Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

  • 0

Need Help with Trolling Panel Wiring


quijibo

Question

I am trying to rewire the "Deluxe trolling panel" on my 1984 Lund Mr Pike.

I got a wiring diagram and I ran all new wiring(#6).

4642749109_7aeabce390_b.jpg

4642696497_379b535f20_b.jpg

4643310808_36d6c40f2c.jpg

Battery #1 is in the rear of the boat and also provides 12v for cranking and electronics. Battery #2 is up front and right behind the panel. The trolling motor is an old Minnkota 795mx(24v).

When I hooked up the power it worked fine, until I switched it to 12/24 run. There was a big puff of smoke and now I need a new double throw switch.

Does anyone know what went wrong? I am an electric/electronic repair retard that really wants a trolling motor for at least part of my vacation.

Thanks,

Adam

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

you can email the drawing to me, i have a buddy who is an electrical engineer and a wizz at 12/24 volt problems. if you can send the description of the problems too that would be great. thanks jeff, [YouNeedAuthorization]

[YouNeedAuthorization] @cox. net

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Well, for one, see that red #10 wire jumping between the two poles/sides of the switch (in the red circle)? Cannot have that when you have battery (+) and battery (-) feeds (in green circle) connected to each pole. That red wire jumping from pole to pole of the switch creates a dead short across batt #1 when you put the switch to that position and that's what smoked the switch.

Probably could figure this out, but unfortunately I don't have time to pencil it out right now. Sorry...

Oh...question...the switch that burnt up...is one position supposed to be "charge" and the other position "run" or what are the two positions of the switch supposed to do?

Presentation1.1.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Here's what I think you need to do...

Remove the jumper going across the switch (scribbled out in green) and connect it corner-to-corner as shown in red.

Then, in the (presumably) "charge" position batt 1 and batt 2 should be in parallel for charging, then in the "run" position you should have 12V between black and red in the trolling plug and 24V between black and orange in the trolling plug.

The rest looks OK as best I can tell...

Presentation1.2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

The "jumper" was actually built into the switch. I ended up just wiring up directly to the trolling motor plug and bypassing the switch. It just kind of bugs me that I have a 1984 boat that is in great shape and fully functional, except for this one thing.

Adam

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Answer this question...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.