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pikeandchester

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About pikeandchester

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  • Birthday 04/13/1976

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  • Location:
    janesville, mn
  1. .99 cent a pound pork butt At Hy-Vee through march 6th
  2. 6.5x14 mini toy haulers I looked at new generally where running $10,500 to $12,500 depending on options. Only saw a couple used 2011 or newer pop up in the last few months, they where listed about $9500. Seems to be a fair number of older ones that pop up but given there frames and, at least to me, unreasonable price I never looked at them; $6500 - $9000. Mostly just watched Craigs List and called dealers. Keys Power Sports in Owatonna has three in stock. If you call they will give you a different price than their listed MSRP on their web site.
  3. I called Ice Castle. They told me they put 2500# axles on (each side) so the frame is good for 5000#. she explained they are built with the expectation that atvs and such will be hauled in them. As for the tires, they are load range C, from what I gather they are rated for 1820# each. A few hours after I made the post I bought a 2013 6.5 x 14 Mini Toy Hauler. It has the arctic package, cedar interior, electric brakes and extra tall walls that accommodate extra tall ramp door to allow a side by side to fit. I will only be putting a sportsman 600 in, so fully loaded I expect total weight to be around 3500#. There seems to be a big difference between the model 2011 and newer from older models.. Pre 2011s have angle iron frames, tube frames 2011 and later. That's what I am finding, hopefully someone can correct me if i am wrong. Hope I didn't make a bad decision, time will tell. Thank you for the responses.
  4. I am thinking of buying one of these but am concerned about overloading it. House is rated at 2990# and approximate dry weight of 2400#. as soon as i put my atv (800#) in its overloaded, plus the other necessities. It comes with electrics brakes, which I don't believe are required on a trailer under 3000# so my thought was that maybe Ice castle plans this thing to be overloaded and licenses it light to get the permanent registration from the state. I am absolutely no expert on this and would greatly appreciate any advice.
  5. Thanks for the info. I read up on the air pump. From what I can tell Toyota extended the warranty on model years thru 2010 to 10 years or 150,000 miles. Still read reports the problem exists in 2011 and 2012 which are not covered. There is a bypass kit that can be installed, reasonably priced, so maybe the problem isn't a deal breaker. I appreciate the response Jeremy!
  6. Found a Tundra for what looks like a decent price. 2011 double cab sr5 5.7l with 64,000 miles. With a little research I am finding what seems to be a lot of issues with the limp mode and cold weather starting. I read some posts from last year on this site and am wondering if anyone worked through the issues and is satisfied. I like the specs on the truck, towing, cargo capacity, and motor specs but am a bit nervous. Does anyone know if Toyota has resolved these issues? Should I steer clear? Thanks.
  7. Doesn't use any oil. I will have to check on warranty (very good idea, thanks). To update, I cleared the code a second time and it hasn't popped back up yet, after 450 miles of driving this week. May not be much to do until the code comes back? Thank you for the reply Jeremy.
  8. I have a 2001 Buick Century, 3100 motor, with 130,000 miles. Twice in the last week I have gotten a p0420 code, no other codes.. I poked around on line and it sounds like the most common cause is a bad catalytic converter. I replaced the catalytic converter at roughly 80,000 miles, about three years ago, with a Walker brand. Got the intake manifold gasket replaced at 65,000 miles. My question is, do I just put a new one in or is there anything else I should look at first? Thank you for any responses and Merry Christmas.
  9. Tranmission and rear axle are seperate units. I,ll take a closer look. It doesn't sound like adding a little extra will hurt anything. Thanx for the replies.
  10. I have a 2005 Polaris Sportsman 600 twin. I changed the transmission, front and rear differential fluids. When I filled each, the level was below the fill hole. I followed the owners manual on type and amount of fluid (15 oz transmission, 5 oz front and 5 oz rear differetial) Should the fluid be filled to the bottom of the fill hole? Thank you for any responses.
  11. I stummbled on an old post about pulling an 8x16 Ice Castle fish house with a Jeep Liberty having #5000 trailer tow package. If sammy81777 or anyone else with this tow vehicle would like to share your experience I would appreciate it. I am looking at a #1400 aluminum 6.5x12 toy hauler but it does not have electric brakes which the 8x16 would come with.
  12. catalytic converter was bad
  13. you are correct,3 coils. while engine cool i pressed brake firmly while in reverse and put the gas pedal to the floor, ran smooth. repeated when engine was at normal operating temp and still ran well. sprayed maf sensor with maf cleaner, removed egr valve and sprayed it with carb and choke cleaner. i have ran 2 tanks of gas thru with injector cleaner. no change after any of this. it seems there is a dead spot when accelerating, if i get heavy into the throttle it runs smooth, does'nt seem to depend on engine temp. i do have a scanner that give live data but i can't find anything telling me if a coil is bad. Thank you for the replies everyone's ideas are appreciated
  14. 2001 buick century 3100 motor 84,000 miles. Car hesitates on acceleration above 20 mph and motor stumbles/misses at cruising speed when heavy load is encountered (any hill) and shifts out of overdrive. Intake manifold was replaced at 58,000 miles. fuel and air filter, spark plugs and wires replaced at 80,000 with no change. check engine light not on, hooked up to scanner,no codes. throttle position sensor reads from 0%-100% smoothly while in "review data" on scanner. any ideas what could be wrong would be greatly appreciated.
  15. i have a 1995 escort wagon 1.9 liter 225,000 miles. the body is falling apart but still running well