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Mclovin

Bad broadheads?

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im shooting some thunderhead broadheads,

there kind of worring me because everyshot i take with a feild tip its perfect i shoot the broad heads and they go UP 4 inches or more? why?

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"Mclovin"

"im shooting some thunderhead broadheads,

there kind of worring me because everyshot i take with a feild tip its perfect i shoot the broad heads and they go UP 4 inches or more? why?"

Well the BROADHEADS are not the problem. I have shot 100gr, Thunderheads for a long time. But I always sight my broadheads in just like your field points they always are going to fly just a little height for me. So the broad heads just need to be sited in just like field points.

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You need to broadhead tune your bow. Basically you move your rest so that your field tip and your broadhead impact into the same spot. There are instructions on other sites about this but I don't believe I can post a link to them here. If I can get permission from a mod I would do it otherwise shoot me a email and I can send you a link. Awesome instructions on this other site on this with pics. rbs_headache@ yahoo .com

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IF they are flying good and the ONLY issue is they hit different spots, then just move your sights and don't worry about it.

BTW, I've shot Thunderheads for years and love them. They hit about 4" high and left for me.

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There are many reasons why a broadhead will hit differently than a field point but none of them are permanant. There is no reaso your FT and BH can't hit the same. Unfortunately it takes some time and analysis.

Its a heavily debated topic.

This close to season I would say just move your sight and see if that helps. If moving your sight doesn't help than that means it is a problem with your form or your rest. That will need to be fixed. The broadheads are amplifying your problem and will only make it worse.

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Assuming you have no fletching contact and your field points and broadheads weigh the same your fieldpoints, your broadheads may be grabbing some air and acting like a wing. You may need to move your rest or nock point. Depending on your setup moving the rest will probably be easier. I'd mark where your rest is now, then move the rest down a tiny bit, then shoot broadheads and field tips and continue to slightly move the rest until they hit at the same spot, then move the sight. At that point you should have good arrow flight and your bow is broadhead "tuned".

Do a search for the Easton tuning guide. It will tell you what to do with your rest depending on where your broadheads hit in detail. If you cant find that do a search on broadhead tuning.

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Why would I spend all summer tweeking my equipment to get the best possible flight from my field tips, then start moving everything around again JUST so my broadheads will impact the same place as my field tips?

Again, if your broadheads are flying good just move your sight and move on.

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To make your bow more efficient.

I understand what you're saying though DonBo. It's not that big of a deal but it's also an easy fix. Fix it and you don't have to mess around with sighting in twice.

This isn't worth a big debate though. Sometimes it's impossible to make a broadhead hit with fieldpoints. Then you get into spine and weight issues as well as bow tuning. It could very well be a problem with his arrows.

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An improperly tuned bow or arrows won't put broadheads with field points. My bow and arrows are tuned and field tips hit with the broadheads. It also throws a perfect bullet hole through paper with a unfletched shaft. I personally woudln't want to shoot all summer with the pins in one position, and then tinker with them right before hunting season, but it's better than just assuming everything will be alright and never checking your broadhead flight.

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i think the reason a lot of people never tinker with checking broadhead flight is because they think their broadheads were expensive, so they don't want to dull them or wreck their target, and have to buy more broadheads and/or a new target as well. personally, it is very cheap insurance. practicing with broadheads that is! for when the moment of truth comes, everything pans out better, instead of sailing one over the back of a deer, then wondering what in the heck just happened as he trots back into the woods.

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Why would I spend all summer tweeking my equipment to get the best possible flight from my field tips, then start moving everything around again JUST so my broadheads will impact the same place as my field tips?

Again, if your broadheads are flying good just move your sight and move on.

Why not get both your broadheads and fieldpoints flying together in the Spring, shoot field points all summer, then check and make sure they are flying together in the Fall?

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A dull broadhead and a sharp broadhead will fly the same buy 3 for hunting and 3 exclusively for targets.(just my $.02)

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Originally Posted By: DonBo
Why would I spend all summer tweeking my equipment to get the best possible flight from my field tips, then start moving everything around again JUST so my broadheads will impact the same place as my field tips?

Again, if your broadheads are flying good just move your sight and move on.

Why not get both your broadheads and fieldpoints flying together in the Spring, shoot field points all summer, then check and make sure they are flying together in the Fall?

You're missing my point. I tweak my set-up to get the best possible flight from my arrows. Then you want me to change that? I would be moving away from perfection just to reach some other goal. For what? Just so I won't have to practice with my broadheads because they might still fly the same as my field tips? Sorry, you're not going to convince me.

I'm not saying that isn't fine for you. If you want to reach a compromise between the best set up for each tip type then knock yourself out. Me? I want the best flight possible from each even though they may impact different places. I don't mind changing a few things and practicing with each to make sure I've accomplished that.

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I don't think you're getting the best possible flight for both if they aren't hitting together.

You talk about perfection and then say your arrows don't hit the same with broadheads and fieldpoints.

I guess I don't really understand why you don't want both. I've set up both ways so I know what you're saying. It's one of those to each his own deals. I think python is just stating that there is an alternative where you can accomplish both without sacrificing or compromising anything.

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How can it not be a compromise when you would have me change my settings that I have worked so hard to get just right and has worked well all summer? I'm sorry, I just don't get it and won't do it.

But like you say, to each his own. If it works for you, great. I've said all I'm going to on the subject. Good shooting! smile

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My idea of a tuned bow and "perfect" arrow flight is when my broadheads fly to the same POI as my fieldpoints. I test this out to 45 or so yards. I still shoot field points during the season just to make sure I am sharp and can close the deal and if my field points are hitting differently that my broadheads it bugs me.

If my form is right and both kinds of tips are hitting together I think the arrow isn't being steered by the broadhead and my arrow is flying the way I need it to.

Don has a different system that works for him. No big deal.

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don't get upset with me donbo, but i think the guys are telling you that by making a few small tweaks early in the year, your broadheads and fieldpoints will hit in the same spot. hence, leading away from having to resight your bow in late in the year with broadheads. its just my read on things here!

this way, you can still target shoot during the season with fieldpoints, and not have to aim differently to get the same results! hence, keeping the confidence up

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If your field points and broadheads are not hitting the same spot (or very close) your set up is not tuned. Neither arrow is flying as good as it can. Very easy to just move your pin to the broadhead but not for me. When I practice I always use field points and check the broadhead flight once in a great while. If it's 4 inches off something is outa wack and I would recommend getting help to get the flight closer if you don't know how to do it. Paper tuning is a great start. Easy to do and lottsa info on the net. With todays equipment once you get it tuned properly it should stay that way for quite a while.

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