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Steve Foss

No-leak auger gas cap?

13 posts in this topic

I asked about this on another thread as an aside, but figure more people will weigh in if it has its own topic.

I have an 8-year-old Strikemaster 3 hp, a Lazer XL-3000. The gas cap leaks like crazy. It's original to the auger.

I know you can get leak-proof caps for Jiffy augers, but was told they don't fit Strikemasters. Since they both use Tecumseh motors, how can this be?

And, most importantly, does anyone sell a replacement no-leak cap for a Strikemaster? Also, I'm told you can't reef down the breather screw too hard on the new caps, because it breaks the rubber seal and then will leak. Wish they'd have come out with those caps on the originals.

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T-Bone taught me a neat trick a couple of years ago. Leave the breather screw shut on the gas cap, and just loosen the whole gas cap just a tad while you drill. Tighten the cap back up when you are done. No muss, no fuss.

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st,the guys at Strikemaster told me that their gas tanks are totally different from Jiffy's.I had a Jiffy prior to my getting the Lazer, so I know what your referring to. I have the same auger you do,and I had the same problem with the gas cap. I ended up buying a new cap at Strikemaster's office, but I was there for something else already.And I was told not to crank so hard on the gas cap.Sorry, I don't have any info. on a non leaker cap for your Lazer, or mine for that matter.

[This message has been edited by Rman (edited 12-27-2002).]

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I have an eskimo 2 hp with a black tank and a cap that leaks. I just don't fill up the tank, I use pencil as a dip-stick because I can't see how much gas is in it.

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I keep mine no more than half full too, because of the cap. Just would like a cap that doesn't leak.

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I took my cap and replaced the o-ring with one from a carb kit for a car, then got some heavy teflon tape from a plumber and taped the tank, helped a lot and remember not to fill it all the way full.

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Mine doesn't leak...I think the main thing is to make sure you screw the cap on straight, and snug...And as stated, do NOT over tighten the breather screw.

PCG

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Have you considered getting a whole new gas tank ? Contact Strikmaster or Tecumseh and see if they will work with you on a new tank.
I think Warrens idea of trying to replace the O ring is worth trying first though.
I'm with Gissert as well. I back the cap off a bit instead of backing the breather screw off. Just remember to tighten it back down when your done using it.

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The O-ring on my Strikemaster tank vent broke about the second time out[durn kids]. I used my leather punches to make up new ones; a fiber backed rubber one against the tank,[it helps to work in a boiler room] backed by a thin leather one as a sort of padding. Its still sealing tight after three years. I made up a bunch of them when I had the tools out and carry them in my tackle box. I've lost count of how many I've given away. One auger trick while we're on it; I carry a spare spark plug wrapped in Saran Wrap stuffed into one of my chainsaw plug wrenches in the bottom of my tackle box. When you flood the engine the quickest cure is pull the plug, pull it through a couple times, and put in a new plug. Learning yhat lesson cost me a couple hours of fishing.

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You would think someone could invent a leak proof gas cap! The one sold by jiffy if I remember right was only available for a year or two, then they went back to the conventional cap with the breather screw. I now have a strikemaster, keep it half full of gas, and be very gentle with the vent screw, so far so good.

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Like Gissert said, if your vent gasket is holding ok, just loosen the cap (the whole cap) a little when drilling and then remember to close it when done. If you look at the big picture, the darn rubber gasket that comes with tha gas cap isn't even big enough to take up the whole sealing area. It has about 1/8-3/16th" play so when you tighten it down, it may not seal the entire opening on the tank. If they came out with a bigger gasket that problem would end. As far as the vent goes, the little rubber gasket in that is pure dump. I don't even think it's a rubber material that's formulated to hold up to gasoline! After less than a year in service, they mush out and crack. Sure, alot of it is due to overtightening by the operator(s) but it's not a foolproof design to begin with. I liked the leather washer idea myself. That stuff will seal and stay in shape. Remember how the old guys used to seal a gas tank leak with a sheetmetal screw and a leather washer?......And only putting in a half tank of gas is a good idea too. You can drill ALOT of holes with a half tank.........T

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