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Wheelhouse - trailer and shell

21 posts in this topic

I'm looking for someone to build a wheelhouse 8 x 16 drop down trailer and insulated aluminum exterior shell with rubber roof. One man door - a window on each side and double doors in the rear. Spray foamed ceiling/walls/floor. I would finish the interior myself. Any ideas where I could start looking and about what it would cost?? Thanks.

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I would bet its gonna be 4 to 5 grand

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I would bet its gonna be 4 to 5 grand

atleast prolly more with the things you want tho

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try soderbloom's they make exactly what your looking for. not far from duluth I believe.

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Jay won't be mfg Aluma-lite houses 'til July or early August. He's in the process of getting his new designs ready for market. What you're looking for is definitely something that Jay could build for you and on an aluminum frame to boot! I'd suggest you contact him and get an idea of what he'll have to offer and get on the list. He's a great guy to deal with, not one that'll try and screw ya over. And yes, You're lookin' at 4-5k for what you're looking for. Phred52

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I will be picking up my brand new 8'x 15' V-front "shack rack" shell at the end of next week. I'm pretty excited. I'll post some pics when it's done.

It includes the trailer, steel studs, 3 windows, 1 walk through door, and smooth aluminum sheeting. I will finish the inside myself as well. The quality, ease of operation, and technology of the shack rack is second to none! You can't compare ANYTHING on the "fish house" market to it.

If you were to get a 8x14 square front shell from him it would be around $4600. He won't build anything over 14' with out a tandem axle (Which is the way it should be! I cant beleive some of these 18'-20' houses going down the road with a single axle.) The tandem will add about another $1200, but it would be all 12V hydrolic. Doing a V-front will add to the cost as well, but he does a "V" and he slopes the top of the front as well to make it go down the highway like a bullet! Just google shack rack and he's got a few pics. Good luck!

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rack shack looks like a nice house. The things i don't like are the steel studs. it depends on how heavy you want to go with your house and i think when you shut your heater off the steel studs will suck in the cold and start to sweat. that will cause the insulation to wick up the sweat and start to mold. just my thoughts

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I completly agree

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Actually guys, the steel studs are not any heavier than a 2x2 wood stud. I will, however, have to add some kind if firring strips which will add a little weight. I have never understood what difference weight makes to a guy who wants a 8'x16' fish house. He's probobly going to pull it with at least a 1/2 ton pickup and by the time he can get it on the lake, it won't matter if it weighs 6000 pounds.

As far as the steel sweating... I guess I see it the opposite. Wood retains moisture, and steel does not. Wood expands and contracts, and steel does not. I have had 3 wood studded houses, and on those really cold nights, you could see (and feel) a frost line wherever there was a stud. I'm not saying steel won't do this too, I'm just saying. I never had any major problems with wood framed houses, but I have had warping, sagging, and rotting issues that simply annoyed me, and would have maybe become major over time. Have you ever seen a late model camper that uses wood studs? Maybe the old ones did, but I dont think any of the new ones do. I think they use all steel and aluminum now-a-days. I could be wrong on that too.

I guess, in the end, you just gotta do what works best for you. Just wanted to share some of my experiences and a few opinions. Take 'em or leave 'em.

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I like the steel/aluminum stud idea. A friend made a skid house last year using steel studs with aluminum siding. Spray foamed and finished with a knotty pine interior.

We stayed 4 days on LOTW when it was really cold in Jan. and never noticed any frost where the studs were. A 12v fan helps keeps the moisture from breathing and heating.

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Steel and aluminum studs are great as long as they have the spray foam sprayed over them.

If you plan on finishing them off?? be prepared. Every screw that you put in them from the inside will frost up and will leave wet marks on the wood below as they will drip and create moisture!

It will also take twice as long to finish off because you will need to pre-drill every hole for each screw before you screw them in.

If you need to add a furring strip to eliminate the moisture ??? then you may just as well use the 2x2 studded walls.

I have had 1-aluminum studded house, and 2 wood studded houses,

( all spray foamed) and have never had any issues with my wood studs frosting up.

If the exterior is sealed up tight and correctly, no reason NOT to use wood studs. My 2 cents!

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how much does it cost to foam the bottom of a 6.5x16 wheelhouse who does it?

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it depends how thick you want it. just call someplace that does spray foam they should be able to give you a estatment

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hey tyler how thick would you go with the foam on the floor?

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also would like to know how thick everyone goes with the foam on the floor

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also would like to know how thick everyone goes with the foam on the floor

I would say that at 1", you should be fine. The spray foam we installed is rated at R-7 per inch. (2", at an R'14), (3", at an R-21).etc,etc. You get the point. I wouldn't put any more that 2" in the floor.

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i think ours has 2 inchs on the floor. i would go with atleast that maybe even 3. it costs a little more but having a house that holds the heat really well is nice. then you dont have to listen to the heater run all the time.

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i think ours has 2 inchs on the floor. i would go with atleast that maybe even 3. it costs a little more but having a house that holds the heat really well is nice. then you dont have to listen to the heater run all the time.

Seeing that heat rises, I would focus the most insulation on the walls, and ceiling. Even with a fan, the heat will escape up, and not so much down.

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Seeing that heat rises, I would focus the most insulation on the walls, and ceiling. Even with a fan, the heat will escape up, and not so much down.

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hey buck buster, can you spray foam or know a good place to get it done? Just shoot me a email with some info crwinter@tds.net

thanks

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Seeing that heat rises, I would focus the most insulation on the walls, and ceiling. Even with a fan, the heat will escape up, and not so much down.

i didn't say skip out on the walls and ceiling? the floor helps keep the cold from the ice coming in also. personally i would have the entire thing spray foamed that stuff does wonders

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