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    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
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WallEYES

BEE/HORNUTS

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I have a bee/wasp/hornet nest in a tree about 6 feet off the ground......whats the best way to get rid of them without getting stung.....I really don't really giving myself shots if I get stung.

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Get some wasp killer and soak that thing come nightfall. Plus, wear a snomobile suit, helmet, and a pair of choppers......defineatly a pair of choppers. wink

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Another little trick is to put a light in the opposite direction you will be running after the spray can is emptied. The surviving vicious little monsters go to the light, while you make your escape.

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Does it look like this?

3857306898_58e1cc09e1.jpg

This is a Bald Face Hornet nest that was in my yard about 12' up last month. I don't know how I could miss seeing this when it was small, but I did.

I sprayed this with a jet stream type wasp/hornet killer two evenings in a row at nightfall. The first time I just soaked the outside but some bees were still using the nest the following day. The second time I really tried to direct the stream into the opening you can see in the photo. The bees are more likely to all be in the nest at nightfall. The spray kills'em right now. I did not notice any bees following me either time. Good Luck!!!

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That is it, I'll try your suggestions tomorrow night...going to wait for a cooler night than tonight.

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bald face hornet, black, yellow, stocky little bugger? proud owner of one of them too. was able to drive up to it with the window cracked and sprayed, read the directions after, so hit it again next evening. was suprised how tough those buggers were, also saturated the nest and were some still flying days later.

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I have them going up under the bottom row of siding of my house. I have sprayed blindly a couple of times but they are still there. I even ran a bead of Great Stuff expanding foam to try to seal it off. I haven't been brave enough to lay on the ground to see where they are going. Any body have any ideas?

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Does it look like this?

3857306898_58e1cc09e1.jpg

This is a Bald Face Hornet nest that was in my yard about 12' up last month. I don't know how I could miss seeing this when it was small, but I did.

I sprayed this with a jet stream type wasp/hornet killer two evenings in a row at nightfall. The first time I just soaked the outside but some bees were still using the nest the following day. The second time I really tried to direct the stream into the opening you can see in the photo. The bees are more likely to all be in the nest at nightfall. The spray kills'em right now. I did not notice any bees following me either time. Good Luck!!!

These darn things have a wicked punch. I was mowing a yard that i have done for many years and went under that same branch like I normally do and all of a sudden I saw things flying and I whipped off my head phones and started swatting. I think I only got stung like 3 times on my arm and twice on my head, but they were just starting to build the nest that week. The first day of the bite it was just 3 little red spots, then the next day it started to itch, so I scratched it and next thing you know my forearm was almost double the size and I couldn't move it very well it was stiff. This lasted 2 more days until the swelling went down.

The hive is still on this property but I stay away from it now and it is easily 14" in diameter now...i'm not messing with it as it is about 5' off the ground. It only took them about 4 weeks to go from nothing to that big.

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Duffman and others......Bees gone with no stings......thats for the advice.

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Glad to hear WallEYES, although I would've liked to have seen if you did the "Bee Dance", Bushwac has been performing that thing everytime a flying stinging insect flies by, and it has so entertained me the last 30 yrs. LOL laugh

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To the post with the hornets under the siding, Make yourself a tray out of wood or cardboard and after dark, attach it to the house so that the insects will have to travel along it to get to the opening to their nest. Put a liberal layer of Sevin dust on the tray and they will walk through in going into and out of the nest, killing them in both directions. Should take a day or two and they will all be done for.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • I would think so, it would be no different than parking on the shoulder of the road. my commit was more related to people that put up barriers, to keep others from crossing there approach.
    •   Sounds plausible to me.  Is the thickened footing in your mind the same as pouring the perimeter of the slab thicker?  We did an 8 inch perimeter around the 4 inch slab.
    • Yes. But on a post framed building the only think I ever see is a thickened footing and not a foundation to the frost line. A major benefit of post framing is that you install the posts below the frost line so the need for a concrete foundation below the frost line is not needed. If I am understanding the question correctly. 
    • FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone.   May a person park their own vehicle in their own driveway approach?
    • I think they’re more looking at the footings requirement, aren’t they?  Thus the reason for getting the poles below the frost line?   Its the township’s responsibility to figure this out and you have the right to ask them to cite the code they’re following.   I used to live in Isanti County and dealt with a building inspector from my township on the construction of my detached garage.  Things weren’t very strict to say the least.     We built everything by the current UBC code, so I’d suggest first getting a copy of the current version of that since this building will actually be your home.  Don’t take unnecessary shortcuts to save a few bucks up front.  You’ll eventually regret it.   Reading your plans for the slab, it sounds pretty good.  There are plenty of slab homes out there built the way you describe.  What you don’t want is movement.     I’m not an expert by any means but I think footings on your slab wouldn’t be a bad idea and sinking your poles that deep should be a requirement.  If you don’t do footings, at least pour your slab thicker on the perimeter to hold it better.    Your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) can be more restrictive than code, but not less.  So if it’s defined in the UBC, you have to do at least that much.
    • I’ve personally been on both sides of this.   Used to love getting as much air as possible over driveways but I never understood gunning it on the other side after crossing.  I guess some are just mild adrenaline junkies.    I quit doing that for one, because it’s illegal, and two, not safe if the homeowner happens to be leaving or getting the mail at the time.   Now that I have a posted trail going over my driveway, I find it just rude, obnoxious and irritating to deal with 4 wheelers and sleds gunning it over the gravel and making ruts and eroding my base to the point of it being an expense to either plow and pack the class 5 back in place or spend the money to pave it.  I hate having to bounce over two ruts with my trailers and whatever I’m hauling in them too.   I think that’s the worst part for me.  Either jump it or be mellow on the throttle the entire way over.   I’ve seen trail groomers go around driveways before, making me wonder if that truly is a requirement or they were simply being courteous.  But I agree with knoppers, they should not drag over the driveway.  Maybe they think they’re taking the snow off for ya.  Call the people responsible for the trail and ask them for suggestions.  
    • If you want to get through ice fast and are going to re-tool for it completely, look at a Nils before making your final decision. 
    • I am fully aware of this as are most people.
    • some people are bad apples that give the sport a bad name, I as a snowmobiler have respect for driveways. FYI driveway approaches are on the public right of way, you may not block them, or place anything that can injure someone. trail groomers actually do you a favor by knocking down the bank, to keep it level. unless your groomer was not well trained, they will not groom over your driveway.
    • If code allows post frame for residential construction then by design you don't need a block foundation. 
  • MWO