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BIG DS

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About BIG DS

  • Rank
    Sr HotSpotOutdoors.com Family
  • Birthday 05/25/1970

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  • ICQ
    321-854-026

Profile Information

  • Location:
    Kato area Ice
  1. Strikemaster auger problem

    not all the older augers had a throttle return spring. It was left up to the governor to push the throttle plate shut once the engine was running.
  2. Bad Transducer?

    Sounds like the same issue that mine had last year. Changed the ducer and all problems were solved.
  3. ice auger muffler?

    find your nearest Stens dealer. Usually small engine repair shops use Stens. Stens is a parts warehouse for small enginge parts. I have put a frew mufflers on in place of the spark arrestors and after re-tuning the carb it ran like a thief in the night, but half the volume.
  4. strikemaster problem

    Is the vent in your fuel cap plugged? If it has the old steel cap yet, if you turn the vent all the way open it doesn't always vent properly. If you chose to clean the filter, do not pull the line off the tank! The line fits on the filter in the tank, and then the barb on the filter is pushed back through the hole in the tank and the hose actually is used as the seal. They are a serious pain to put together after you take them apart. I have put new gas lines on plenty of these and fought with every one!
  5. Rear End

    Quote:Otherwise, a dealer should be able to tell you with your VIN. Call your local Dodge dealer and give him your VIN and you will have your answer in moments. Yes they had a problem with the rear-ends. The bearings went out. Some as soon as 15k to 20k miles. The problem was they were assembled and bearing pre-load and gear-lash was set while the axle assembly was still hot from the tubes being welded into the center section. When they cooled off, the tolerances were all wrong. Yours may just be worn out, though. That issue usually showed up before 50k miles.
  6. 2003 Chev Silverado 1500 4x4

    Quote: In your case you made it a 100k on the O.E. ones so why not roll with those. Also the big reason the aftermarket shocks and struts tend to carry a lifetime warranty. They wear out faster than the O.E. so you can keep coming back and paying labor for new ones.
  7. Wheel alignment

    Quote: We remember the issues with firestone and ford explores and air pressure. Wasn't this issue due to Ford's recommeded tire inflation for proper ride comfort rather than optimum fuel economy and tire wear? As I recall the tire failiures were due to internal friction due to underinflation. That was Ford's fault and Firestone took the fall. Little industry secret there. Since then the auto manufactures have made their inflation recommendations based on saftey, max tread wear, and max fuel economy.
  8. It fixed itself........

    Should be Throttle Body Injection (often mistaken for a carb) on it. Don't be suprised if you pull the tank down and need to replace a chunk of the wiring harness as well as the sending unit and lock ring that holds the pump in place. The fuel filter should still be checked again as the sock on the fuel pump may be deteriorated enough that the fitler is restricted by rust again.
  9. I have not done it personally, but have seen it done. The power point is just sharpened mild steel. Nothing special. I sharpen them quite often for customers if they are dull and all I use is a Nicholson flat file.
  10. auger blade sharpening recommendations

    A vice, a flat file, and some time will do wonders.
  11. Atv Tires/tubes

    Tubes help...but won't cure a puncture. Slime won't seal a tire with a hole in it already. It's designed to seal around whatever punctured the tire or seal the leak until you can fix it. If you elect to go with tubes, use baby powder between the tube and tire. I would still suggest using the slime. The slime equalizes in tire at high speeds. Or at least it is supposed to. I have tubes in mine with slime in the tubes. I have never felt a shake caused by the slime. Can't have too much insurance. I don't know anyone that carries a spare on the trail.
  12. snowblower electric start

    Depending on the size of the motor on the blower, there could be two or four bolts holding the starter on. Two are easy to get at and two are kinda tough. They do come loose and cause this problem. If someone has cranked away trying to get the blower to start, the tabs that the bolts screw into will break also. Have seen a couple that way this year.
  13. Vex (FL-8)

    Usually a transducer issue.
  14. Jiffy 8" 3hp throttle spring issue.

    The spring that you are talking about is the throttle/governor spring. A couple of things you can do to help rememdy the problem. First, get a can of carb cleaner and spray off the outside of the carb and then remove the throat gaurd on the carb and clean out the inside. Cycle the throttle shaft back and forth as you are spraying it off to make sure it is loose. They tend to get gummed up from the oil residue left behind. Then, looking at the side of the motor with the throttle lever to your left hand, there should be two screws on the side of the carb. The left screw is the low speed screw and the right is the high speed screw. If there are red caps on the screws pull them off with a needle nose pliers and save them. Turn the left screw clockwise until the motors starts to sound like it is going to die. Then turn it counter-closckwise about 1/4 of a turn. That should get you real close on the idle mixture. Then try throttling it to wide open and see what happens. You may also need to turn the high speed screw open (counter-clockwise) a bit too. The best way to tune the high speed is on the ice. If you can. It should run a bit rough wide open with no load. Then when you start drilling, it should clean right up and scream. If you find a spot on the high speed screw adjustment that has the motor running real sweet with no load, turn the screw another 1/4 turn out and that should get you where you need to be. You have to adjust the high speed on these 3hp just past the sweet spot with no load so that they have plenty of fuel when they are under load or you can burn them up. When you are done with the adjustments, replace the red caps to save your settings.
  15. STOP Spinning??? 3hp Lazer

    One possible solution: Spray off the outside of the carb with carb cleaner and then take off the throat gaurd and spray some inside to get all the gunk off of the carb inside and out. Then work the throttle shaft back and forth and that should get it loose. The throttle shafts tend to get sticky from the oil residue left over from the gas. Being located right under the gas tank doesn't help that issue much. Everytime you spill a little gas it runs around the tank and drips right on the carb. I don't remember off the top of my head how the governor hooks up, but make sure that is working and in place. Make sure you dump what carb cleaner out of the carb you can after spraying the inside so you don't flood the motor. If memory serves that throttle should snap shut when you release the throttle.