Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .

    You know what we all love...

    When you enchant people, you fill them with delight and yourself in return. Have Fun!!!

Sign in to follow this  

Sprinkler system?

Recommended Posts

I am going to install my own sprinkler system. Poly or PVC pipe? and who makes the best heads for homeowner use? Orbit, Rainbird, or should I spend the money for hunter heads.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I installed mine 5 years ago using quality poly pipe for the supply lines in each zone and PVC to build the manifolds. Also used Orbit heads with no problems. I do know people who have switched over to Orbit from Hunter and are also impressed. My .02

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Do it right and use 1" poly and hunter heads. Poly is easier to put in and will flex more if any water was left in over the winter. I did mine myself 7 years ago and haven't replaced a head. Also make sure you use different nozzles for full circles, half circles and quarter circles. I used 3,2 and 1.5 respectively and has worked well.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I put mine in myself 8+ years ago.

I used 1" Poly and Orbit heads and valves with a rain bird timer.

I made my own PVC manifolds.

I plumbed it with a 1" water supply coming out of each side of my house, this way I keep the pressurized water going out of the house to a minimum. It cost more since I needed 2 back flow preventers, but it is well worth it for me. Most people do not design the system like this.

My house was new at the time so I used a trencher. If I had the choice I would rent the ditch witch and pull the 1" poly rather than trench it.

My neighbor has hunter heads and valves.

I noticed that the orbit puts more water out faster than the hunter heads. (Good?? bad??) Because of this I think the hunters can have more heads per zone.

I think the hunter probably is allot better quality but I have not had any problems with the orbits either.

My neighbor hasn't had any big problems either.

This year 2 of his valves stuck open but he just took them apart and cleaned them out. The valves I have do not come apart so I would be replacing mine if that happened, but it hasn't happened to me yet.

I would get a remote control timer if you can.

Those are worth the money when testing adjusting your system.

Design it so it is easy to blow out in the fall and you won’t have any problems with it at all. I have an air chuck plumbed into the supply line right where it branches off the water line inside the basement. This blows all water out of the lines and I keep the valve to the air chuck open all winter incase someone decides to turn on the water when they shouldn’t.

My advice is;

If you want to brag about it get the hunter.

If you want to save some money use the orbit or rainbird.

From my experience there is really no difference in usefulness or maintenance.

I hear toro is pretty good too?

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hunter Hunter Hunter!!! I had a company come out and run the poly pipe into the ground with a Ditch Witch (Had a bad dream about running over the electrical service feed). I did the rest of the install.

I don't want to knock others experiences because some of it has to do with the installation. But I went with Hunter and I've had 0 problems in almost 8 years. Not one head has been replaced. My neighbor next door has replaced 7 or 8 Orbit and Toro heads. More than likely he got some dirt in the lines with these and that's where his problems are coming from. But I do believe there is a difference.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

1" comes in 300 foot rolls at Menards for $43ea, I ordered my stuff from sprinklerwharehouse dot com free shipping over $149 and way cheap on hunter and rainbird stuff.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Depending on how big your yard is check into MP rotators. Very nice heads. I moving part per head vs 9-16 moving parts in rotors. Advantages of Hunter are warranty, and quality of the spring in the head. Eventually dirt/sand debris will get into the seal of the head scoring it as it goes up and down eventually making the spring work harder to get the head to pop back down after a cycle. Eventually the spring fails and you end up with heads that are stuck up to be eaten by the lawn mower.

Internally all rotors work on basically the same principal, whether it be Nelson, Orbit, Rain Bird, Hunter or Toro. Where the head is manufactured has a lot to do with performance and dependability in my opinion.

1" poly will be fine in 99% of residential yards, if you are making big runs sometimes 1 1/4 is used on the main lines.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • I wouldn't count on open water for the opener just yet. As of Friday, there was  a good 24" of solid ice yet to melt.
    •   Took a page out of sniper’s book! Had I known what would go down after I woulda let this guy walk though... I’ll get a story up later. 21.6 pounds, 9 inch beard, 3/4 inch spurs.
    •   That was quick!
    •   Ha, that's easy. Move to Florida!
    • It would be interesting to know what that bill will be if you don’t mind sharing.   I bought a used Ice Cabin several years ago and had the same issue.  The previous owner didn’t do the grease maintenance according to specs.  Once those things get behind it’s tough to correct.   I went through the whole heat it up/wiggle/pound/swear the things off both sides then did what your welding shop did.  Worked real nice after that.  Took a couple half days to complete though and thankfully I have the tools to do it.  I can’t tell you how long it will last though since I sold it not long after fixing it.     I did stress the importance of keeping up that grease to the new owner!   Glad you got yours taken care of.
    • I just run to my dealer and buy the Suzuki stuff. It's a little more pricey but I don't sweat the extra $5-$10 per year. It cost me $50 for 4L of oil and the filter. I did the lower unit in the fall so I don't remember the gear oil cost.   Mine is a 2009 DF90, so pretty similar. Make sure that when you grease all of the zerks to look in your manual. There is one that you won't see until you tilt your motor all the way up. There is also one below the shift linkage that you can't reach unless you take off the lower skirts on both sides. There's about 10-12 screws holding the skirt on both sides.   Also, be VERY careful when putting the skirt back on. I just did mine again last night and accidentally pinched an air hose near the bottom of the skirts. It cut the hose in half when I put the last screw in place!
    • picking up the house tonight from a welding shop in town, guy said they get new houses that axles seize up on, sounded like they heated it up, broke it free, sand it down, grease it, add groves and it should be set. kind of scared to see how much they're going to charge me...    
    • I am new to the 4 stroke world and need to change the fluids in my 05 Suzuki 115 four stroke. What does everyone use for oil, filter, and lube? I was planning on using Mobil 1 or Amsoil 10-40 for the engine oil and the Lucas 90w gear oil for the lower unit. I don't know what filter to get. I know Fram has a filter that fits the motor. I run synthetic oil in my vehicles along with the filters designed for synthetic. I change my own oil and figure the peace of mind is worth the extra few bucks. Any opinions? 
    • Gobbler down...
    • Even with all the snow gone, they still dont want to come out in the fields. Even this morning i really got on the slate, this one come in at 640. Now im cayching brown trout. Good luck fellas