Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
Sign in to follow this  
Dahitman44

Best Truck Tire?

Recommended Posts

Toyo Open Country A/T or Goodyear Wrangler AT/S have both been my favorites for the last few years. Tried others (3 kinds on 3 different trucks) but they couldn't compete.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need new tires -- Want something a little more agressive - -was thinking about the BFG KO All Terrain --

any thoughts?

Will be changing out my 35" (315/70/17) BFG's AT KO's in the next few months on my Dodge 2500 4x4 Diesel. I currently have 80k on them if that says anything.....granted they are fairly worn now and there is very little tread left. They are not cheap however!

I will be replacing them with the same

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can say don't get the Bridgstone Duelers, I had them on my Tundra and they are not good in the snow.

I have Michelan cross terrains on my 4 runner now, it looks like they're going to last about 60-70k. When they go I am going to get the BFG ATs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll agree with the Muskie... shy away from the Duelers. I've had 2 sets (1/2 ton and 3/4 ton) and they were not very good on snow and ice. I had the BFG A/T's on a 3/4 ton and they lasted a long time but were not great on ice but still better than the Duelers were.

I don't think a guy can go wrong with BFG, Toyo, or Goodyear as long as you get the tires at the top of thier list. Even a cheaper name brand can be a poor tire. I have BFG rugged trails on my super duty now (came with them) but I'll be upgrading to a more top of the line tire as soon as these are worn out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Has anyone tried Kelly's Safari T-Rex tire? These look pretty aggressive with a decent price and pretty good reviews on the net. I too am starting the search for some new rubbers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you search the equipment forum, you'll find my response to this topic over and over and over again.

I decided I wanted to be 'cool' years ago, so I put BFG All-Terrains on my Ford Ranger 4x4 ext cab. Traded the truck off with 80,000 miles plus on those tires.

Bought a GMC Sierra with some kind of Firestones on it. Lets just say I was hard braking and putting my foot into the accelerator as often as I could and then had a reason to put new tires on the truck. Went with All-Terrains again. Finally had to replace those tires after 100,000 miles. You read that right, I've got the paperwork to back it up.

I'm now into my next set of All-Terrains, getting close to 2 years on them now.

In that entire time, I've had 2 flats. One was the responsibility of a nail and the other was my fault while on Upper Red Lake in the winter.

I don't think there is a better multi-purpuse truck tire out there.

Funny thing about the Duelers, 2-3 years ago I was reading a lot of praise about them. Not quite the same response in this topic.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I heard they dont make my size in the "KOs" -- 275-65-18?

If I change size a little is that bad?

A little bit... No.

I have 285s on my Sierra, never reprogrammed the computer either. Bigger hurts your mileage and your pulling power, I've experienced that for many years. Mine are 285 75 R16s. 285 is way oversize on the diameter/circumference for my truck but I like them.

My factory rims are 16s, yours are 18s, that may be causing the problem as an 18" rim is pretty big for a truck. Nice looking but big IMO.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I heard they dont make my size in the "KOs" -- 275-65-18?

If I change size a little is that bad?

LT285/65R18/E - Listed on the BF HSOforum. All-Terrain KO's.

Great tire. They'll give you a little road noise due to their aggressive tread but it's not bad at all.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My next set of tires for my GMC will be BF AT's. They never come as original equipment but they are always my choice as the second set. I usually get 60-70k off a set. Make sure you shop around. I have found a $150/set difference across the SW metro area dealers. I have found the best prices at the big whole sale clubs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

311 hemi --

those tires are 10-ply right? I thin k they are like 350 a tire or something like that.

They worth it?

The tires I have are basically off a Hummer (I purchased take-offs at the dealer). They are a D rated tires which I believe is an 8-ply tire. I don't do much heavy hauling with the truck so this works out fine for me.

I just did a quote on Discount tire web site and these tires are about $260/each ($1200 installed). That was a bit of a surprise as the last time I got a quote it was like $1600 installed.

They are definitely worth it to me. I get the traction I want in a long lasting tire.

As far as calibrating the speedo, if you change up/down one size it wont make a big difference and I probably would not do it. My truck originally had 245's on it when I bought it and I had them swap the 315's on it off my old truckI was trading in. That was a huge difference in tire size and I definitely wanted to get the speedo recalibrate properly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My next set of tires for my GMC will be BF AT's. They never come as original equipment but they are always my choice as the second set. I usually get 60-70k off a set. Make sure you shop around. I have found a $150/set difference across the SW metro area dealers. I have found the best prices at the big whole sale clubs.

Sams or something else?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bridgestones have been really good to me, I have had mine on my truck for 40,000 and they are in really good shape, I have the APT. I have only seen them on a couple other trucks. I also had a 99 ram with the regulat AT's and they didnt work that well.

My brother just put on a set of dueler HL's on his jeep and they hum a lil bit and seems to work good in the sticky stuff...

I have beeen really happy with the bridgestones and prolly wont change

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just got some Daytons about 8 months ago and have been very impressed with them for the $.

I also got some Daytons back in October (LT 265-70-17 in a C range), and I've been very happy with them thus far. I have 13K on them and they're wearing nicely 13/32nds tread left.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have goodyear workhorse extra grips on my dakota the past few years and they have been great. think the current ones have 50,000 and still alot of tread left.

was thinking of trying the duelers next go around, but after reading this will stay away from them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you don't care about "brand name" look at some Wild Country XTX's. I have them on my k1500 and like them a lot. They look like a Kelly, sort of. Agressive but not mudders. work great in ND cornfield mud... wink Not even sure how many miles I have, but they still look new, and they have a cool squared shoulder look, not the "bulge at bottom" look - but I run them at 55 pounds with load D.

Significantly cheaper than name brands. Otherwise Kumhos and Toyos AT tires have been good, but the prices on those have gone up with their popularity - I used to get them years ago when nobody heard of them.

I just put some Dueler HT's on a Trailblazer p245/65/17. I wanted road tire on that truck, but would not put them on my fishing/hunting vehicle. I paid $540 total, including tax/balance/disposal/$10 per tire insurance, all that carp, just for price comparison sakes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i've had 2 sets of toyo open country a/t and both sold with the trucks with 50,000 miles plus. No problems with either set. With that said right now on my silverado im running goodyear wrangler rt/s becasue I got them for $98 a tire. money was tight at the time or i would have went toyo. They are doing well at 13,000 miles havent noticed any wear problems.

I put goodyear assurance tripletread tires on my 07 impala ltz, the ones with the "v" look to them. man can they throw water, wet traction is amazing, dry traction is good, and no road noise plus they look awesome with the v tread pattern and have about 30,000 miles on them and rotating them religously they havent shown wear at all yet. these were $149/tire.

goodyear is creeping up on my list (knock on wood)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  



  • Posts

    • I would fur it out another inch, then spray foam and finish to the furring strips.  No vapor barrier needed at that point.
    • Use 1x2 (actually 3/4"x1 1/2") PVC trim boards for firring strips on the face of studs. The PVC won't absorb any moisture and works well as a thermo break from the aluminum studs. They can be found at any of the big box lumber stores.
    • Moisture is likely condensing on the metal studs and being transferred to the paneling. Furring strips will probably be the best bet with metal studs. You can run them horizontal or vertical and then just attach the paneling to that. I personally wouldn't use a vapor barrier. Some guys do though. 
    • I have a 6.5x14 Ultra Shack. I'm guessing was built early 2000s. Had to tear apart interior walls due to moisture build up. Steel frame, with aluminum 1.5x1.5 or 1"x1" tube studs. Previously insulated with pink board foam between studs, with a thin quarter inch thick foam pad glued to the studs, then paneling glued over the top of it all. I'm thinking the issue was no vapor barrier? I have it all torn apart down to the studs. Wondering how I should finish it, use a vapor barrier such as poly? Or no vapor barrier? Any help is appreciated! Thanks!  -Nate
    • Check striker's page.  They have some of last years stuff onsale.
    • It's been awhile since I've had time to upload pictures. There has been a lot of progress made!  The siding is up and finished! The process was more difficult to manage with the bends and my lack of tape measure skill lol If i were to do the bends again I would make sure to order 2 sheets extra and order them at the length required to wrap the entire house. From the point on the nose all the way back to the middle of the rear wall. There ended up being vertical seams along the sides here, which in hind sight, isn't ideal.  One thing that i'm not sure I've noted is the bottom white trim. A lot of people use J- Channel on the bottom but you can order a trim called a step down. Which works awesome around the lower edges and doesn't fill up with ice and snow.  The trailer lights are all wired up and working. Seeing whats back behind these big trailers always drives me crazy so i bought the ones with reverse lights built in.  The maiden voyage was out into the parking lot and then back into the shop. It didn't fall apart so it was a success.  I took a few pictures of the bending process. It was a pretty simple setup. A big piece of angle aluminum secured between 2 - 2x4's with 2 clamps a bar and a big hammer worked really well. If you're going to do this make sure to add half of the rib height to whatever the measurement you're trying to hit is. And as i mentioned before, buy the length to wrap the house from the front point all the way to the middle of the rear wall.  We would clamp the bar down then hit it with the hammer to "break" the corrugations. Once they were broken it bent extremely easy.  We also got most of the lighting on the inside roughed in. I have 4 110 outlets and 2 USB plug ins for cell phone/misc charging. All of the lighting will run on 12V. I'm no engineer but, each of the lights in the picture draw 240mA so with them all on I'm thinking i'll get about 30 hours of run time on one battery. There will be 2 batteries for lighting and USB and a separate one for the heater so I should be ok for a weekend "off the grid". I'll have a generator as well to run the TV and other goodies which can charge the batteries as well.  I also picked up the material for the interior. Menard's is having their 11% sale until 10/21/17 and also a sale on their 5/16" Cedar tongue and groove. Between the two sales I got the price down to just under $1 per square foot. Apparently, they aren't stocking this specific Cedar anymore so I had to buy 3 different stores out of stock to get all that I needed. In the end I still didn't have enough to do the roof so i bought some Birch plywood to finish that part. I think a lighter ceiling will help the place feel a little bigger anyways. I got antsy last night and finished some of the cedar boards with Natural Finish Watco Danish Oil. It turned out to be the exact look I was going for. From what I've read i think finishing them all before installation is the way to go. Then once everything is up doing a quick coat of Danish to even everything out.  At this point i'm counting the Steps left to go instead of how many I have done! It's getting close to starting the fun part ( the interior). I'll keep everyone posted on the progress! 
    • My bad... How about this?   https://icefishingdeals.com/
    • Yea, I'm not sure when this project is gonna get evicted from the shop area that i'm using so we had to get it weather proof first. Ideally i think the interior first is a better approach. We ran into some issues wiring that would've been easier handling from the outside. 
    • They don't save cap space that is the whole point. The money is still spent. What it allows them to do is go OVER the cap during such time a player is on LTIR. It doesn't give them relief at all, it just allows them to go over the cap. We already have Coyle on LTIR so it wouldn't do any good to add Parise to that. That would mean two moves would have to happen when they are both healthy. The Wild could do that too, but what sense would that make because they would be forced to be compliant once Parise is healthy. Hossa is likely going to be LTIR all year. At this point I doubt Parise will be out that long. Russo did a very good writeup on it last night for TheAthletic. You can also read up on it on CapFriendly.
    • I'm on board with the others, sounds legal to me!  Best of luck hunting! Kettle
  • Our Sponsors