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Sorgy

Remington Model 7 ----7MM -08

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Guy's,

I have a friend with a 10 year old Rem mdl 7. In the 7MM-08. What are your favorite factory loads? I think he is shooting Rem Core Lockt bullets 140 grains. I have seen some 150 grain loads and several Hornandy 139 grain loads. any experience with any of the above in your 7MM -08?

Does anyone have any reload recipies that they like?

How about gunsmiths in the Metro area that cojuld do a trigger job to lighten up the trigger?

Thanks

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My daughter shoots the Model 7 youth in 7mm-08. We've shot 140-150 gr and she shoots the 140 gr Federal Nosler ballistic tips. Very accurate and bad mojo on deer.

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They are factory loads, (Federal Premium loads). We have 4 different 7mm-08 rifles in our group and so far they shoot everything pretty darn good. Haven't needed to come up with handloads to get them to group.

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We have a Rem Model 7 & a Browning A Bolt Micro and the both run Federal Premiums Nosler Partitions very well. Also have shot the Remington Reduced Recoil rounds too with good sucess. The Model 7 didn't like the Hornadys though.

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Pet loads for 7mm08's:

139 Hornady SP and 50 gr H4350, WW Cases, F210 Primer. ~ 2875 fps from a 20" Model 7.

120 Barnes TSX or 120 Nosler BT and 44 gr R15, WW Cases, F210 Primer. ~ 2950 fps from a 20" M700 Youth, 3075 fps from uncles 26" Savage 14 Euro Classic.

Standard disclaimers apply ... work up the loads, these are near maximum ... yadda yadda yadda.

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1st of all, is that gun for sale? If not I'd like to have the right of 1st refusal. I shoot a Vanguard 20 inch barrel. I replaced the trigger with a 1 1/4 pound Timney. I've had great results from the following:

Factory:

140 Grain Fusion .930 pattern

2802 FPS

Reloads:

130 Speer Boat tail (1624)

41 grains of 4064

CCI 200 primers

Rem brass

.624 pattern

2796 FPS

120 Sierra BT

45.5 H-380

CCI 200 primers

Rem brass

.704 pattern

2797 FPS

I was running out of time to try and improve on these as antelope season drew near. I didn't kill any goats but, two shots....two dead deer at 187 & 235 yards. All recipes were dialed in 2 inches high at 100 yards.

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I was looking into buying a rifle for Joey and was wondering about the 7mm-08 what does it compare to as in other calibers bigger than but smaller than type thing

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A 7mm08 is the ballistic twin of the 7x57 Mauser and is essentially a 270 Win on a short action. It will reach the same velocities as a 270 with a 10 gr lighter bullet. Works very well with barrels down to 20" and that length is incredibly handy in the brush or shooting out of a blind.

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I know I probably said this before somewhere on here but, I say it again. I tossed around the idea of a new caliber for 2 years before I went with the 7mm-08. I did alot of research on the ballistics. I've got .243, .270 and an 06 so that just about covers everything up to belted carts. It was over 25 years since I got a new and just felt the urge. I was flippin a coin between the 08 and .308. I settled on my choice because of bullet weight selection (110 to 175) and exterior ballistics. I will say this; factory ammo is spendy. But, I reload and spend more hours at the range then most people spend in the woods during the season. There are proponents of this caliber who claim it is suitable elk with the correct weight bullet. I can not attest to thoe testimonials. I'd recommend it even as a youth caliber.

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Thanks guys and Paul I have the same cailbers as you and have owned a few others that I wish I still had like the 6mm,257 roberts and a 25-06.

I have a .308 and love it and I think that I will dig more into 7-08 as Joeys gun but he kinda likes the .308 also.

I thinking that the .308 would be the most sensable cause that way not all the differnt ammo to worry about but thats never been a issue with me never enough guns I guess

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I used my fathers old 30.06 for about 20 or so years.

In the last few years I've acquired a couple .270 and a .243.

I thought I would be set for a long time until I kept drifting back to this thread, now I'm looking for just the right 7MM-08.

DARN YOU GUYS!!!!!

It's all good!

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Red:

Whatever you do ... do not, I repeat, DO NOT, even consider (for a second) taking a 700 youth and putting it into a Ti takeoff stock. ESPECIALLY with Talley lightweight mounts and a 2-7 Leupold.

Remember just don't think about it ...

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Red cabin...LOL...I got a kick of that "Darn you guys". I'll say this about chosing a caliber just for conversation sake. Lot of people ask about calibers, and that a good thing but, In my estimation after getting testsmonials a guy should really read , read, and read more. Ken Waters Pet Loads is a fantasic collection of caliber performances. Not only does reading give a guy info on calibers but it gives alittle better insight on ballistics. This way a guy learns how & why a bullet performs the way they do. It's kinda like saying a person knows how to drive a vehicle but, do they know why it moves when ya press on the foot-fed? I'm not saying that it's wrong for a guy to try and buy the license the night before opener or scour the stores the night before looking for ammo and then take a 50 yard shot at a empty beer can ( note: empty) half way thru the opening morning just to make sure his gun "is on". I'm probably more obsessive when it comes perfecting the art of marksmanship.

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Had an M7 in 7/08 some years back that was a real nice rifle. After bedding and some trigger work it was a 3/4 to MOA rifle and that is plenty good enough. Was using a stout load of WW748, WLR primers and a 139 Hornady BTSP.

Had one large deer in a Buffalo county field that was some 300yds away that I ended up passing on due to the 15+mph crosswind, even though I had all of the time in the world and a solid rest to shoot from. Just did not want to take a chance and figured that I could get closer the next day. The deer dressed at 185# after I took it at 75 yds the next afternoon. That 139 Hornady left a golfball sized exit hole on a dead broadside ribcage hit. The deer took 3 or 4 bounds before piling up. Have plenty of long-range shooting titles, but won't take chances shooting animals in a strong wind at distance...far better to get closer.

Shot one other 120# deer with that rifle at about 40 yds and had similar bullet performance. Golfball exit hole and short recovery distance. Nice little cartridge and very capable. Easy to load for to get fine hunting accuracy levels.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Thank you for the responses. I do know it’s a right of wayband not blockable...except...I seen one coming and did park in the area after work this week.  In a split second she/he turned around and went the other way. My truck would fill the approach but I only had the car that day.—this response is what I’m trying to avoid. knoppers-there was no bank there...there were little dots through the snow that was pulled back onto the driveway. Heck, he was up near the tree line. Wanderer-it’s a small rural area, I’ll be the ... The snow and ice is melting down to the tar today, they drove in it anyway. It’s 130 am and ya...time for jumping. Thanks for all the answers. I don’t feel alone in feeling it’s rude. That helps. 
    • I would think so, it would be no different than parking on the shoulder of the road. my commit was more related to people that put up barriers, to keep others from crossing there approach.
    •   Sounds plausible to me.  Is the thickened footing in your mind the same as pouring the perimeter of the slab thicker?  We did an 8 inch perimeter around the 4 inch slab.
    • Yes. But on a post framed building the only think I ever see is a thickened footing and not a foundation to the frost line. A major benefit of post framing is that you install the posts below the frost line so the need for a concrete foundation below the frost line is not needed. If I am understanding the question correctly. 
    • FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone.   May a person park their own vehicle in their own driveway approach?
    • I think they’re more looking at the footings requirement, aren’t they?  Thus the reason for getting the poles below the frost line?   Its the township’s responsibility to figure this out and you have the right to ask them to cite the code they’re following.   I used to live in Isanti County and dealt with a building inspector from my township on the construction of my detached garage.  Things weren’t very strict to say the least.     We built everything by the current UBC code, so I’d suggest first getting a copy of the current version of that since this building will actually be your home.  Don’t take unnecessary shortcuts to save a few bucks up front.  You’ll eventually regret it.   Reading your plans for the slab, it sounds pretty good.  There are plenty of slab homes out there built the way you describe.  What you don’t want is movement.     I’m not an expert by any means but I think footings on your slab wouldn’t be a bad idea and sinking your poles that deep should be a requirement.  If you don’t do footings, at least pour your slab thicker on the perimeter to hold it better.    Your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) can be more restrictive than code, but not less.  So if it’s defined in the UBC, you have to do at least that much.
    • I’ve personally been on both sides of this.   Used to love getting as much air as possible over driveways but I never understood gunning it on the other side after crossing.  I guess some are just mild adrenaline junkies.    I quit doing that for one, because it’s illegal, and two, not safe if the homeowner happens to be leaving or getting the mail at the time.   Now that I have a posted trail going over my driveway, I find it just rude, obnoxious and irritating to deal with 4 wheelers and sleds gunning it over the gravel and making ruts and eroding my base to the point of it being an expense to either plow and pack the class 5 back in place or spend the money to pave it.  I hate having to bounce over two ruts with my trailers and whatever I’m hauling in them too.   I think that’s the worst part for me.  Either jump it or be mellow on the throttle the entire way over.   I’ve seen trail groomers go around driveways before, making me wonder if that truly is a requirement or they were simply being courteous.  But I agree with knoppers, they should not drag over the driveway.  Maybe they think they’re taking the snow off for ya.  Call the people responsible for the trail and ask them for suggestions.  
    • If you want to get through ice fast and are going to re-tool for it completely, look at a Nils before making your final decision. 
    • I am fully aware of this as are most people.
    • some people are bad apples that give the sport a bad name, I as a snowmobiler have respect for driveways. FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone. trail groomers actually do you a favor by knocking down the bank, to keep it level. unless your groomer was not well trained, they will not groom over your driveway.
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