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heat checker

Threw on the broadheads

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yesterday, and found out they are hitting 2 inches to the left of field points. Mechanicals, 100 gr, field points 125 gr. Nice groups at 30 yds, trimmed off a shrinkfletch vane. Is this normal, no worries, just adj pins? Or is bow slightly out of tune?

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this is my second year but I have shot muzzy's last year and they shot dang near same. This year I'm shooting Rage's and they shoot dang near the same also atleast for my chances

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I know this isn't a popular answer (cause we've been down this path many times before) but IF your broadheads are flying good, then just readjust your pins and move on.

If your broadheads don't fly great then you'll have to do some tweaking.

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I have to ask why the two different grains for your practice/field points versus broadheads? Is the 2" difference at 40yds then but everything is good at 20 & 30yds? Just curious and maybe if there is a little more info out there someone will have some insight for you. I agree with DonBo that sometimes it just comes down the sighting in your broadheads but I'm sure it would be nice to check things over and figure out if there is a problem.

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Just always had the 125's before going to 100 gr broadheads. Different weight heads should just change the vertical point of impact, correct? 2" left at 30, less at 20, and more at 40 yds. Grouping is very good as I shaved off a vane and "lucked out" on wrecking more arrows. Thinking I should just move the sights and just keep practicing with the brdhds during the season. Tuned the bow myself, and just wondering if something might be off a hair to get the 2 different points of impact?

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I always match the weight of my broadheads to the field tips. I do agree that that SHOULD only effect the height, but that's not always the case. I would adjust your sights so your broadheads are hitting and call it good.

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The reason I asked about tip weight is I was thinking about arrow spine. Tradition shooters will bare shaft tune their bows to start off and a stiff arrow spine for a right handed shooter will hit slightly left versus fletched arrows. Shooting a lighter tip causes your arrow spine to act stiffer. I don't think this normally throws off fletched arrows to that degree but if you are starting off incorrectly spined the different weight tips may be adding to this issue.

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I always match the weight of my broadheads to the field tips. I do agree that that SHOULD only effect the height, but that's not always the case. I would adjust your sights so your broadheads are hitting and call it good.

Agreed.

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Just always had the 125's before going to 100 gr broadheads. Different weight heads should just change the vertical point of impact, correct? 2" left at 30, less at 20, and more at 40 yds. Grouping is very good as I shaved off a vane and "lucked out" on wrecking more arrows. Thinking I should just move the sights and just keep practicing with the brdhds during the season. Tuned the bow myself, and just wondering if something might be off a hair to get the 2 different points of impact?

When you change the tip weight of the arrow, you change both the spine (overall stiffness of the shaft) and the FOC (front of center), which is bassicly the ballance of the arrow.

What you have done is over spined your arrows. Meaning the amount of flex your arrow has when you release it is causing the arrow to have the left trajectory. Incorect spine effects left right more than up and down!!

You are much better off going up in broadhead weight than down. If I could only make one suggestion it is to get 125 grain heads. In general it is better to go from a 100gr feild tip to a 125grain broadhead.

The tight patterns at this point just say your form, bow, and mechanics of shooting are good. It is the equipment that is causing you trouble.

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Easton "cheapy" carbons (400),29" draw, 63lbs. Had thought about the spine issue, shrugged it off thinking 25 grains couldn't affect that. So what you are saying is, The more weight on the tip, the more the arrow will flex? If thats what you're saying, it makes perfect sense to me. More weight is harder to get moving, so the shaft will flex more. So how is the "perfect" flex determined? Some of you dudes are brilliant, and just don't know it yet. Keep the thoughts comin.

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I agree with neighbor that you are adversely affecting your spine of the arrows, but you're also describing a rest issue or hand torque. If your arrows get further to the left the farther out you go then it is not a minor issue.

2" left at 30, less at 20, and more at 40 yds. Grouping is very good as I shaved off a vane and "lucked out" on wrecking more arrows. Thinking I should just move the sights and just keep practicing with the brdhds during the season. Tuned the bow myself, and just wondering if something might be off a hair to get the 2 different points of impact?

If you paper tuned you would see a tear. The problem is exaggerated the farther back you go. Moving the pins will have no effect on this. Either its the change in spine, rest needs adjustment, contact with the arrow or you've got a torque issue once you put the BH on.

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Had clean holes with paper tune,(although I did do this with the 125's). Torque shouldn't be an issue as I shoot with a sling with fingers pointing to target. Been shooting 1" groups at 20, add .5" for every 10 yds after that all summer. Keep'm comin.

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I think your arrows may be a hair to light. 340s would be better I think. Don't have the chart handy.

The heavier broadhead should help.

How is your arrow flight? Any tail waggle? If you use lighted nocks shoot some arrows at dusk and see if they are flying perfectly. If your arrows are wagging it should be just a matter of moving your rest 1/16 or so to the right. When you get good arrow flight then set your pins.

Paper tuning would be the way to go though.

If you are progressively farther off from 20,30,40 and beyond just moving your sight isn't going to make things right. It will make it close. If you move your sight to dead on at 30 you will probably shoot a a couple inches right at 20 and you'll still be a couple inches left at 40.

If you tuned the bow yourself you should be able to broadhead tune pretty easily. There is a good broadhead tuning guide on AT. If your centershot, a2a, brace height, and cam/idler lean are properly tuned you shouldn't have too much trouble.

Oh yeah. Did you spin your arrows with the broadheads on them?

What make and model of bow?

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You've got it correct on the tip weight. If you're shooting a 0.400" spine arrow then your not to stiff; you're actually slightly weak according to most charts (they suggest ~0.340") but this doesn't mean it won't affect your arrow flight to the left. Arrow companies have charts to get you started on correct spine. Remember arrow length and draw length are not always the same! I have a 29" draw and shoot 30" arrows for BH clearance so I look up 30" lengths on the charts.

An easy way to help eliminate this possibility would be to get some practice tips in 100gr and compare to your broadheads. Also, how many broadheads have you tried? Have you tried all of them to see if there is any inconsistancies with the broadhead themselves? If you're only using one test BH then it may be just that one. Mechanicals should fly fairly close to field points and with you being consistant with your groups I'm still leaning towards something in your set up, somewhere.

Powerstroke made a lot of good suggestions on what to look for.

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I think your rest is very slightly off. Try shooting paper at varying distances. You might get a good tear at a specific distance but the arrow might be dancing a bit still before or after it gets there. If you still can't figure out the cause set your pins so your broadheads kill x's at their respective yardages. If you shoot with a single pin make it's left/right zero at 25 yards and that should keep your broadheads lethal on that axis for most practical distances. My point is all that matters is your broadheads go where you expect them to. They're the ones that count.

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If your point of impact is progressively farther to the side the farther out you go, it sounds to me like you may be canting (or tipping to one side) your bow. If you don't have a bubble level on your bow, try one. If you do, check to make sure it is level.

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Brief 3 Step Analysis to likely fix your problem (for specific advice we'll need to know bow & arrow specs, etc.):

1. Form - make sure you aren't torquing or canting the bow.

2. Either a. shoot 100 grain heads to see if the problem is fixed or switch to a differently spined arrow if available as arrow spine will be affected when weight is added to your tips. Arrow spine is a factor of step 3, but you may have a spine issue when you change tip weight.

3. Paper tune again. Broadheads should shoot with your field tips if you are properly tuned. It may be a slight fletching contact issue, or you may need to adjust your rest slightly as you noted it was a left/right issue.

On a side note, I am not an advocate of just moving your sights because it is likely only a bandaid for a bigger problem - that being that your arrows aren't flying true.

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I agree with northwoods last sentence. It's like going to the doctor. Would you rather treat the symptoms or cure the disease?

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We get guys in every year on Thursday and Friday wanting to buy a bow so they can hunt Saturday.

Had a guy come in with a 24 inch draw length bow the other day. He said his friend gave it to him and told him he should be able to bowhunt with it this season. I measured him at a 28.5 inch draw length. I put in a peep for him and told him to put on his release and draw the bow back. He hooked the release to the string loop and proceeded to hook his fingers on the string and draw it back. Twice!! I gave him a little instruction on how to use a release. I then asked him if he has ever shot a bow before. He said no. Then he asked for our cheapest broadheads and said he was going to practice for Saturday. I mentioned politely that the bow was way to short for him and he was going to have problems shooting accurately. His reply. Well at least I'm trying. He'll probably shoot a 12 pointer.

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I would'nt do a whole lot till you match the weight on the tips and broadheads. If you are consistantly shooting one inch groups at 20 yards you should be shooting Vegas and earning some cash!

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heat checker

My post at the top of page 3 wasn't a shot at you. I wasn't lumping you in with THAT guy. Just a response to snipers post.

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