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jimmy40

sheet rocking garage??

16 posts in this topic

I am planning to sheetrock my garage, I have a question about the garage door rails, do I take them off or sheetrock around them. If I take them off how do you adjust them? Do I have to take the whole garage door down and put it back up? I would really like some ideas on how to go about this?Thanks in advance jimmy40.

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i would sheetrock around them. its a paid to take the door down, then back up. Alot of times they are mounted to a 2x4 that frames around the inside of the garage door, the people sheetrock up to the 2x4. Im not sure if thats your case or not.

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If you remove them and rock then you're going to have to figure out how to get the door back in place by the 1/2inch or so that the rock takes. Do you have that much play in the brackets that hold the rails? If you rock to the edge you may end up having moisture problems when the rain sqeaks around the corner.

Fogetaboutit

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insulate insulate insulate the walls! I wish my builder wouldve

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?-- How are your brackets mounted now-- To the rafters or to a 2x4 over the rafters. Do the brackets extent above the rafters?

I have been doing sheetrock for 20 years. If they are mounted to the bottom of the rafters. just go ahead and close the garage doors. Have a stocket wrench or cordless set up for the size of the Lag Screws. There might be 2 different sizes. 1 size for the Lag Screws that go into the rafters and another for where the bracket connects to the the rail. Loosing(do not take apart) the the bracket to rail screws first. Then the Lag Bolts connect to the rafters. The Bracket assembly should fold over with ease then. IF you have a garage door opener you can do the same, But you need to rest the garage opener on a ladder. When you start to sheetrock, you will need to take measurement's to put the lag bolts in the same exact place. You should be using 5/8" sheetrock , you may need to get longer lag bolts. You'll have to measure the bolt's in place now and try using at least 1.5"- 2" lag bolts. If you get the lag bolts back in the same place you shouldn't have to worry about making any adjustments to anything. Done 1000's of garage's this way and have never had a problem.

email me if you need more info. robinson@lakedalelink.net

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thanks guys for your help, I looked into it more and i will only have to mess with the garage door opener and and the the bracket on the ceiling. My side rails are on a 2x4 and i am just going to paint that. I am planing on insulating it good. Thanks again.

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While you guys are talking about rocking garages, what are your thoughts about using 1/2" or 5/8" for the ceiling? 2' OC trusses. I know 5/8" is called for, but if just for a garage... I think I asked this before somewhere, but always interested in opinions. I am not sure if I will tape yet, prolly will. Would the sag be that bad? or should I just do 5/8" when I do do it. Thanks, sorry to hijack thread, but it looked like it was done anyway wink

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My honest Opinion-- There ain't much price difference in the 1/2" rock compared to 5/8" rock -- and in the long run you would be happier with 5/8" rock. (1/2 will sag alot over time)

My second honest opinion- Why Tape it? IF code doesn't call for it. Find a nice cheap paint and just paint it-- Would look alot better than having a tape garage.

Last I heard- Anypart of the garage ceiling that is sheetrocked- those walls have to be rock to- but I don't know about being taped also.

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I'd go with 5/8th on the ceiling and I'd tape it. Humidity levels inside the garage will climb pretty high, that'll increase the chance of sagging.

I'd also pull the brackets on the vertical tracks and rock right up to the jambs. Some guys like osb on the wall with the door, some like it rocked, in both cases use a J bead to finish off the edge. There is no chance of that getting wet because you should have the stops w/weather strip over the jamb.

On the ceiling I'd cut out the hanger for the track. All bracing for that hanger is above into the ceiling with nothing but a 2x4 protruding down. Very clean look and less headaches come time to finish the ceiling.

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I'm finding with my finished garage, that if I don't constantly keep it heated, my seams always crack anyways.

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you could use 1/2" no-sag sheetrock. Rated for that span, but wont sag like regular 1/2" and is WAY lighter than 5/8".

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Surface Tension, Won't the mud crack in the garage as most are only heated as needed. Perhaps there is a better product out there now but when I did my garage it looked good for the first year or so and then it just suddenly cracked on almost every seam. I asked a friend and he chalked it up to hot cold cycles.

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Yep-- Heat-cold will crack the taping in a garage-- Save money don't tape if not needed. Just paint it.

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I just finished the ceiling. Not sure if I will tape it. May just do the screw holes. And Paint it. This is a Man cave not for the women. As long as it is heated and has lots of cold beer in the fridge right?

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