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bassNspear

Pontiac G6

27 posts in this topic

My wife has this car, and its a 2006. Sounds like the front end is grinding, or when you turn the wheel, it makes a clunking noise. Sounds like its just something that you can keep repacking it, and making sure its lubbed up, but if i remember right, wasnt there a recall on this from GM?

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Sounds about right for GM products.

My guess would be a wheel bearing.

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We have an 06 G6 that we purchased new. We have not had any recalls on this vehicle but I will tell you there are more front end noises and clunks than any other vehicle I have ever owned. My Ford 4X4 has a quiter ride.

I had been a GM guy most of my life but after buying this car I am not surprized that they are heading to bankruptcy. If this is the way they want to build cars I say let them sink.

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Sorry to be all gloom and doom but I will bet you a day on the lake that you have ball joint problems and probably a problem with the steering rack as well. Take it in to a shop that specializes in front ends (not a franchise tire dealer or a shade tree mechanic but an honest to goodness front end specialist) and have them look it over. Lots of complaints about this exact problem. The steering is electric (not hydrolic)sp?

There have beem many instances of these cars suddenly turning to the left all by themselves and the driver having to fight the wheel to keep it straight. SCARY!

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Intermediate steering shaft is the usual culprit. I have 2 of these in my driveway (both daughters own one).

There is no recall but if you have warranty it is covered.

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possibly the wheel bearings also? my moms 2000 grand prix had this problem and it was bearings...

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I had been a GM guy most of my life but after buying this car I am not surprized that they are heading to bankruptcy. If this is the way they want to build cars I say let them sink.

I just called the pope. he assured me that a certain somewhere had not frozen over but they where experiencing unseasonable cool temps! grin

Seriously though, if the noise can be made without the car moving than the intermediate shaft is a good bet. other things like strut bearings/mounts could also be possible. If you have to be moving or the car has to literally rock side to side or the front end has to go up and down than the possibilities are endless. Struts, bushings, ball joints, stabilizer links, stabilizer bars, etc. If you any have to be moving forward and the noise starts at about 30mph and gets progressively louder than one of the wheel bearings might be bad.

Your post was a little unclear as to what and when you are hearing the noise so that should cover all the bases. If you can't figure out anything a good shop will have no problem figuring it out for you. These vehicles are no strangers to pattern failures and the guys in the back should be able to get you in the right direction in no time!

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Airjer, on my particular G6, it's a GT model. Under warranty it had the steering rack, both struts and a tie rod replaced to find the noise. They got most of it so I figured I'd just live with it. Now the current noise is after it's good and hot in stop and go traffic at speeds between 5-30MPH, usually under coast conditions but sometimes under breaking the front springs "pop" and creak when they feel like it. mad There have been a few other issues as well (loose headliner, CD changer with a mind of it's own). It's a good thing this thing runs great and gets good MPG or I'd be really mad. Almost mad enough to look at a Toyota. I said almost wink.

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The ex-wife had an 06 G6, multiple times in the shop for front end repairs. Anything that had to do with the steering to the front wheels. Had it in enough that won the lemon law on the vehicle

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glad im not the only one that has these concurns and loud noises about the car!

Thanks all for sharing!

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I'd get rid of it! The ex bought hers in April 06 and by April 08 it had been in a total of 13 times to have assorted front end stuff replaced. It was always under warranty, things were ok the first 6 months or so then it was in every 4-6 weeks I bet. I don't know my part names, but steering column twice, tie rods. Parts others named in this post were replaced and on and on. Even while in the process of the lemon law decision it went in twice for front end stuff.

The super factory radio had a mind of its own too.

She got smart and grabbed life by the horns after winning

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GM in general seems to be having a lot of trouble with shocks and struts as of late. These kind of things run in spurts but between the newer trucks and cars they start leaking around the 40k mark.

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GM and Dodge just seem to have to many issues for me.

That why I went with a Tundra.

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GM and Dodge just seem to have to many issues for me.

Thats why my next car will be German.

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Thats why my next car will be German.

You might want to reconsider that option as well! whistle

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i had a GM Truck, and went to a ford, alot better.

Were going to try and make it through one more winter with the car, but we will see what happens. Im sure its work sooooooo much to a dealership!

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I'm just the opposite. Never had good luck with Fords. When the quality was ok, the service was terrible.

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i had a Chevy 1500, GMC 1500 and a Avalanche, and now that i bought this ford crew cab, i dont think i can ever get away from a ford!

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inside the cab seems sooooooooo much quiter, and you sit alot higher i think in the fords!

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I would have to agree with that BNS.

Even though I loved the '98 Ranger I had, I also had one bad experience with the dealership that forever tainted my view towards the Ford products. Bad thing was, I went to this dealership because the locals tried pulling a fast one on me to the tune of an extra $1600 in service that they induced on 2 different Ford products.

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ouch, thats sucks.

That is hard to get over, so i can understand where your coming from!

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Originally Posted By: PikeBayCommanche
GM and Dodge just seem to have to many issues for me.

Thats why my next car will be German.

Have fun getting one of those fixed. Or should I say, have fun refinancing your house to be able to pay to get it fixed.

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i had a Chevy 1500, GMC 1500 and a Avalanche, and now that i bought this ford crew cab, i dont think i can ever get away from a ford!

My dads Avalanche is the biggest pile I have ever seen. Shocks, U Joints and a few others I can't remember, but I know there has been a few others. He was always a Ford guy, and said once the Avalanche is paid off- he is going back.

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Same old, same old, Ford vs Chevy vs Dodge.

Been a mechanic for 33 years and have pretty much seen it all. For every story I hear about one brand being better or worse than the other, I just chuckle and recall a similar story with only the makes changed. I've had brand new Fords, brand new Chevies and in my particular case the Fords didnt fare as well. Doesnt mean they are all bad, just the one I had. I currently have an Avalanche and couldnt be happier. My personal experience with this vehicle doesn't mean they are all good, simply that I'm happy with mine.

As far as German cars, there is one brand I refuse to work on. Anyone thats dealt with them before probably has similar feelings. smile

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    • BEFORE BEGINNING

      Before you begin, make sure you have a good strong battery and make sure it's charged up. If you have a bad or weak battery, you may want to replace it because if it doesn't crank good and strong, you are likely to get a low, inaccurate reading. Make sure your engine is warmed up to operating temperature(if possible). About 10 minutes of riding should do.

      First, take out the spark plug and thread in the adapter for the compression tester. Make sure you have the correct size adapter for your particular ATV. Slide your kill switch to the "off" position. Some ATVs won't crank over with the kill switch in the "off" position, so if yours is like this, then you will need to either unhook your ignition coil or ground the end of the spark plug wire to a good ground. You can use a jumper wire with alligator clips on each end to ground it. Next, make sure the throttle is in the wide open position. You can either hold the throttle lever with your thumb or you may be able to tape it or use a zip tie to fasten it to your handlebars to hold it in the wide open position. If you don't have the throttle in the wide open position, you will probably get too low of a reading. Also, if you are testing a newly rebuilt engine, the engine needs to have been run for, at least, 30 or 40 minutes or you will probably get too low of a reading.

      NOTE: Before you begin with the actual test, make sure the threaded adapter is screwed in good and isn't leaking any air out around it.

      ACTUAL TESTING

      With the throttle in the wide open position, push the start button and crank the engine over until the hand on the gauge stops moving. Each time the engine turns over the hand should raise a little more until it reaches the maximum compression of the engine. When it stops, that is your compression reading. This usually takes no more than 10 seconds. Try to avoid cranking an engine for more than 10 seconds at a time as this is hard on the starter and the battery. Now, push the relief valve on your compression gauge and that will reset the hand back to zero. It's a good ideal to repeat the test a couple or three times to make sure you get an accurate reading. On kick start models, it will be the same procedure, but obviously you will be kicking it over instead of using a start button. Worn piston rings and cylinder walls will increase the number of strokes it takes to reach the maximum reading. If you're kicking, it could possibly take as many as 10-20 kicks to get the highest reading.

      THE READING

      You will need to check your repair manual for your particular model for the correct compression specifications. See note below. Usually, an engine will run OK if it has at least 100 PSI of compression. Most engines will have somewhere between 100-250 and some as high as 300 PSI, depending on the engine. Sometimes they will run with under 100 PSI, but usually not very well. If you get a low reading, you can do a "wet test" to try to help determine the problem.

      If your reading is too high, then you probably have carbon built up on your piston and combustion chamber.

      NOTE: You may get a low reading on some engines because some engines have a decompressor assembly built into the camshaft. Check the service manual for your quad to see whether or not your quad has a decompressor assembly built into the cam.

      WET TEST

      If you got a low reading, pour about 1-2 teaspoons of clean motor oil down into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and do the compression test again. If your reading increases, then your rings or cylinder walls are probably worn. If your reading doesn't increase, then it's probably your valves. You could have a bent valve, you may have leaky valve seats, or your valve clearance may not be adjusted properly. Also, low compression can be caused by a blown head gasket.

      CAUSES OF LOW COMPRESSION

      *Worn piston rings or worn or damaged cylinder walls
      *Leaking valves
      *Valve clearance not properly set
      *Blown head gasket

      CAUSE OF HIGH COMPRESSION (stock engines)

      *Carbon buildup in combustion chamber and on piston

      NOTE: Compression testing is a good way to keep track or "gauge" the wear in your engine. When you first get your ATV or when you rebuild the engine in your ATV, you can do a compression test and then later on, you can do them periodically. This will help you determine the wear in your engine each time you do a compression test and will guide you in knowing when your engine needs rebuilding.

      This is about all I can think of. I hope I didn't leave anything out and I hope this helps everyone with their compression tests.
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