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upnorth

Another Rod-this one for a charity benefit

25 posts in this topic

Just did this rod for a charity benefit/auction/dinner for a couple that had a baby 4 mos premature. The benefit is in Nashwauk Thursday.

The blank is a RainShadow RX7 ISB841.5 . 7 foot fast action Medium power rod. 1/8 to 3/8 ounce 6-12 line. Fuji Hardaloy guides. The handle and reel seat insert was turned from piece of poplar.

Turned out pretty well for only 5 days to turn the handles do the thread work and finish everything.

The butt wrap.

DSCF0003.jpg

The handle.

DSCF0006.jpg

Didn't get any good pics of the nickel inlay on the end of the handle. Forgot to take pics of the guide wraps, but are navy blue with silver trim.

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do a lot of people end up using these rods, or displaying them?

and if they use them, how is the performance of a wooden handle versus that of a cork handle?

beatiful rod by the way.

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picture it like this what would you figure would transfer energy better a sponge or a piece of wood ?

or

what would make a louder bang if you tapped against the corner of the table a sponge or a piece of wood

what would hurt more if someone trew it at you a sponge or a block of wood grin

sure it isn't the best to hang on to in cold wether or when wet but I think you get the picture

nice work by the way!

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Thanks for the positive feedback guys, I appreciate it.

Wood vs cork? IMO heavy dense woods don't make as good handle materials as the lighter woods like Pine, Cedar, Poplar and a few others. The feel we are looking for is the caused by the materials weight and ability to transfer vibration. Lighter woods transfer vibration very well, heavy woods probably tranfer the vibration but the density and weight take away a little of that.

You would be surprise just how comfortable wood is in cold weather. Grab a piece of wood in cold weather and you'll see what I mean. For one it doesn't get slippery when wet as a matter of fact cork absorbs some water and gets slipperier than the wood, and it really is not colder, and with wood insert like I use there is not as much graphite or metal to hang on to.

Another reason I like to work with wood is take a good look at the cork that is available and the quality. Unless you are willing to pay for premium cork you are gonna pay 2 to 3 dollars a ring for something that is not full of pits etc. I have never built a rod for someone and used a wood handle and them say they didn't like it. More than a couple have come back and ordered another with a wood handle.

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Very nice work. I've never built a wood handle, and yes cork can get expensive in the range you mentioned.

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Stopped by the benefit for the meal and they were selling chances for it at $10 per. Some is gonna get darn a nice rod for $10.

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Heck it's for a good cause. I'll offer $40.00 will this work???

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They were selling tickets/chances at $10. Cripes I paid more than $40 for the blank grin But yes it was/is a good cause. I have yet to hear how many ticket were sold, but in the 1st hour there were at least 8 in the bucket and it was going to go for at least 3 hours. They had a lot of other stuff too. I hope they did well.

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I read your post incorrectly. Don't take the $40 as an insult.

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I didn't take it as an insult, more as joking around wink

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Thanks DC!!! Nice to something nice for someone.

The benefit went really well. I didn't hear how many tickets were sold, but I did hear the the guy who got it was pretty excited to win it and a big time fisherman who will put it to good use.

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Great looking rod,, its nice to see people giving their craft to others to help people in need.

Hats off to you sir.

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Upnorth, how do you make your wood handles? I realize they are turned on a lathe but how do you drill the hole?

Thanks,

James

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James I chuck them up in the lathe and drill them in the lathe. I have a 4 jawed chuck and I go pretty slow to make sure it stays on center. Then I put it on a mandrel and chuck the mandrel up in a jacobs chuck and put a center in the other end of the mandrel. I hope that makes sense.

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This may make more sense.... the power end of the lathe is the head stock the other end is the tail stock. Insert in the tail stock a Jacobs chuck with a drill bit the size you need. Chuck up the piece in the head stock, turn it slowly as speed will cause the bit to 'wonder' and drill off center. Keep the flutes of the drill bit clean and you should have a nice hole in the handle.

Think all of us use mandrels to shape the wood or cork handles. It is much easier to do this than to try to shape on the rod. After you have finished the turning, shaping and sanding, remove the piece from the mandrel, ream to the diamater you need, then attach the piece to the rod blank. A whole lot easier than some of the books try to make of it.

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Ex machinist here, sometimes hard to put myself in the shoes of others blush

But the truth is some turn the handle and drill the hole in the same operation without the mandrels(basically a straight shaft with small hole on one end for a center from the tailstock) and then use a parting tool to cut it off. Problem with that is that the hole from drilling is not always exactly concentric(on the same center) with the outside. Depending on how much it is off may or may not be an issue. If you are as fussy as I am, I like things as exact as possible.

Keeping the RPM down is not as critical on keeping the drilling straight as how fast you feed the drill to the wood. Better to keep the RPM up a little and feed it slower. Pushing too hard is what causes it to go off center. Wood unlike metal has soft and hard spots and if you push too much it will wander to the softer side and then you are off center.

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Since I haven't really done a lot of lathe work, at least for many years (only shop class), (I'm 45, Dooh!), I'm not sure what your describing but I'll google it for my own information. I actually figured you would have drilled the hole first then mounted it on the lathe so you knew it would be centered. I don't have a lathe and have never built a rod let alone a handle. I just like the thought of a light weight handle made of wood. I wonder about the wood getting slick but would think the sensitivity would be great and they look very nice.

I am hoping the new Bass Pro shop in Des Moines, Ia. will offer a rod building class at some point. I would rather not venture into making a jig or anything else before I view it somewhere first. I'm a DIY guy, sometimes at a greater expense but you all know how that is or you wouldn't be reading this. smile

Thanks for the info,

James

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I have a lot of people think that varnished wood would (say that out loud wink ) be slippery, but all I have to do is bring the a finished rod and did the handle in water and their hand and then give them the rod. It takes that thought away in a hurry. In truth it is probably less slippery than cork or foam. Think about it for a minute here, it doesn't absorb any water.

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I remember reading your response to the "slippery" question in another post after I saw your handles the first time. Do you sell them?

James

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I really don't sell them. I do build for other people at times, but it is not a business for me.

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I C, well don't be suprised if I ask you some time. I would make a donation to charity for one if this works. They're a real nice touch to seperate custom, from off-the-shelf rods.

James

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