk in diameter but not froze over it is difficult but if they have froze over at all I have no problem. I've had a chipper for over 10 years and would I would never ever go back to one after getting a laser.

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Strikemaster may swap you your new unused lazer bit for a chipper bit. Strikelite with chipper bit would be nice for inside the shack.

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What I meant by durable is that with the Solo you can lay it down any way you would like without the worry of the carbs getting messed up or gas leaking somewhere it shouldn't. Both are great engines. I have some buddies that have drilled over 5000 holes with the Strike Lite. No problems at all. After using the Solo I am glad I chose the one I did.

Jason Erlandson

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I never have a problem with the cold. It starts up right away and then I usually set it down for a couple minutes while I am getting prepared, by that time it is warm enough to get going.

I am very impressed with the powerhead, its the old composite flighting trapping snow and freezing is my only disappointment. I love that quiet little Robin engine.

And yes, you do need to be mindful which way you set your auger down, but I have never had a problem with it. Oh you do have to change the oil too, half a $1 jar every year.

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Thank you, I am leaning towards the Strikelite2 unless someone can really give me a reason not to.

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Theyre both great augers and you'll love them both. The advantages of the 4 stroke were worth it to me. Would I have been happy with a solo, probably; but I am very happy with my 4 stroke.

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I purchased a Strike-Lite last season and I've heard people complain about the composite auger freezing. I was told by a member of the Strikemaster pro-staff that you need to keep the auger spinning the entire way out of the hole. When I'm done drilling a hole in very cold weather I throttle it and the water flies off the auger. Never had one problem with freezing and I fish at least three days per week during the ice season.

The powerhead is very nice. One benefit that nobody really mentions is that one tank of gas lasts a long time. I fill mine up before a weekend trip and can drill a ton of holes without worrying about needing more gas. Great when you're a few miles out on Red or Mille Lacs.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Thank you for the responses. I do know it’s a right of wayband not blockable...except...I seen one coming and did park in the area after work this week.  In a split second she/he turned around and went the other way. My truck would fill the approach but I only had the car that day.—this response is what I’m trying to avoid. knoppers-there was no bank there...there were little dots through the snow that was pulled back onto the driveway. Heck, he was up near the tree line. Wanderer-it’s a small rural area, I’ll be the ... The snow and ice is melting down to the tar today, they drove in it anyway. It’s 130 am and ya...time for jumping. Thanks for all the answers. I don’t feel alone in feeling it’s rude. That helps. 
    • I would think so, it would be no different than parking on the shoulder of the road. my commit was more related to people that put up barriers, to keep others from crossing there approach.
    •   Sounds plausible to me.  Is the thickened footing in your mind the same as pouring the perimeter of the slab thicker?  We did an 8 inch perimeter around the 4 inch slab.
    • Yes. But on a post framed building the only think I ever see is a thickened footing and not a foundation to the frost line. A major benefit of post framing is that you install the posts below the frost line so the need for a concrete foundation below the frost line is not needed. If I am understanding the question correctly. 
    • FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone.   May a person park their own vehicle in their own driveway approach?
    • I think they’re more looking at the footings requirement, aren’t they?  Thus the reason for getting the poles below the frost line?   Its the township’s responsibility to figure this out and you have the right to ask them to cite the code they’re following.   I used to live in Isanti County and dealt with a building inspector from my township on the construction of my detached garage.  Things weren’t very strict to say the least.     We built everything by the current UBC code, so I’d suggest first getting a copy of the current version of that since this building will actually be your home.  Don’t take unnecessary shortcuts to save a few bucks up front.  You’ll eventually regret it.   Reading your plans for the slab, it sounds pretty good.  There are plenty of slab homes out there built the way you describe.  What you don’t want is movement.     I’m not an expert by any means but I think footings on your slab wouldn’t be a bad idea and sinking your poles that deep should be a requirement.  If you don’t do footings, at least pour your slab thicker on the perimeter to hold it better.    Your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) can be more restrictive than code, but not less.  So if it’s defined in the UBC, you have to do at least that much.
    • I’ve personally been on both sides of this.   Used to love getting as much air as possible over driveways but I never understood gunning it on the other side after crossing.  I guess some are just mild adrenaline junkies.    I quit doing that for one, because it’s illegal, and two, not safe if the homeowner happens to be leaving or getting the mail at the time.   Now that I have a posted trail going over my driveway, I find it just rude, obnoxious and irritating to deal with 4 wheelers and sleds gunning it over the gravel and making ruts and eroding my base to the point of it being an expense to either plow and pack the class 5 back in place or spend the money to pave it.  I hate having to bounce over two ruts with my trailers and whatever I’m hauling in them too.   I think that’s the worst part for me.  Either jump it or be mellow on the throttle the entire way over.   I’ve seen trail groomers go around driveways before, making me wonder if that truly is a requirement or they were simply being courteous.  But I agree with knoppers, they should not drag over the driveway.  Maybe they think they’re taking the snow off for ya.  Call the people responsible for the trail and ask them for suggestions.  
    • If you want to get through ice fast and are going to re-tool for it completely, look at a Nils before making your final decision. 
    • I am fully aware of this as are most people.
    • some people are bad apples that give the sport a bad name, I as a snowmobiler have respect for driveways. FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone. trail groomers actually do you a favor by knocking down the bank, to keep it level. unless your groomer was not well trained, they will not groom over your driveway.
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