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About JohnMickish

  • Rank
    Sr HSO Family
  • Birthday 06/10/1964

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  • Location:
    White Bear Lake
  1. Bleed them before you put them on ice. You will have fresh clean firm meat that way.
  2. DO NOT put two transducers on the transom if they are going to be running at the same time. You have an easy problem to fix now.
  3. Is one transducer on the trolling motor and one on the back or are both on the transom? Garmin, Lowrance, Humminbird, Vexilar and Marcum 2D sonar (flasher is a 2D) all work on 200Khz (+- some frequency variation when using CHIRP) so when the transducers are mounted to close to each other you get interference. In your photo, at 18.9 feet deep you shouldn't be getting transducer interference unless you either have a very short boat or the 'ducers are mounted to close to each other. Are both graphs powered directly from the battery or do they go through some factory wiring? Does it happen with and without the trolling motor running? Does it happen with the big motor is running? Minnkota or Motorguide trolling motor? Interference can be a difficult thing to diagnose.
  4. I used the word "shadow", which is what the shaded area is referred to, but it has nothing to do with sunlight. It has to do with the area that the sound (455Khz in DI) does not hit. If there is an item sticking up in the water column, the leading edge will be brighter (depending on density the brightness will differ) and there will be a "shadow" behind it because the sound waved didn't reach that area. When there is a depression the "shadow" will be on the leading edge. Think of it like a flashlight in the dark. The transducer uses sound, the sound bounces off of stuff and returns, then the processor thru it's algorithms puts a picture on the graph. It's not light but sound that does the work, but the end results would be similar looking. With the crib you can see that the "shadow" is behind the object indicating that the structure is sticking up above the bottom. The holes have the shadow on the leading edge, indicating they are below. Think flashlight. SI and DI are a learning process. It's the fine points that will show if it's above or below the bottom of the lake, plus how hard the structure is.
  5. The black spots are holes, the shadow is on the leading edge, showing that it is below the surface not above it.
  6. The bottom one is just rocks. Take screen shots instead of photos, they are way easier to see.
  7. I've got a bunch of Humminbird Snapshots of my DI and SI stuff. Many people pay for the technology and don't know what they are looking for. Study these shots and tell me what you think you see.
  8. Rock or fish? Look at this one real hard.
  9. You tube. There are some fantastic tutorials out there for all the sonar brands out there.
  10. Totally my bad, I was thinking it was a 5 ". Let me rephrase, you can get a brand NEW with warranty 9 or 10" screen with sonar and GPS for $1000 or less. Something that old is going to have trouble using any new mapping chips (processor speed will be the issue) so I would put TOP dollar at under $250 if it came with a chip. Sorry to be the guy that puts a price tag on it, but old sonars are not worth much with all of the advancements going on nowadays. You can get a 9" touch Lowrance (Elite 9TI) with side imaging for $1000 now, and it has the ability to make a map on the fly!
  11. You can buy a NEW 5 inch graph with GPS for $300, that should give you an indication of what it is worth.
  12. I have one and it is absolutely the best addition I have ever put on a boat. I use it every time I go out. When I fish by myself I launch the boat, drop the talon and the boat stays at the dock. Play the wind right and zero dock rash. It hooks to the starting battery and doesn't draw power unless its being deployed or retracted. If it's windy it will float to keep you in place put it draws way less power than a graph. I have mine on a tilt bracket so I can drop it to get under bridges and low garage doors. There is a manual way to retract if something goes wrong. Other than being a little spendy, they are an awesome tool.
  13. If in doubt, change it out. Seriously though, to me, it all depends on the fish your fishing for. If your catching loads of fish in Canada, wait till it breaks, if your fishing for trophy's is it worth risking a personal best on a rig you are not 100 percent sure of?
  14. I used to tie most of my spinner harnesses, but now I purchase them and only build them when needed. I have found that with the right shopping you can find quality hooks and line already built for about the same price as doing it yourself. I go thru 200 or so harnesses a year so the time I save is priceless. As mentioned above, beads and blades are where the money is at. On the subject of beads, glass beads can be found at stores like Hobby Lobby, Joanne's and such. Glass beads sink, plastic beads float, glass beads retain their color, plastic beads tend to wear off their color or just fade from the water. The reason I go thru so many harnesses is after every catch I check for nicks, if there is one that harness is done. I also shorten them up when fishing in rocks or in Zebra infested waters, and those harnesses usually don't make it thru the day. It's easier to throw away a 30 cent harness than to lose 2 bucks worth of beads and blades.