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Neighbor_guy

Shotgunning for 'yotes/Fox

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For me fox and coyote hunting has always been done primarily with a shotgun. (I dont own the right rifle yet wink ) So I have been looking around at options for shotgunning dogs.

In the past I have used "Dead Coyote". My stock was givven to me and I never had to buy the stuff. Its long gone now. So I started looking around and doing some price checking. It is not that hard to guess what I will be shooting.

-Dead Coyote 'T' shot (.21cal) 47 pellets per shell- $40.00/box or $4.00/shot. eek

-#4 Buffered Buck (.24cal) 41 pellest per shell- $6.00/box or about $1.20/shot.

At those prices and considering 35-40yard max range I think I will go with the "industry standard" #4 Buck. For $4 per boom I can not even afford to pattern the stuff on paper.

Has anyone used Black Cloud or BlackCloud Snow Goose loads in BB or BBB? Any success and what kind of ranges did you get. This stuff is not cheap either at about $1.35 a shot but I am just looking for more options, especialy if I end up on a WPA.

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You don't want to use steel for predators. Use the 4 buck or try to find some lead 3in bb's and limit yourself to 40yds

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just pattern your gun with a box of federal premium 4 buck and try a box of Dead Coyote T also i would deffinetly try shooting 4 buck and see how it does if your only shooting 40 yards you dont really need the dead coyote.... just my 2 cents

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I shot a coyote with Black Cloud BBB at 50yds duck hunting this season and he went down no problem. That's all I had in my duck boat...

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I saw #4 buck for a .410 had 5-7 pellets. At that I'll buy the slugs. I had been thinking of what to use, 12Ga.w/buckshot, or my -06 with the lightest load I can find. But the more I think about it the I may go with my 410 shotgun and 2 1/2" slugs.

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Is that a crazy notion, an .06 with the lightest load available? I'm honestly asking because like Jim it may be my only option. Anyone have experience with this?

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I used a .410 to take a fox when I was 17 and first getting into hunting them. 15yards with a .410 slug. He was napping on a gopher mound in the sun. Lets just say it did the job. When it is all you've got, its your only choice.

I think I have settled on the 3" #4 Buffered Buck in 12ga. With any luck I will be using .223 next season, but untill then...

a shotgunning we will go, call in hand. Foxes and 'yotes a running grin

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I don't care at all about pelt damage. Should I just let er rip with my leftover deer rounds (100 grain)?

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I don't care at all about pelt damage. Should I just let er rip with my leftover deer rounds (100 grain)?

why not? your comfortable with the gun, its most likely sighted in from deer season, and you have some excellent longer range capability. fire away.

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shoot that 06 with full metal jackets you will save the pelt and get the shooting distance. plus all the knockdown power you need

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I read somewhere that the reduced recoil loads for the bigger deer calibers work well for varmits. Lighter bullets and less velosity, not as much pelt damage.

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I read somewhere that the reduced recoil loads for the bigger deer calibers work well for varmits. Lighter bullets and less velosity, not as much pelt damage.

How are these rounds priced compared to say a .223?

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I saw that winchester makes a 125gr. for fox & yote shooting. I have seen a 55gr for 30-06 but have not seen them for awhile.

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I'm going to have to investigate the metal jacket thing and the reduced recoil option. I hate having to buy a rifle for yotes when I have a gun I KNOW inside and out.

Jignjim, if memory serves me correctly the 55 grain was call the "accelerator" or something similar to that. I heard (rumored) it was outlawed because law enforcement couldn't get rifling off of those bullets. They were some hot little loads.

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Jigginjim and da_chise, for the 30-06, there is another alternative. The military has an insert that allows the use of .308 rounds in a 30-06. I've recently moved and everythings in a disarray, but I'll try to locate the one I have. It is inserted into the chamber of the '06 on the front of a .308 round, then fireformed and held in place by friction. It's NOT recommended for use in a semi-auto just bolt actions, and I'd suppose singles (If anyone has one of those). When not needed, a removal tool is supplied with the insert and you're back to the '06. Phred52

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Thank you for the responses. I do know it’s a right of wayband not blockable...except...I seen one coming and did park in the area after work this week.  In a split second she/he turned around and went the other way. My truck would fill the approach but I only had the car that day.—this response is what I’m trying to avoid. knoppers-there was no bank there...there were little dots through the snow that was pulled back onto the driveway. Heck, he was up near the tree line. Wanderer-it’s a small rural area, I’ll be the ... The snow and ice is melting down to the tar today, they drove in it anyway. It’s 130 am and ya...time for jumping. Thanks for all the answers. I don’t feel alone in feeling it’s rude. That helps. 
    • I would think so, it would be no different than parking on the shoulder of the road. my commit was more related to people that put up barriers, to keep others from crossing there approach.
    •   Sounds plausible to me.  Is the thickened footing in your mind the same as pouring the perimeter of the slab thicker?  We did an 8 inch perimeter around the 4 inch slab.
    • Yes. But on a post framed building the only think I ever see is a thickened footing and not a foundation to the frost line. A major benefit of post framing is that you install the posts below the frost line so the need for a concrete foundation below the frost line is not needed. If I am understanding the question correctly. 
    • FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone.   May a person park their own vehicle in their own driveway approach?
    • I think they’re more looking at the footings requirement, aren’t they?  Thus the reason for getting the poles below the frost line?   Its the township’s responsibility to figure this out and you have the right to ask them to cite the code they’re following.   I used to live in Isanti County and dealt with a building inspector from my township on the construction of my detached garage.  Things weren’t very strict to say the least.     We built everything by the current UBC code, so I’d suggest first getting a copy of the current version of that since this building will actually be your home.  Don’t take unnecessary shortcuts to save a few bucks up front.  You’ll eventually regret it.   Reading your plans for the slab, it sounds pretty good.  There are plenty of slab homes out there built the way you describe.  What you don’t want is movement.     I’m not an expert by any means but I think footings on your slab wouldn’t be a bad idea and sinking your poles that deep should be a requirement.  If you don’t do footings, at least pour your slab thicker on the perimeter to hold it better.    Your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) can be more restrictive than code, but not less.  So if it’s defined in the UBC, you have to do at least that much.
    • I’ve personally been on both sides of this.   Used to love getting as much air as possible over driveways but I never understood gunning it on the other side after crossing.  I guess some are just mild adrenaline junkies.    I quit doing that for one, because it’s illegal, and two, not safe if the homeowner happens to be leaving or getting the mail at the time.   Now that I have a posted trail going over my driveway, I find it just rude, obnoxious and irritating to deal with 4 wheelers and sleds gunning it over the gravel and making ruts and eroding my base to the point of it being an expense to either plow and pack the class 5 back in place or spend the money to pave it.  I hate having to bounce over two ruts with my trailers and whatever I’m hauling in them too.   I think that’s the worst part for me.  Either jump it or be mellow on the throttle the entire way over.   I’ve seen trail groomers go around driveways before, making me wonder if that truly is a requirement or they were simply being courteous.  But I agree with knoppers, they should not drag over the driveway.  Maybe they think they’re taking the snow off for ya.  Call the people responsible for the trail and ask them for suggestions.  
    • If you want to get through ice fast and are going to re-tool for it completely, look at a Nils before making your final decision. 
    • I am fully aware of this as are most people.
    • some people are bad apples that give the sport a bad name, I as a snowmobiler have respect for driveways. FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone. trail groomers actually do you a favor by knocking down the bank, to keep it level. unless your groomer was not well trained, they will not groom over your driveway.
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