Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
Sign in to follow this  
wall_guy_101

Mid 80's 25hp LS....Won't stay running

Recommended Posts

Alright,

Last year my motor was getting progressively harder to start. Now it won't start at all. I've put in a new carb kit,jets have spark but my plugs seem excessively wet. Flooding out? Perhaps float adjustment?....need recommendations cause it's driving me nuts. It will spit and sputter but just can't get it to keep on keeping on.

Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
VMS    0

Sounds like it is time to replace the plugs. Then, when you get it going, do a hard shot of sea-foam through the carb throat, get it in there until the motor dies, then put a bit more in, let it sit for a spell (20 minutes minimum) then take it out and run it wide open until the whole system is cleared out.

To me, it sounds like plugs are fouling out, and the system just needs a good decarbonizing.

Steve

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, what happend to the search function on this board? I can't do a specific search... so... I tried to search a thread I had going and all the steps I did. Mine was remarkably similar to yours, and I think it would help you out, if anybody can find it.

BoxMN was posted, and it was about in April of this year. Good luck finding it... maybe my problem finding it is related to my IE8 issues with this board. I jsut wanted to post the link to my thread.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Old gas is definitely not the problem....made sure to empty and clean tank and also ran non-oxygenated 91oct. fuel. The plugs were brand new a week ago so i have to eliminate that as an issue. I have to think it may be a stuck needle?? Perhaps it's not seating all the way letting to much fuel in. Will keep you updated and thanks for the responses!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
VMS    0

something cheap you can try: Replace the plug wires. Over time, the plug wires will eventually lose their capability to carry a current due to build-up of of resistance in the wire. Shouldn't cost more than a few $$ and is good preventative maintenance. Being a mid 80's motor, it certainly couldn't hurt...

tough thing is that it's like shooting in the dark.

What brand motor?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep, thanks Black Bay, that is it.

You will see the mistakes I made and the little things to check. All in all, everything was easy on my motor, just make sure to check every detail to make sure you did things right.

Now it is "running like a Mercury" wink

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks so far for the responses!

I tore apart the carb today (again) with no better results. It looks like i'm getting a very good solid spark. Im beginning to believe it may be an electrical issue such as timing. It is a mercury by the way. The plugs are still wet looking even though I turned the needle way down. Still spits and sputters but can't get it to stay going. Will try the new wires but my mind is telling me it's something different. Still not sure what though. Another thing i'm encountering is after so many pulls today i'm getting really black oil dripping off of the bottom of the motor.......What next?? Perhaps it's the crank seal??....thanks again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds to me that you have the opposite of BoxMN's problem - too much fuel..

Which would point me back to the carburetor if you have good spark. If your float is made of a sponge-like material, sometimes they will get soaked with fuel, and when that happens, they won't float up and shut the fuel supply off like they are supposed to...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

if you take the float out and shake it does it have fuel in it? Have you checked the oil level to make sure that it is not making oil by pushing gas into the crankcase? We have this on some smaller equipment when it sits with the valve on, it seeps into the crack case then wont start. Just a thought.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Still think your getting too much fuel some way - needle valve not closing all the way or float not adjusted right, or something on that order.

Does the motor have good compression?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not familiar with that motor but if it has a fuel pump maybe the diaphragm is shot. Is there a primer bulb? If so does it stay hard.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Again, thanks for the replys.

The bulb is staying hard so i'm not tending towards that idea. I'm now thinking towards the crankshaft seal itself. Will check compression tomorrow. Thanks again

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey gents,

After almost a total tear down of the motor i seem to have found the problem(s). #1 Found a slight tear in the vacumm line thatruns from the top of the head around to the intake port. #2 My fuel line bracket was tweaked not allowing it to stay forward enough to start while in the neutral position. Seems to run like a honda now. Thanks again for the responses.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey gents,

Seems to run like a honda now. Thanks again for the responses.

You mean it is now running like a Merc wink hehe, my "real" boats have Mercs...

Glad you found it! Have fun smile

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  



  • Posts

    • We had a tire blow out a few weeks ago while heading to Zumbro Falls so I just put 4 new tires on the camper last week. Decided to go with the new Goodyear Endurance tires. I also packed all the bearings while I had the wheels off.  
    • Has anyone tried using a picnic basket? 
    • Last nites work. 13 qts stewed tomatoes, 5 pints juice and 15 pints salsa!
    • I'll second that!! Gotta get some more cob cawn today myself....
    • From the  picture it is a male yellow headed blackbird; IMO there is even a faint white bar on the wings which may be what you describe as "the ring on its back" and the black smudge under and behind the eye.  I can't tell about the bill, but on a cowbird the bill is quite heavy;  not nearly so stout on the YH blackbird. Immature male yellow headed black birds are not so bright yellow as the adults, and there should definitely be some young of the year fledged by this time of the year.   If the picture is not accurate then we will need a better photo to do better than that.  IMO This picture does not show a brown headed cowbird.  Most cell phones will take a better picture and if it is tame enough please post another or even better a couple more.  The more different poses the better. Yellow headed blackbirds are almost invariably connected to swampy areas, especially those with cattail fringes.  They also tend to be around in groups, especially groups nesting in the same swamp not mixed in with red winged black birds.   The females of both species are quite drab, and quite distinct from those of the cowbirds.
    • I do live by a river and have lots of RWBB, maybe it will yellow up. That's a very distinct rusty brown ring on it's back though, I didn't see that in any of the YHBB pictures.
    • This furnace has 2 pipes. The larger pipe about 4" is the air intake is supported through ring #29. The smaller pipe inside the larger pipe about 2" is the furnace exhaust connected through the larger ring #30 and screwed to the raised portion of ring #29. My furnace a vintage Hydro Flame Convection with dual direct vent, needed no power, and used a pilot light. Had the identical 2 pipe direct vent as yours. I built 2 rings similar to your drawing. Had 2 major issues: 1. Anytime the wind exceeded 20 mph, my pilot light would blow out even when the furnace side of my house was parked to the leeward side due to wind eddies.  2. At the exhaust cap which was about 1 3/4" from the side of the house would scorch the side surface above the cap and the moisture from burning Propane (1/2 pt. per 10#) would freeze on and below the exhaust when temp went -10 or below. Second year I re-designed using the Pipe Cap photo 1 from Menards for under $10. I cut off the bottom half at the black line and cut a hole on the outside flat surface for the exhaust pipe. This was my fresh air intake. Also filled the inside of the cap with a disassembled expanded metal filter from a motor home stove top exhaust filter.  Photo 1   Secured it to my house and ran the exhaust pipe through the hole in the end. Attached the exhaust pipe to a 2" x 3" aluminum gutter down spout used as a chimney. Photos 2 and 3. Totally solved my issues. You may also find a similar cap to photo 1 for the exhaust instead of the pipe. Most of the caps I was able to find had a 4" connection point so you would need to modify to 2" or whatever size you exhaust pipe is. How ever you do it, cover all openings with a screen to keep the Mud-daubers out as they love burned propane orifice area to build there nest.  Photo 2 & 3
    • sure looks like YHBB.  open fields and swamps close by? They like to hang out where the RWBB do.  Cannon SX30IS is pretty cheap online. 35 power zoom. good for still shots.   
    • Going to bait tomorrow with fryer grease, bread, dog food, cherry frosting, peanut butter, soft candies, raw white sugar, and popcorn. I am throwing everything at them tomorrow, hopefully the bears like the variety!
  • Our Sponsors