Sinkers always slipping on fireline

[MNSnow]

I can't get my sinkers to stay in place when I use Fireline. Does anyone have a suggestion (besides not to use Fireline). It seems that after every cast the split shot sinker has worked it's way right down next to the jig.

Thanks for any suggestions you can offer.

[tweedlap]

If you need a split shot with a jig you need to fish a heavier jig. Throw the split shots away.

tweed

[Walleye Guy]

I agree with the heavier jig. If you insist on a sinker, put a mono or flourocarbon leader on your Fireline when jig fishing.

[DREZLER]

You could put a baby swivel on your line if you'd like

[JimBuck]

Place a slip-bobber stop just below your split shot. When you put a split shot on, use a pliers or something with a bit more torque to clamp it tight....making sure that your line is in the center of the split shot helps alot as well. I've also attached a split shot directly over the bobber stop knot and that has worked very well. Good luck.

[marshmallow]

Bobber stop knot.. Tiny barrel swivell.. Tiny piece of rubberband in the split of the weight when you crimp it.. I too use fireline on a couple rigs.. You can also use the weights with the rubber inserts..

[broken_line]

wrap the fireline around the sinker and it should hold like its clamped on 2 lines instead of one. oh and super glue your hang man knots!!

[jigginjim]

I do all the above, it all depends on what I'm trying to catch. I use the bobber-stop for lindy rigging to hold the weight in place, wrap the line around twice for shot rigging, I tie on a 3ft piece of mono for clear water jigging.

[pikedreams]

All the above are good options and it's not just superlines but light mono line as well.

The problem is this; over the years they've gotten cheap and are cutting the lead with tin and other metals. The lead used for wheel weights for example is about half tin. It makes it much harder and durable and they don't go flying off at 60 mph.

That's fine for wheel weights but lousey for split shots. The lead /tin mixture also sets up faster and works well in a high speed production setting. The problem is it's too hard.

The harder alloy doesn't grip the line as well as pure lead. In fact if you sqeeze it on hard enough it will actualy dent or kink the line and create a weak spot where the line will then break under pressure.

Pure lead shot is tough to find these days because of it's toxicity and most domestic manufacturers won't work with it because of the liability.

The only one around anymore is the Thill pure lead split shots. It's poured overseas and is made of pure lead. Pure lead is very soft and gently grips the line and conforms to it without causing any damage. And yes it's a bit more expensive but not too bad.

I've used them for years and not had any problems. You simply press the weight on with your thumb and forefinger and that baby stays glued.