Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
Sign in to follow this  
NELS-BELLS

When can I apply crabgrass preventer?

Recommended Posts

I want to apply some lawn fertilizer w/crabgrass preventer and I'm not sure when is a good time to put it down. I know that timing is important. Hopefully I'm not too late. I live in central MN.

Thanks,

Nels

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd put it down this weekend, if you have the time, next weekend at the latest.

If you've never had crabgrass before, don't be too concerned. If you've been infested with it in the past, you might want to put an application down as your second application in mid to late June.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replies.

I got it on last night. Now we need some rain. My lilac bushes have not bloomed yet, so I hope that means that I got it in on time.

Nels

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I was busy Friday night and could not get time to put down the weed and feed. It was windy all weekend and looks to remain windy through the week. Do I need to wait for the wind to die down before putting this stuff down (granular type)? I would hate to kill any of the hostas and other plants we have in various gardens around the house. From the sounds of it it's getting pretty late to be doing this?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I was busy Friday night and could not get time to put down the weed and feed. It was windy all weekend and looks to remain windy through the week. Do I need to wait for the wind to die down before putting this stuff down (granular type)? I would hate to kill any of the hostas and other plants we have in various gardens around the house. From the sounds of it it's getting pretty late to be doing this?

Weed-n-Feed will still work.

What product are you using?

I know Scotts usually has fairly fine particles, which will want to blow around in the wind. If it's a "normal" pellet you can do that if it's a bit windy, you just may have double coverage in some areas.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You'll be fine. You won't get as good of results as if you used a liquid weed control, but that's okay.

You'll have to apply it when the ground is wet right after a rain, an early morning dew, or irrigation run through.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You'll be fine. You won't get as good of results as if you used a liquid weed control, but that's okay.

You'll have to apply it when the ground is wet right after a rain, an early morning dew, or irrigation run through.

Instead of the weed and feed could I use something like Trimec and the a bag of fertilizer I have left over last year. This is my first time trying to take of a lawn, especially since the back yard is all new as of last year. Some areas are still thin and a few spots are bare, but I will address that in a month or two.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ideally both (plus the yard really needs fertilizer asap), but from what I gather I would need a couple different products to do both. I wasn't sure if it's too late to try to tackle crab grass at this point or not.

I would like to be able to try to seed some bare spots in a month or so also, sooner if possible but I don't think it is if I put weed killers down. That may be asking too much?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Depending on what weed killer you're going to use, they will generally not allow seeding for 14-21 days, if not a bit longer.

The crabgrass preventer will stop you from germinating any seed for 6-8 weeks, at least effectively, generally speaking.

Here's what I would do. Quickly get a crabgrass preventer down, they'll have fertilizer with it.

In about 2-3 weeks, spray your yard with a decent broadleaf herbicide. You could do it at the same time as well, but don't use another granular weed-n-feed, because now you're going to double the amount of fertilizer and either you'll burn your yard, or you'll be mowing every night.

Then late summer (end of August) fix your bare spots as you should have SOME weeds under control by now. You'll have weeds again, because anything that's gone to seed (dandelions) will germinate new plants again.

Spray the yard again for weeds right after the first frost. This triggers plants to suck in as much energy to hardy over winter, and you'll get the best kill ratio as the chemical gets quickly taken to the root system.

Fertilize again around the beginning of September, and then mid October.

You'll probably have to spray one more time next spring, but you should be on top of it by then.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

you could put down some pre emergent at a lower rate and then still cover/spot spray your lawn....you would be stopping crabgrass, fertilizing, and killing your weeds all in one shot.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  



  • Posts

    • Yeah, it's not BigDave for nothing there fella!
    • It's dinner and supper!
    • My wife loooves Beets. Here's my recipe Lot of beets, as many as you can fit in to a large boiling pan. .add 1 cup draino .add 1 cup muriatic acid .heat with a blow torch throw off hwy over pass so they get tender under semi truck tries for one hour. Then go get some food and have a Beer! Enjoy! Hate um!      
    • The guy who told me this said teal were in big groups and he saw a few hundred
    • Just cuz they're flying that direction don't mean the migration started!   Summer-like temps again this year for the opener.  I don't think they're bugging out yet.  Last year I saw teal in NE MN in the 3rd week of October! I have enough shells and some calls I suck at blowing, along with decoys that sport my initials and '87 so I guess I'm as ready as every other year!
    • Never heard of one where ya DON'T cook the beets....but who knows? Here's one I used years ago... EASY PICKLED BEETS (1 Quart) 2 bunches small beets – ends trimmed and scrubbed 4 small onions – sliced and separate rings ½ cup liquid from boiled beets ½ cup white vinegar ½ cup honey – go local! ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon cinnamon or cinnamon stick ¼ teaspoon cloves Bring beets and enough water to cover to a boil over high heat.  Reduce to medium and continue to boil for 45 minutes.  With 5 minutes remaining on beets add onion slices.  Drain beets and onions, reserving ½ cup of the liquid, set aside. While the beets and onions cool add beet liquid, vinegar, honey, salt, cinnamon, and cloves to medium sauce pan and bring to a boil. Peel beets (this should be easy once they are cooled), and slice.  Add sliced beets and onions to a Mason jar, or air tight container of your choosing.  Cover beets with boiled liquid, cover, and refrigerate at least 24 hours before eating.  I prefer them after about 72 hours.  
    • If that's lunch, I'd love to see dinner!! 
    • We can't find our recipe for pickled beets. Haven't done this for a couple of years.  Wife and I both certain we didn't cook the beets.....we just packed them in hot jars, poured the brine over, then boiled the sealed jars for 15-20 minutes.  I can't find a recipe that says you don't have to cook beets.  Does any one have such a recipe?  Our brine contained cinnamon sticks and cloves.  I imagine we could just add these ingredients to any regular vinegar/sugar/water brine though.  Mostly just wondering about using raw beats vs uncooked beets.  Thanks...Jim
    • Looks good, for sure. 
    • No, but this is what I would get if I was there. 
  • Our Sponsors