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TUMBLEWEED

Ford experts out there??

14 posts in this topic

Just lost the tranny on my 1992 F150 302 Auto w OD

Will a tranny from a 1992 Full size Bronco, also 302,

fit???

Should have stayed GM!!!!

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Yes it should be the same as long as it is the same tranny, (E4OD, C6, ect.) and if they are both 2wheel, or both 4wd.

By the way, trannis go out in old GM's as well!

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Don't forget the newer 1/2 ton Dodges too!!

I found that tranny from the Bronco, doing some surfing.

I will ask the guy about it later tonight.

John's Auto has one for 600.00 more that comes with

a one year warranty, (They will install a different

one if it goes bad)

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We deal a lot with Johns. Although there have been a few intense conversations over the years on the integrity of the items we have received, they have always taken care of us in the end!!

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Dragged it back from Isle. Got to looking at a few

things. First off, the tranny will not hold the truck

when in Park. It can still roll freely. Secondly, if

I start the motor and move the gear shift to drive,

there is a slight pull on the motor, but I cannot shift back into park while it's running. Sounds like the flywheel is

moving. We are guessing the chain in the transfer is

the culprit. I have heard a rattling while the truck was

running, but wrote it off to old age/condition. It

was most likely the chain rattling around in the

tansfer case. Much easier fix I hope......

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Just lost the tranny on my 1992 F150 302 Auto w OD

Should have stayed GM!!!!

It is 17 years old!!!!!! I lost a tranny on a 4 year old Hyundai once- that was $1800!!!

Sorry, I actually drive a GM, but am a Ford guy at heart!

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I bought it used from a buddy. It had a recent rebuilt

tranny (2K installed), so I was hoping it was good for a while

at least. Maybe the "rebuild" was done on a Friday!!!!!

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See if there is warranty on the rebuild. Most places atleast have a 12 month, 12,000 mile warranty.

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Good point. We looked at it last night,and have a theory.

It's the E4OD model. This is an electronic controlled

transmission. The failure sympton was: strange noise

at the lifting of the throttle. As long as you kept

the rpms up and moving, it ran fine. (It sounded like

the torque converter wasn't staying locked up,or synced)

It would only do this ocassionally,and always at

the slowing of the vehicle.Then went it went out

coming home (slowing to 30MPH in Isle, it went to no

lock-up at all).

Our theory is that something within the electronics is

not working. The central on board computer manages

the following functions: gear selection,gear change

harshness, torque converter lock-up, and coast control.

It does this by an internal solnoid body. This assembly

consists of 5 solnoids. We think one of these is bad,

sometimes not releasing (strange mashing noise) and

now not engaging (current condition).

Of course this is only a theory!! The whole thing could

be fried. I am hoping the force is with us on this one.

Gotta pull some harnesses and take some readings with

my tri-corder tonight. Geeez, it's a crazy world down

here. And I quote from the starfleet manual....

"The E4OD transmission is fully automatic,electronically

controlled, four speed unit with locking torque converter"

I'd rather be fishing, Beam me out Scotty..............

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Is the fluid burnt? Does it smell like it got hot? Is it full? If it smells hot, or burnt it is not a electronic problem, if it looks clean, smells clean, then there is a good chance it is electronic, or a seal leak.

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I had a 89 f150 that had a new transmission put in it right before I bought it. It worked great until one day she made a pop noise and I lost everything. I had a transmission guy look at and found that the torque converter just barely touched the pump dogs and should have been shimmed to fit better, after a pump and torque converter it ran perfect.

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Fluid is nice and red, and there are no leaks.

The truck used to be a daily driver, but now

I only use it for the occaisional tow rig

or ATV hauler. It might even be the cable

harness or connector?? Many tech logs have that

listed as also a cause for failure...

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I think at this point, it would be wise to bring it in to a shop and have in diagnosed professionally, it could save you a lot of money replacing good parts.

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