Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
Sign in to follow this  
sand_pike

Service Air Bag

Recommended Posts

Service air bag warning just came on.

2003 Silverado 5.3, 61,000 miles

Dealer wants $115 just to diagnose, is that price reasonable??

Any simple things to look for before I cough up?

this sounds spendy frownfrown

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

willing to bet that is a bad airbag sensor, possibly in the front of the truck up behind the bumper (airbag wire connectors are yellow) Just replaced one on my dads truck, look for white elec. corrosion around and behind it

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

$115 is steep! It only takes about 5 minutes to plug in and run the diagnostic. The shop down the street only charges $40 to check codes. Yeah I know the machine aint free and diagnostic software is not cheap either but I just consider it a cost of doing business. If I charged $115 for an estimate people would think I bumped my head...and my estimating software is over $600.00 a month.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

$115 is steep! It only takes about 5 minutes to plug in and run the diagnostic. The shop down the street only charges $40 to check codes.

Its a bit off subject but I just wanted to clear up a misconception.

Running a "diagnostic" and "checking a code" are 2 very different procedures.

Running a diagnostic can sometimes entale many steps on a diagnostic tree that can be quite involved, in order to reach a conclusion as to what the problem is or where to locate it. $115 would be cheap for many systems. Checking a code on the other hand, is much more simple, far less time consuming, but much more general in nature. Knowing the code only tells you where to start looking, not always what the actual problem is.

To me, 40 bucks to check a code seems high, when most auto parts stores will check codes for free just for the opportunity to sell a part.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Exactly Mac! There is a BIG difference in checking codes, and diagnosing the problem. Just checking a code and replacing a part will more times then not cost you more money then diagnosing the problem, since most parts now days cost well over a couple hundred dollars! If you gamble and you are right, you saved the diag fee, if you throw a few parts at it, then give up and then bring it in to diag, you will be WAY behind!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I totally agree with Macgyver..Pulling out a code is only the start of the diagnosis. Many people believe if you can connect up a computer to the car it will tell you what to fix....end of story. Sure would be nice but in the real world it just isn't so. One hour for a diagnostic charge may be cheap if it takes two hours to find the problem. If it takes only 15 minutes to find the problem and you get charged for an hour it still isn't a bad deal. Try fixing it on your own and see what it costs without a clue as to what to look for. Just the cost of doing business....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry I stepped on yer wallets boys. Won't happen again.

I don't think anybody thought that.

Any chance we get to clear up the popular misconception of the magic computer that tells you exactly whats wrong with a vehicle with the push of a couple buttons we will probably do so.

Last night I had a good example. A buick raineir with a P0410 secondary air code. From past experience I know that I should here the air pump running with the key on. It was not! I could have easily within 5 minutes told the customer that the air pump is bad only to find out after the install that the new one didn't work with the key on either.

Instead I took the time to use the scan tool to turn on the air pump while checking for power and ground at the connector. It was good! Plugged it back in and it turned on. So now I know that this is something I have not run into enough times to know what to do next so I print the 11 page 60 plus step diagnostic flow chart. It took me about 30 minutes to find out out the switching valve was frozen.

The point is if my experience can knock out a correct diag in 5 minutes why should I make less than the guy with less experience that takes 45 or more minutes to find out the same thing?

Time is irrelevant in the diagnostic process. It has always been presented in every shop I have worked at as a flat fee that covers scanning for codes and up to an hour of diagnostic time. There have been very few times over the years that I have requested more time even though there have been many that have taken much longer than the hour I get. If its something new and takes me longer I chalk it up to learning experience and I'll know for next time!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  



  • Posts

    • Hey guys, it's me PGF. Been a long time since I've posted and couldn't get logged on as old PGF so I'm busted down to newbie. Anyhoo, I saved this spear from the scrap yard and was wondering if you guys had any idea where it might have been made? It has MK or MN i think stamped near the business end. It's hard to tell for sure what letters they are. Any ideas are appreciated! Thanks
    • Maybe Fisherman's Corner in Duluth?
    • I believe superior shooter supply carries what you need, try giving them a call, but on a search myself they do not seem to carry black powder but they may be able to point you in the right direction ?
    • Been there done that . I have 2 CGI s and 1 Wright Mcgill Tony Roach ( Eagle Claw) . When I set them up outside the wind would spool the line off and of course get snagged in the nut holding the spool in place. I made a brass rod about 3 in with a loop on the end and fastened to the reel. I run the line through the loop. It helps quite a bit. The drag is another matter.
    • third season coming up for my #8's.  Once in a great while I might wrap on the button but very rare. My pointer finger keeps the line in place. Free spool??  I aint got time for that, LOL. 
    • Taking tomorrow off...  We will see what happens as this front pushes in.  Hopefully it gets something on its feet.
    • Just wondering what people use for portable chairs. Bucket, fold up, tripod, etc. Been looking at some nice fold up chairs with a padded swivel seat. But they are 11 pounds each. I want to stay as light as possible. I also have a tripod chair but don't really like a post riding up my crotch. 
    • I like my Eagle Claw. My only gripe is that because there is no hole for the line to go through it will come over the OD of the main spool and get wrapped around the release button. Then I end up having to loosen the button until it comes off. The line will then be free and then have to put the button back on and re-tighten it. I like the composit material because it is not cold to the touch when using bare hands. I also use my finger as a drag to control the free spooling. Sometimes it will spin too fast let out too much line.
    • that's part of the reason I didn't jump on this one cause I thought you yanking a chain or two...
    • There's a few good videos on the tube for ideas.        
  • Our Sponsors