Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
IceIceBaby

What Power and Length Rods for Lures?

6 posts in this topic

I'm a novice at musky fishing but I have many different rods and lures and no knowledge about which rod to use for different lures. I have a 7'2" MH, 7'6" MH, 8' MH, 8' H, 7' H, 7'6" H, and a 7' 6" XH. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Al

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not knowing the rod types, I would guess something like this:

7'2" MH, jerkbaits, gliders, possibly WTD topwaters

7'6" MH could be the same as 7'2" adding other topwaters

8' MH, will probably be your most versatile rod, cranks, bucktails (minus big double blades) and trolling

8' H, big double blades, dawgs

7' H, with other options you have, not sure what I'd use this for

7'6" H, same as 8" H

7'6" XH, larger dawgs

Remember, the longer the rod, the better casting distance you generally get without as much effort. Plus better/deeper figure 8's and better lure control (steering around weeds or changing direction away from the boat).

These are my suggestions, based on my experience, but others will most likely have a little different oppinions. Good luck. I'm sure you'll have lots of fun.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Al,

Looks like hunterjoes suggestions probabably are pretty close as good general rules. But as you use those rods, you'll find you will like certain rods based on your own personal preferences. I would suggest bringing out a subset of the rods listed on your first couple outings, maybe four - 8mh, 8h,7'6xh, and a shorter rod 7'2 or 7 for wtd/jb. They will work for most everything in your box. Any more than that on a single outing you may find is cumbersome to deal with and just creates more confusion. Dedicating time on these few rods on the lures you have will allow you to really understand more easily (1) if you even like the rod (2) which lures you prefer for each rod (3) where your gaps are that the other rods you did not bring/own might be needed.

Note: How the rod performs relative to the rating stamped on it, can very between manufactures. So one manufactures XH can be anothers H. Other intangibles that may sway you away/to certain rods is weight & handle design.

If you have multiple rods that work for the same types of lures - you could consider putting higher speed reel on one if you can use them for "burning" blades or working lures where picking up slack quickly can help make retrieve easier.

If your like me, I think you'll find about half the rods listed just won't get used based on preference after some time on them. They'll end up spares for freinds/family to use on your outings, or for sale on FM/HSO-Classifieds.

Good luck sorting it out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If it helps, the 7'2", 7'6" MH and the 8' H are Fig Rig Tooth Tamers, it doesn't say what action they are. The 8' MH is a Fenwick Avia Techna.

The 7'6" XH is a Team Diawa "Muskie", the 7' H is a Shimano Compre, The 7'6" H telescopic is a Fenwick HMG. None of those have actions listed.

Thanks,

Als

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't think the 7'6 HMG is a Muskie rod. I have the same rod but in an XH (up to 2oz). I use it as my Bass frog rod (suppose to be a flipping stick). You could use it if you want a specialized small bucktail rod or lipless crank.

The 8MH TechnaAV really will throw most everything very well up to 3.5-4oz's - great general purpose rod IMO. But lots of personal preference on specific lures. Works with double 10's, but some may think it is too soft for working them in the fig-8s. Great for glide J/B & WTD that work better with a softer tip or lighter taps. Probably too soft for d/r jerkbaits. Works great for regular dogs. Bigger question might be what reel you put on it - do you use a regular speed 5:1 (24-26"), or put a high speed 6:1 (28-31") like a Curado 300 or Revo Toro. Could go with one of each and put one on your 8MH other for 7'6MH

So the main thing IMO is determine whick rod works better for working wtd & d/r-glide jerkbaits that require a stiffer rod. And rod to work heavier baits or baits you want a stiffer tip for "ripping/twitch" & casting larger lures. The Diawa 7'6XH, or TT 8H may work for these.

The 7'2MH/7H would be great for a compact rod when want to travel real light or spare for some to use that is newer to baitcasters or muskie fishing. My daughter doesn't use baitcasters, and I let her use my 7'3MH when we last went musky fishing - worked perfect for her. Easier to use for her as a beginner, and she was able to use for most lures. This could also work good for working muskie type jigs if you want a rod that is less tip heavy.

I have a similar collection of rods, and that is how my use broke down. Out on the water, I think you'll find using fewer rods for multiple application works better than having too many rods getting tangled or cluttering the boat (unless you have a big boat and/or lots of storage for longer rods or coarse).

I don't have a lot of experience targeting ski's, but have done a lot of work trying to figure this stuff out - so these are based on things I've learned over my STEEP learning curve. It'll be easier to figure out since you already own the rods, as opposed to figuring out what to buy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

8'6" or longer for everything except jerkbaits. Sell the others and get a 9 footer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts

    •   You will get plenty of recipes for a brine or injection, or even an injectable brine which work good for turkey breasts.  A common injection are the store bought ones you see in sporting goods stores in the cooking section. All kinds of flavors from Cajun, to Honey Butter, Garlic & Herbs, etc. Some even come with a free syringe.  Some simple injections you can make are apple juice (plain or jazzed up), beer with seasonings, a doctored up chicken broth and one of my favorites a Lite Apple Brine.  Since it's injected I like lower salt than you would use for an immersion brine.  My Lite Apple Brine's ratio is 1 gram of canning salt mixed into 1 ounce of apple juice.  If you buy an 8oz bottle of apple juice, just add 8 grams of canning salt, shake it and you are ready to inject.     Years ago I asked Old Dave, an online friend, for help on an injection for a pastramied turkey breast recipe I was developing.  He sent me a modified version of Shakes Injectable Brine, which is fancier than my Lite Apple Brine.... and guess what, I really like it too.  Here is the recipe... and if you want to read more, I'll have the link to my write-up below.  BTW, I was skeptical of the cloves, but I tried the first one following the recipe and it's good.  My only variation is I'll use agave nectar instead of the honey sometimes.    Old Dave's Poultry Injectable Brine, based off of "Shakes" Injectable Brine. 
      32oz clean water (non-chlorinated and not softened)
      1/4 cup pickling salt
      2 teaspoons of TenderQuick
      1/3 cup clover honey
      3-4 bay leaves
      1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
      1/2 teaspoon pickle spice

      Heat it up in a sauce pan but do not boil. For a 12-15 pound turkey, inject 2 oz in each leg, 2 oz in each thigh, and 4 oz in each side of the breast. 16 oz total per turkey. I like to do the injection at least 8-10 hours before the fire.   My Pastramied Turkey Breast write-up can be found HERE   EDIT, you smoke them until the internal is 165° to 170°.  An injection will help keep them moist even at the 170° temp.  I like a mix of cherry and hickory, but keep the amount gentle.  Apple would be a safe bet for your first one and you can always use a stronger wood next time.  
    • First off, the comment I made which you replied to with a hypothesis never stated that there was proof they did anything wrong. I merely and accurately stated that there was a chance they did some of the same things and it appears that may be the case.   You said plainly that VW could have chosen the Daimler tech but chose not to. In the end doing so may very well have found them in the same boat.    
    • Haula is probably going to see a lot of playing time so I don't doubt he will have some nice years, kind of like how Brodziak scored 20 playing as our first line center. I like Schroeder as first call up or emergency player but he just can't consistently bring it in the NHL, that is no crime because when he gets hot he is fun to watch but he just can't stay there. 
    • That's some good info, Thanks.
    •   I think they're shut down, too.  Smells like no money and more welfare...    
    •   Not sure if their still producing cardboard up at that plant anymore?
    • Now Haula and Tuch will have career seasons next year.  Haula is the odds on favorite to win the Ross trophy and Tuch should have a couple Norris' in the next 5 years.     Sounds like Wild might not bring Schroeder back either.  I really hope they are contenders for a strong center or a really nice goal scorer.  
    • Good point about the center support.  I wandered out to my ground blind on one of the last days of archery season to find the roof caved in and two poles busted. 
    • MMmmm Cloquet....   Smells like money.
    • I am a little concerned with it fading but it needs to be left up for the deer to get accustomed to it so no way around that.   I assume the sun is the main culprit in fading so I'll do my best to protect against that.  One spot I'm considering is tucked into some pines which create a lot of shade, brushing it in heavily should also help keep it out of direct sun as well.   Good point about a center support to help with the snow.  I'll make sure to add something.
  • Our Sponsors