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LightningBG

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About LightningBG

  • Rank
    Sr HSO Family
  • Birthday 08/01/1979

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  • Location:
    Lake Elmo, MN
  1. Furnace recomendations?????

    I recently put a new furnace/AC in a house. Went with a Goodman 95%. I did all of the install and ductwork, then had a company (actually a guy from a company doing it on the side (they did commercial)) come in and run the lines to the AC, vacuum them, test all the pressures, make adjustments, etc. That stuff was way over my head and I didn't feel like blowing up down the road. I think I ended up paying him between $500 and $1000 when all was said and done, plus parts. But... finding those guys can be tricky.
  2. Shower light requirements?

    1 requirement is that they will have to be GFCI protected. Here is a little snippet from another site. Quote:Shower Lighting It goes without saying that showers are wet locations. Lighting can be a little dicey in wet locations, but without lights, showers can also be cavernous and shadowy, hardly a welcoming place for any working person to spend the first few pre-caffeinated moments of the day. As a result, recessed shower lighting is an appropriate measure to take. Select an approved wet location fixture with a high quality trim resistant to water. This involves a combination of a rubber gasket with a glass diffuser, which creates a barrier for the actual light fixture so that no water can enter. Contrary to popular belief, recessed shower lights are not all created equal. In fact, there are a number of options available for highly attractive recessed shower lights, from the more traditional inconspicuous and largely unremarkable versions to an elegant and individualized trim to complement the style of the rest of the bathroom. The myriad of lenses available can add to the aesthetic, and include frosted lenses, opal glass, Fresnel, or albalite. For a more even diffusion of light, a domed glass diffuser can be an excellent choice. Of course, a light bulb that is compatible with the bathroom and light fixture is critical for a shower light. Traditionally, halogen lamps have been used, but more and more people are opting for LED models for a far more energy efficient lighting system. Whatever the shower light, it is critical to be aware that the light is appropriately rated and safe for a wet location, because showers are different from any other room in a home. Personally, I would head into the local home improvement store, tell them you are looking for a fixture for inside a shower and follow their recommendation (as long as its rated on the package for wet locations). Then just make sure its GFCI protected (properly). The switch and fixture will have to be post GFCI outlet (on the load side), or on a GFCI breaker.
  3. wood duck houses

    Are you hoping to make it too slippery to climb or sticky so predators get stuck? I don't think it will stay sticky for long once covered in dust and rain.
  4. limer rental

    Are you using pellet lime or the powder? How many total lbs or tons are you spreading? What location? Pellet lime should go into a regular broadcast spreader. Powder is a little more difficult.
  5. Building up a seasonally wet trail

    That's one way I was thinking too. could you clear a good enough path to float a boat? Dry is good, wet is OK, both is tough.
  6. Low Priced Tablet Recommendations

    I received a cheap one for free from one of my suppliers. Some random weird name. Total junk. My 8yo daughter wont even use it. She'd rather stare at the wall. One of my coworkers bought a RCA for about $100 on sale at wally world and she's been very happy with it.
  7. Under Deck Shed Construction

    I would look into under deck drainage systems first. Some of the systems have to be done before the deck boards are on, some after. The ones I've seen aren't cheap though. Once that is dealt with or at least figured out, then move onto the actual wall construction planning.
  8. New House

    You are correct, with a small caveat. This is the new MN code Quote: R501.3 Fire protection of floors. Floor assemblies, not required elsewhere in this code to be fire-resistance rated, shall be provided with a 1/2-inch (12.7 mm) gypsum wallboard membrane, 5/8-inch (16 mm) wood structural panel membrane, or equivalent on the underside of the floor framing member. Exceptions: 1. Floor assemblies located directly over a space protected by an automatic sprinkler system in accordance with Section P2904, NFPA13D, or other approved equivalent sprinkler system. 2. Floor assemblies located directly over a crawl space not intended for storage or fuel-fired appliances. 3. Portions of floor assemblies can be unprotected when complying with the following: 3.1. The aggregate area of the unprotected portions shall not exceed 80 square feet per story 3.2. Fire blocking in accordance with Section R302.11.1 shall be installed along the perimeter of the unprotected portion to separate the unprotected portion from the remainder of the floor assembly. 4. Wood floor assemblies using dimension lumber or structural composite lumber equal to or greater than 2-inch by 10-inch (50.8 mm by 254 mm) nominal dimension, or other approved floor assemblies demonstrating equivalent fire performance. But...it's my understanding that each municipality must adopt the new code before it's enforceable. Towns don't have to follow the state code if they choose not to, or if they haven't gotten around to adopting it yet.
  9. New House

    Waaaaa? What codes are you running? Never heard of such a thing nor seen it in houses built within the last 2 years.
  10. Home Fire Protection

    I dont think so. Our house has them and all the sprinklers on the upper level are on the walls, not in the ceiling. That being said, I don't think I'd pay to have them installed. They just happened to already be in this house. If a house starts on fire, my goal is to get me and the family out. I couldn't care less what happens to the house or how much it costs to replace or repair. Seems like often when people die in house fires their are "unusual" circumstances. Space heaters instead of a working furnace. Lots of people in the house, etc. Doesn't mean it cant happen to anyone though. These are good tips. Fire is dangerous. Extinguishers are a good idea.
  11. In all seriousness. Many people have died when the cable/chain/strap breaks trying to pull things out. If you do attempt it, be very careful. When half of a broken strap or chain comes through your back window at 100mph, bad results are likely.
  12. I'm gonna vote for an excavator. With a good operator you probably wouldn't even have to cut down the trees first. They actually prefer the weight up high to help them over, then they can pull out the root ball still attached to the tree. With any root or stump, even after grinding, you're going to be running into that thing until it rots away, which could take a long time. Take a look at this video at 2:30. The operator knocks over a tree and grabs with the root ball attached and tosses it in the pile. Of course, hiring someone costs money, which isn't fun, but it's going to be quite the task with no heavy equipment.
  13. I would say he probably would have been ok if they weren't lilys and if he didn't put them in the middle of the lake. The lily's could be taken from the boat path but not from the swimming area (from what I can tell) I don't think using a boat or dragging a tool would be illegal. It really isn't "earth moving equipment". Also doesn't matter if it's muck or sandy for the swimming area.
  14. Where are you located? That will help determine where to get rid of it.