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SSSTaxidermy

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About SSSTaxidermy

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    Sr HotSpotOutdoors.com Family
  • Birthday 09/14/1976

Profile Information

  • Location:
    St. Cloud / Bejou
  1. taxidermist school

    Slimmgrissly hit it on the head if your looking to get into the art of Taxidermy. I started by practicing on whatever I could get my hands on first. I purchased some books and vids to help me along the way. I finally became decent enough and knowledgeable enough, and least in my option, to go to taxidermy school. Here I was able to hone in my skills and techniques, which has brought me to where I am today in taxidermy. Be patient...but I think its best to have a base under yourself, do your homework first so-to speak. Then look at 1 on 1 or class setting taxidermy school. I think you will be much better off. It worked for me I know and i was happy I took that approach. Good luck.
  2. Taxidermy fix?

    Your best bet is to return and ask questions to the taxidermist that mounted your bird. Pending what he had to work with, he might have followed certain reference materials. I'm not sure. That is where you need to start, which in my opinion is only fair to the taxidermist as well. That is the way I'd want to be treated... As for your mount, there are ways and techniques we rehydrate mounts and modify successfully...However this isn't easy at all if you bring it to another taxidermist. We don't use the same materials, techniques or process, and the re-hydrating method could have an adverse reaction on your mount. (Chemical reactions). So keep that in mind if you decide to bypass the taxidermy shop that did it in the first place. Good Luck
  3. Taxidermist, let's show off our work

    Here is another kids crappies I did. This was his first fish as well.
  4. Taxidermist, let's show off our work

    A musky replica. Client caught it on Lake Miltona by Alex
  5. Taxidermist, let's show off our work

    A kids first fish I did for him. I love doing mounts for kids / youths. The look on their faces when thet step into my shop to pick up their mount is nothing short of priceless!
  6. Turkey Fan Plaque?

    My Custom Minnesota Panel. Gonna add a picture just below the fan and include a brass engraved memorable plate above the beard
  7. Bear Hide

    I'd be fine with that if ac777 wishes. I'm open to whatever
  8. Bear Hide

    No Problem. If you don't have any takers on anything. I'd be interested in the skull if that hasn't been spoken for. Just as long as long as wasn't shot in the head of course.
  9. Bear Hide

    The hide, in my estimation should be good. As long as it has been in a bag and froze the whole time. Some of the "newer" freezers are harder on stuff because they are frost free. But I'd guess that it should be fine. You will have no issues "gifting" it. However, if you plan on selling any parts, sure you are up to speed with regulations on the sale of bear parts. It varies by state and is not allowed in some states, and only certain parts of some bear can be sold. I'm a taxidermist so I follow and understand these regulations very well. If a rug seems to be too much work and expensive, you could always do a soft tan wall hanger...Then also have the skull beetled...and if you really want to have something unique, have the skull camo dipped. Got any questions let me know
  10. SHED HUNTING THREAD - PICs INCLUDED

    First of all, the first thing you want to do is try to get each horn off. There is a bunch of tissue/meat behind horned animals such as Longhorns, Antelope, Dahl Sheep. Antlered animals dont have this, such as deer, elk, moose, etc. If you don't, you will not only get grease running down onto your mount after time, plus that tissue back there will rot/stink and could attract bugs. So you will want to get this off. Not sure how much expirance you have with European Mounts, but here is the jist of a process you could do. The easiest way I get animal horns off is to sweat them off. Meaning, tie them up in a plastic bag, and keep in a heated area. After a day or two, pending how dry they are or whatever, you might be able to twist them right off. These can easily be attached later when it is complete. Then you can go ahead with cleaning the skull. I would suggest NOT boiling. Boiling is pretty much the worst way to go. Better would be Beetles, maceration, even simmering. Additionally boiling can cause the skulls to crack and cook the fat into the skull and also break down the bone structure. At most simmer not boil. I would also steer away from using bletch, as this will eat away the bone and could leave it chalky or flakey. Pending how much flesh is remaining, baking soda will help break that up safer, to were you will either be able to use water pressure or air pressure to remove all flesh. Second of all, I'd be careful boiling (Heating) peroxide. Chemical reactions can take place even with the pan u possibility be using for boiling. Be VERY careful with H202 (peroxide) and heat......VERY flammable, EXPLOSIVE! I'm not sure if you get this same type of reaction from the weaker peroxide you find in drug stores. But I know the much stronger stuff I use for skulls, can't be heated. I'm not saying MoJoe's advice won't work for you, but I do hundreds of skulls a year. I know there is more than one way to skin a cat, but thru experiences this is what I know. I don't use simmering, maceration practices anymore, as I've migrated, for a number of years now, to dermisted beetles. If you got any questions let me know Just be careful...and good luck.
  11. Taxidermist

    Clark37 - if ur still looking for a good taxidermist, or anybody else for that manner. I've got a recommendation. If ur interested in who, price & turnaround time. Send me an email and I can let you know. Mason27 at gmail dot com
  12. All these mentioned tips above, are nothing short of excellent to ensure your doing "your" part in the mounting process. Note from admin, please read forum policy before posting again, thank you.
  13. To the person...............

    Sorry to hear about your loss... Here is something you might want to do? I had a buddy having some problems of getting his hunting shack broken into, and trail camera's stolen. So what he did was: He pained all his trail camera boxes bright RED...so whomever was roaming on his land, could clearly see his trail camera box..Along with the brightly painted box, he labeled it, Camera #2 or Camera #3. Even though you may only have 1 camera around. This will get them thinking, that they are being watched by more than 1 camera. And are caught with their hands in the cookie jar. This fixed all this issues.
  14. Trail Camera

    Yes Code-Man...Had that same mineral station for 7 yrs or better. The deer have pawed such a big hole over the years, it holds water all spring, and a good portion of the summer. Should be like drinking Gatorade for them right? LOL
  15. Trail Camera

    Here are a couple trail camera pictures I pulled off my camera last weekend. You will have to disregard the date and time stamp...as I must have turned off my trail camera for some reason and it reset. Lots of deer movement on the camera. First Buck on Camera...Very Short G2 Pic # 2 of short G2 buck Different buck side view. A Couple young bucks Bach'ed up A doe with her 3 fawns. Hopefully all 3 are bucks. The same bach group, with the larger of the 2 w/o velvet This is my crocked brow tine buck.