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  1. Anyone else dumb enough?

    Bought tickets yesterday. Will be my first Vikings game in decades. We chose seats on the NW side of the stadium, hoping that it will block most of the wind. I may need to wash the blood off of my deer hunting bibs...
  2. I meant to say: He also suggested running the wires directly back to the battery with an inline fuse, OR to a separate battery.
  3. The store said that the battery was "charged and ready to go", I just put it in and went out fishing. To be fair I should put it on the charger and make sure that it is fully charged before trying anything else. I did talk to a tech who rigs boats at the big C store (where I purchased the unit). He said that it the voltage drops below 12V, the unit will shut off. He also suggested running the wires directly back to the battery with an inline fuse, to a separate battery. My plan is to: make sure the battery is fully charged, check the voltage while the motor while cranking, decide from there. Unfortunately this will have to wait a couple of weeks because of other things going on.
  4. Ok I'm back, this weekend, I purchased and installed a brand new marine cranking/deep cycle battery (group 24). The previous battery was purchased in 2009 and was a marine cranking only, so it was time. The first time I started the engine (3.0 L I/O), instead of the unit immediately shutting off, the screen kind of flickered a bit and then shut off. To make matters worse, it would not power back up until I unplugged the power cable from the back of the unit for a few seconds, it was obviously getting itself confused during the brown out. As I said earlier, I was using the supplied 6' power pigtail that came with the unit, after closer examination, it appears to be 22 gauge wire, at least that is the size that I need to use on my wire stripper to correctly strip the insulation on it. I ran 5' of 14 gauge stranded wire directly from the power lead coming in to the fuse block and clipped the HBird pigtail 1' from the end and soldered the wires together. I turned the engine blower off before trying to crank the engine, there is nothing else drawing current, this is a very simple 1995 boat. Same d___ thing happens. I think I either have a starter that is pulling a LOT of juice, or a defective sonar unit.
  5. Thanks for all of the responses. I am going to be putting in a new battery next weekend, since now that I think about it, it may be 7 years old and not 5. Certainly cannot hurt. I'm pretty sure it is a 24 series, I will upsize it to a 27 if they are the same outer dimensions. As far as the power wiring, I used the pigtail that came with the unit. It was just long enough (6' I think) to reach from the mounting location to the terminal block under the dash. I crimped and soldered fork connectors to the wires, and then screwed them to the terminal block. My impression was that the wires looked pretty small, like 16 gauge?
  6. I purchased and installed one of these this spring. Previous unit was a Humminbird Wide 100 (20 years old but still working). If I have both units powered up, the old Wide 100 will not show any info, but the Helix is fine. If I shut off the Helix, the Wide 100 will then start to show the lake bottom. I assume that is caused by transducer interference, and I am not worried too much about that. The annoying problem that I have is that, every time I start the engine, the Helix immediately shuts off. I then have to turn it back on, push a few buttons to get back to the view that I want, and wait for the GPS to synch up. The Wide 100 never had this problem, and still does not have this problem. Is the Helix much more touchy on voltage sags than the older units? Is there some sort of filter capacitor/diode that I can buy to put on the power feed to the Helix to keep it alive while I'm starting the engine? The starting battery is a 5 year old Interstate, the engine is a 3.0 OMC I/O. It's always taken a few seconds of cranking to start, but it always starts right up. The funny thing is that it seems as soon as I turn the switch to the "start" position, the unit goes black. I though that perhaps the boat was wired in such a way as to shut off all auxiliary circuits while cranking, but just looking at it visually it doesn't appear to be that sophisticated, it's a 1995.
  7. Humminbird Helix

    I bought one a couple of weeks ago, along with the Lakemaster chip. Tried it out for a bit on the dining room table. Considering my other unit is a 1995 Humminbird 100, it is pretty cool. By the way, I got the GPS/Sonar version without side or down imaging. As soon as I get the boat out of storage, I will need to figure out how to get it mounted, I pretty sure that there is a RAM mount in my future purchases. Does anyone know if I will be able to run both transducers at the same time without interference? I was thinking that I would leave the old 100 in place since the new unit will not be visible to all locations in the boat at the same time.
  8. Number of posts

    Stop whining!
  9. Arctic Cat 400 Shifter Problem

    My 2006 Arctic Cat 400 sometimes is stubborn on shifting. I have found that it is much easier to shift after it has warmed up. Another thing is to make sure that the idle speed is not too high. Mine has a idle speed adjustment knob on a short cable on the carb, I sometimes speed it up to help it warm up, then forget to slow it back down. After I slow it down it shifts easily.
  10. Simplicity snowblower junk yard

    I think that I also have the same machine, inherited when my father-in-law passed. You might try calling Lehmann's Power Equipment in Anoka. They seem to have a fair amount of used equipment and parts around.
  11. They said that they checked the E-brake. They kept the car overnight to look into other possibilities. If they call back and say they found nothing I'll ask about the hoses. Thanks.
  12. 2009 Honda Civic Hybrid, approx. 88K miles. Last fall the local shop did a brake job (pads only I think) and told me that drivers rear wheel caliber was sticking a bit. They said that they cleaned and lubed it up and it was working again. This spring, get out of the car after driving a few miles and smell something very hot. It is the wheel I was warned about, took it in, they replaced both rear calipers, and the rotors and pads since the one side was completely shot. Sunday my daughter comes home from a 7 mile trip and the same wheel is so hot you can smell it again. Other 3 wheels are fine. Dropped it off at the same shop yesterday even though the problem wasn't occurring anymore. They say that everything is operating fine, although they can see the see that the rotor has discolored from the heat. They don't want to change out any parts until they know what is wrong, which is understandable. I don't want to drive, or have others drive, the car until I know that the brakes work and it won't start on fire going down the road. Is this a case of a bad remanufactured part? Or possibly an ABS or VSA system going bonkers and telling the one wheel to brake? I have never noticed any warning lights coming on for those systems.
  13. New Control Box?

    1995 Four Winns 3.0 I/O, it appears that the neutral interlock switch on the throttle/shift control is bad. Actually, I knew it was getting bad for a couple of years, but now I really need to wiggle and bump the thing to get the starter to crank. It seems that you cannot just buy the switch, but have to replace the entire control box. Online I have found a Teleflex CH1700 for about $290, and a UFlex Single Lever Side-Mount Control for about $230. I have heard of Teleflex before but not UFlex. Does anyone know if they are a reliable brand? Gander/Overtons sells the Uflex, and I've purchased from them online before and have had good results.
  14. Going Out Of Business Sale

    Make sure that you calculate the final price on things. I looked at a St.Croix rod at that store, their price was $120 minus 20%, less than a mile away, another sporting goods store had the same rod at $100. I also looked at a wild game recipe book that was 30% off, but you could see part of a $19.99 price sticker that was underneath the $24.99 price sticker.
  15. Tow Vehicle

    Also, front wheel drive will give you problems on some boat ramps, been there, done that. I towed a 2500 lb boat/motor/trailer for a few years with a 93 Plymouth minivan with a towing package. Worked great except when on a steep ramp, the front wheels would spin. A little sand on top of blacktop was the worst.