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BassProAddict

CSI Minnesota: Here's a brain twister

62 posts in this topic

Case:

My baitcasting rig always snaps in mid flight making me lose my entire rig (mostly Carolina's).

Gear:

Abu Garcia Premier reel, G.Blanks rods (2) and Spiderwire Braid (3), Tru Tungsten sinkers, Gamakatsu Hooks,SPRO swivels, Bass Pro Shops weight stoppers, beads and clackers.

Scenario and History:

I purchased an Abu Garcia Revo Premier on [YouNeedAuthorization]. It had some drag issues so I sent to Abu Garcia for repair and they were gracious enough to send me a brand new one.

Fact 1: It's a brand New Reel

I first used a 6'6" G.Blanks casting rod , a repaired one (tip replaced professionally) in throwing shakey heads, Texas Rigs and eventually C-Rigs. I then started to lose my gear when casting. The line would snap in mid-flight (12lb Spiderwire Braid) which made me transfer the reel to another rod.

Fact 2: I changed rods

The line snapping continued to happen on the next trip/s. Naturally, I look into the line as the next culprit.I switched lines and spooled with Spiderwire Camo (although lighter at 10lbs, due to a different reason).

Fact 3: I changed line

You guessed it right, the line snapping happened again on the next few trips which drove me to look at the Carolina components. Everything seemed in order and were of good quality.

Scene of the crime:

Busted line after the bobber stop. This is significant becausr it eliminates the following possibilities:

-I was suspecting the level wind eye to be abbrasive but then again, the rig doesn't make it's way back into the reel.

-I suspected that it was the repaired rod but as mentioned, I changed rods and since the line break was after the stopper, that part doesn't even get near the rod tip.

Theory:

The bobber stop makes the Tru Tungsten weight scrape the line with higher frequency thereby degrading the line.

What's your take on this dastardly crime?

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BPA- I have a lot of theories.. But they are just that, theories..

A)12 lb is too light. That small a diam. just does not work well on baitcasters. It digs into its self and thus causes backlashes. When reel backlases with mono, the mono stretches, and usually doesnt break. When you backlash with fused or braided line, it just flat out cuts its self. Tah-tah to said lure. Your making it worse because the sinker on a carolina rig is heavier, and a carolina rig is already hard to cast in the first place. I personally dont rig a baitcaster with anything less than 30 lb braid for that very reason.

B) well to be honest, I like theory A well enough that I dont really have a theory B.. unless your line isnt really breaking its either just pulling through the gap of the hook or your knot if failing.

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Are you sure your not backlashing it in mid-flight causing the line to snap?

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This happened a lot a few years ago when spiderwire fusion was a big deal. If you let superline(more pronounced with lighter versions) get slack in it, then snap it tight, it has a tendency to break. I suspect this is happening when you cast the heavy carolina sinker. If my theory is correct, you won't have a problem if you use a long sweeping motion to cast the rig. My solution would be heavier braid if you insist on using braided line. Good luck.

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Aha! The CSI guys have got it figured, I think.

Deitz: Yes I backlash every once in a while but I thought that was memore than the gear.

CAMAN: When I do backlash, it is in midflight and lose the rig during that backlash. I do lose some rigs even without a backlash but not as frequent as when there is a backlash.

Superduty: I've just about given up on all non-braid lines except my 17lb fluoro on my Viento.I think I do wanna spool heavier now on my Carolina.

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Hiya -

The fellas have it right on. Superline has zero stretch, and when it stops dead in mid-air not too tough to generate enough force to pass its break strength. Muskie guys learned this the hard way when superline first came out - we'd spool up with 30 lb superline because we'd all used 36 Dacron our whole lives, then the first bad backlash we got would put a muskie lure into orbit when the line snapped.

If you're going to use superline, step up to at least 20# test on baitcasters. 20's fine if you're careful. If you want to go lighter, use spinning gear. Otherwise, mono, fluoro, or copoly for anything under 20# on baitcasting gear.

Look at the bright side - learning this with a C-rig is a lot cheaper than with a $30 muskie lure... smile

Cheers,

Rob Kimm

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Multiple choice for the culprit:

A.Line

B.Reel

C.Rig

D.Rod

E.Angler

Let's hear it fellas!

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E. for choice of A. wink

Go by line diameter for braid instead of # test.

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I choose A.C.E.

Its a combination of. Line is too small, rig is hard to cast.

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I had the same thing happening when I started to use Tungsten weights to C-rig, it was driving me crazy. Here is how I solved the problem. No glass or plastic beads any longer, the tungsten was cracking or chipping the beads, which then frayed or cut the braided line. I was using a neop. bobber stop to protect the bead but it still was cracking. Now I rig my C-rigs without a bead of any type and use a single barrel jig rattle between the weight and swivel. With the barrel rattle you still get noise and if I feel that I do not need the clacking or rattle noise when fishing clear lakes I just clip of the stem off the rattle and still have the rubber rattle collar there to protect the swivel knot from getting damaged by the tungsten weight hitting it. Problem solved it has not happen since I changed my way of rigging.

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I had similar issues, but I use the force beads now.

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A. 12lb is great for a spinning rig not for your carolina rod. Check out the Clearance sections at honker hill and the like. Great deals on Ugly braid so you can upgrade and quit snapping C-Rigs.

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If it is the line change that's necessary, what's the minimum braid for baitcaster and maximum test poundage for C-rigging?

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in my opinion yes. Not totally needed but I think a baitcaster will perform better for that application.

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I have had this happen to me.

First of all Fireline has this problem and Berkley knows about it and is why they now have a round super braid.

I found that when I would cast, at times there would be loose line on the spool right after I started to real in. Then if I were to cast farther on the next cast, The spool would have a slight overrun at the point of the loose line from the last cast, which would cause the spool to stop and start again and shock the line causing it to break. I have only had this happen with 3/4oz and up on long casts but it has happened to often. Once is enoph. Oh and that was with 30lb test.

So, I'm with Superduty on this one.

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I'm getting a lot of great reviews on Sufix. I've never used this before. Any of y'all got experiences on it?

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I like sufix a lot, I wished I had it on all of my reels I have braid on. It casts great and is very soft. I have some power pro 40lb on a few reels its good but kind of rough compared to sufix.

I kind of have a problem with Power Pro I would like to see what some of you think. Last night I was throwing a 1/4oz swim jig with 40lb power pro. First thing I want to say is, I have been using baitcasters for a long time, over 8 years. I consider myself a decent caster but I usually used 14-17lb mono until this year on all most all of my baitcasters.

So I was going along last night making nice long casts but not really horsing it, then all of sudden I get a backlash out of know where. It had me puzzled no wind and I wasn't even getting close to getting backlashes on my other casts. Then right before dark I switched baits to a heavier 1/2oz spinnerbait and I forgot to tighten down the clutch. I go to cast and get a backlash real quick. I pulled the line out reeled it in under tension, tightened down the clutch and it happened, I got about 4 backlashes in a row until I had the clutch tightened all the way down and all the breaks on. So I'm getting like 25 yard casts feeling frustrated looking around making sure nobody saw the great casting display I just put on. Then I go to make the last cast of the night and bang another backlash. I picked it out and just went back to the dock. It felt like I had a case of the golf shanks.

I don't really know what was going wrong. I'm thinking that with the first backlash it must have done something to the line deeper on the spool then what I was seeing. I'm pretty sure I pulled enough of the tangled line out before I tried casting again, I don’t know. Anyone have some ideas on what happened.

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It is a sad day in the Moddog house hold. My 20 year old Shimano Bantom 1000 is now spare parts. A bearing on the left side of the spool gave out. If the screws are the same, my Bantam 50 will live again.

I don't think it is the line!!!

It sounds to me like your trying to throw a parachute or your thumb took the day off.

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On the subject of casting, how do you cast a C-rig? Do you cast far and really swing hard?

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Now that I think of it. 40lb test isn't what I would use to throw 1/4oz lures. Are you fishing near submerged trees? Are you useing a EX-Heavy fast rod?

I'm throwing 1/2oz and 3/4oz swimjigs on 14lb test fireline (Med/heavy rod) and 1/4oz swimjigs on 10lb power pro (Med rod). Just because these tournament fisherman like to get there Bass off the hook within 3 sec of hook set, it doesn't mean it is the best way to catch Bass.

If you are going to use 40lb test line I would say; learn to flip and pitch.

Some of you Bass guys are so over the top!

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