Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
Wish-I-Were-Fishn

Motor Trim Pin position

3 posts in this topic

I have a 50hp Yamaha 2 stroke with trim/tilt. It has a multi-position stop pin that restricts the down position of the motor. Where do I set this?

Do I put it in the lowest hole and adjust the trim each time, or do I find the best running position with the pin in and only use the trim/tilt to raise the motor while launching, but put the motor all the way down till it rests on the pin while running?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would try it in the lowest hole first unless it feels like it is plowing while trying to get on plane.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Like Bruce said start at the bottom. Use that as a stop limit when you trim in. If you need to trim that far in to get on plane then there you have it. If your bow is plowing water then bring it up one position and try that. This trial/adjustment should be done with a normal boat load and weight distribution.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Posts

    • Just use plain old spray paint in a can. I've done it many many times and seems to stick really nice. Nothing special either I can't even tell you the brand because I have no clue. But as mentioned doing 2-3 light coats helps.
    • no expert here, but heat doesn't rise. heat radiates in the direction of least resistance (R value). warm air or water rises because it is less dense than colder air or water.  If you don't insulate you will be heating the ground under your cabin and the earth is a very large heat sink $$$. get some info from an expert in the radiant field as far as tube diameter, spacing, water temp, manifolds, length of runs, and so on. it varies on amount of windows (solar) ceiling height and room type (bed, bath, living area,  storage etc.). once you pour over the tubing you get to live with it. I did my own Home 15 years ago and got some good advise (wish I would have taken it all)
    • Sonar works from above, cameras need to be submerged. What am I missing here?
    • I've also had good luck spray painting PVC.  Biggest thing I found is to do lots of light coats, the PVC makes the paint want to run in a hurry.
    • I believe you can do this with the Lowrance HDS 9 and above.
    • I'll go with another loss in overtime.
    • Calling a win tonight, it's going to happen!
    •   You'll probably run into plenty of "experts" among the experts, too...   Floor heat is nice, but definitely not the best option if you're looking for the best efficiency, since it is a slow recovery system.  If you were looking for efficiency and lowest cost, I would suggest looking into a mini-split heat pump to complement the gas furnace if you have off-peak available.   (Disclaimer: Not an expert either, but I have stayed at a Holiday Inn Express a few times.)      
    •   Same here. I have 3 of them. Use them in the SUV, Boat, Snowmobile, and Dual Sport bike. They seem to work better on my sled in the winter with no issues at all over my old ifinder which would eat batteries in the cold. They are discontinued but you can still find them out there on the List or bay once in a while. I like them as they are a crossover and can be used on the road or with a lake map which is the main thing I use them for. Wish they would bring something like it back.
    • Ridiculous... but it would work.  Sorry to offend, guess I don't get quite so fired up about concrete.
  • Our Sponsors