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Powerstroke

Ideas for tires. E-rated but "all-terrains"

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I need some new tires. Mine are at 4/32" and one is 3/32 so its time.

I have an F350 diesel and do some towing so the E-rated tires are a must for me. I'm looking for a more all-terrain tire since I've been stuck 3x in the last year and none of the situations were very tricky. It was purely a traction issue.

I've had BFG AT's before but not on this truck. I'm also looking at the Michelin AT's, but I've looked at the Nitto At;s too. The truck takes a 275/70/18 factory but I'm also considering the 295's cause I know they will fit.

Any thoughts?

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I put yokohama geolander ats tires on my f350 dually 4x4. They ride nice, and seem to be quiet. As you know diesels are a little noisy. Haven't tried them in the snow but consumer reports liked them. Got them from discount tire direct. Seems like they were 6 something delivered. But that's for 6 of them.

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How about the TOYO Open Country A/T's? They seem to get rave reviews, so much in fact that when I was tire shopping in Oct I was told that it would be 2-3 months before they were available. I ended up going back to my old reliable BF AT's. Hard to change when they give you little reason to.

I've heard/read that NITTO's are soft and wear quickly. They are mostly a tire for pretty pickups that never leave the pavement. smile

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Toyo and Nitto are made by the same company in the same factory in fact. I've also heard about their softness, especially on the big trucks.

I guess its between the michelins, BFG's and maybe the Goodyear AT silent armor.

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I had General Grabber HTS and was very pleased, but they are more ICE and wet surface than fresh/deep snow or mud, not much aggressiveness.

I also had Michelin ATs and I rate them the best of everything, including they lasted 90,000miles, they cost an arm and a leg but they are worth it if you can fit it in the budget.

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I ended up going back to my old reliable BF AT's. Hard to change when they give you little reason to.

I agree, my last pair of 315's lasted about 75k. Roughly 30k of that was on a 1500, the other 45k was on my 2500. I purchased another pair this past summer. Expensive, but worth it IMO.

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I have the Michelin at/2's and think they are great. They have great traction and wear very good as well. For a good all around AT and driving tire I just don't think they can be beat. Ford and Chev are starting to put them on the HD's I have been looking at lately. They are not as aggressive as the BFG's but deffintly handle the road and will outlast them by a mile!

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I have done alot of research on tires lately both online and with real people. Michelins are great tires for wear but are not very good on ice. Nitto's are great on ice but don't wear the best. From what I have found the best of both worlds seem to be the Geolanders, Hankook RF 10's or Cooper Discoverer ATR's. My best friend has the RF 10's and my father in law has the Cooper's both of these have excellent reviews online as well.

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I just put some Goodyear Authority from Wally on my 2500. THey are E rated, pretty much like the BFG, a little noisy, but not too bad. Seem to have agood gription also and for only $ 175/ tire, mounted adn balanced it was better deal than anything else I could find in the twin ports..

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Not sure if you can get them E rated but I just put on General Grabber AT2 tires on my 01 F150. They look a bit similar to the BFG AT's but half the price. I have 4k on mine and like them. I got them for $138 each at L and M Fleet. These were 265/70/17's

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Tried a lot of tires on the three diesels.

Ran two sets of BFG 295's on the F250, first set got 80K miles second set got 70K miles but one blew out at 40K miles going 75mph in Montana. Now it's got Nitto Terra Graplers on it. They have about 50K miles on them now with another 10K miles to go. They are not the best on ice.

Ran a set of Good Year Wrangler on the Excursion with very poor results. Now it's got a set of Ravo's and they are absolute junk. Will never buy them again. Expensive and wear very quickly. Decent in snow/ice though.

Ran a set of Dunlop Rovers on the dually and they wore very fast. Load range D but had very good traction. Now running a set of Michelin MS2's and like them a lot. Good traction in both snow and ice. Best part was the employee discount at Ford, $860 after the rebate all 6 out the door! The other places wanted $1,300. Even got the white lettering!!! Was going to go with the traction AT tire but wanted the 70K mile warranty.

My dad has a set of MS2's on his 3/4 ton van with 65K miles on them with a lot of life left.

Consumer reports puts Michelin tires on the top of the list year after year. Towing and rv forums also recommend Michelin more than any other tire.

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Michelin AT/2 on both a F-150 and Excursion. Great in snow, quiet on the highway, and long life. The Excursion has 15K on the tires and they still look new!

Sounds like other tires will get the job done too, but these have worked for me.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Thank you for the responses. I do know it’s a right of wayband not blockable...except...I seen one coming and did park in the area after work this week.  In a split second she/he turned around and went the other way. My truck would fill the approach but I only had the car that day.—this response is what I’m trying to avoid. knoppers-there was no bank there...there were little dots through the snow that was pulled back onto the driveway. Heck, he was up near the tree line. Wanderer-it’s a small rural area, I’ll be the ... The snow and ice is melting down to the tar today, they drove in it anyway. It’s 130 am and ya...time for jumping. Thanks for all the answers. I don’t feel alone in feeling it’s rude. That helps. 
    • I would think so, it would be no different than parking on the shoulder of the road. my commit was more related to people that put up barriers, to keep others from crossing there approach.
    •   Sounds plausible to me.  Is the thickened footing in your mind the same as pouring the perimeter of the slab thicker?  We did an 8 inch perimeter around the 4 inch slab.
    • Yes. But on a post framed building the only think I ever see is a thickened footing and not a foundation to the frost line. A major benefit of post framing is that you install the posts below the frost line so the need for a concrete foundation below the frost line is not needed. If I am understanding the question correctly. 
    • FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone.   May a person park their own vehicle in their own driveway approach?
    • I think they’re more looking at the footings requirement, aren’t they?  Thus the reason for getting the poles below the frost line?   Its the township’s responsibility to figure this out and you have the right to ask them to cite the code they’re following.   I used to live in Isanti County and dealt with a building inspector from my township on the construction of my detached garage.  Things weren’t very strict to say the least.     We built everything by the current UBC code, so I’d suggest first getting a copy of the current version of that since this building will actually be your home.  Don’t take unnecessary shortcuts to save a few bucks up front.  You’ll eventually regret it.   Reading your plans for the slab, it sounds pretty good.  There are plenty of slab homes out there built the way you describe.  What you don’t want is movement.     I’m not an expert by any means but I think footings on your slab wouldn’t be a bad idea and sinking your poles that deep should be a requirement.  If you don’t do footings, at least pour your slab thicker on the perimeter to hold it better.    Your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) can be more restrictive than code, but not less.  So if it’s defined in the UBC, you have to do at least that much.
    • I’ve personally been on both sides of this.   Used to love getting as much air as possible over driveways but I never understood gunning it on the other side after crossing.  I guess some are just mild adrenaline junkies.    I quit doing that for one, because it’s illegal, and two, not safe if the homeowner happens to be leaving or getting the mail at the time.   Now that I have a posted trail going over my driveway, I find it just rude, obnoxious and irritating to deal with 4 wheelers and sleds gunning it over the gravel and making ruts and eroding my base to the point of it being an expense to either plow and pack the class 5 back in place or spend the money to pave it.  I hate having to bounce over two ruts with my trailers and whatever I’m hauling in them too.   I think that’s the worst part for me.  Either jump it or be mellow on the throttle the entire way over.   I’ve seen trail groomers go around driveways before, making me wonder if that truly is a requirement or they were simply being courteous.  But I agree with knoppers, they should not drag over the driveway.  Maybe they think they’re taking the snow off for ya.  Call the people responsible for the trail and ask them for suggestions.  
    • If you want to get through ice fast and are going to re-tool for it completely, look at a Nils before making your final decision. 
    • I am fully aware of this as are most people.
    • some people are bad apples that give the sport a bad name, I as a snowmobiler have respect for driveways. FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone. trail groomers actually do you a favor by knocking down the bank, to keep it level. unless your groomer was not well trained, they will not groom over your driveway.
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