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redtrucks

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About redtrucks

  • Rank
    HSOShow.com Family
  • Birthday 07/28/1966

Profile Information

  • Location:
    Wahpeton, ND
  1. Snowmobile 2 cycle oil?

    Use arctic blue in my pre power valve arctic cats and use Amzoil in my crossfire.
  2. Has anyone had experience replacing passenger side head gasket on a Supercrew? 127k miles and the head is starting to seep in the bottom corner of the passenger side head. Can it be done without lifting up the cab? Are there special tools need to time the cams? If so, can these tools be purchased from a aftermarket supplier? Maybe I should just take to the dealer and get it repaired but heard that it would cost over 2k. Would like to leave it go until spring when my shop is finished but I have babied this truck from new and hate to see a oil leak.
  3. 06 LaCrosse no heat

    My daughters 06 Grand Prix had the same issue. Changed the thermostat and bled the air out of the system, still no heat. Back flushed the heater core and now it can cook her out of the car.
  4. SnowPlow Guys?

    Have had a Western plow for 5 years and have never had an issue with snow build up on the plow.
  5. arctic cat question

    Replace the bearing, it only takes half hour max if the bearing isn't seized to shaft. Replace with a Fafnir 1100 bearing costs about $15.
  6. Who makes a good pull behind sled for gear?

    Otter - one for my fish house and the kids have one for pulling behind the snowmobile. After several years of abuse by the kids and as the kids got bigger they broke the sled in two. Have a plastic welder at work and welded the sled back together. That was a couple of years ago and the sled is still going.
  7. Buying a Scan Tool

    In my small town the auto parts stores don't want to compete with the repair shops so they don't offer that service. I would rather own my own tools than ask or borrow someone elses.
  8. Looking at buying a inexpensive CanOBSD2 scan tool to at least diagnose and be able to turn off the check engine light. I am a diesel tech by trade so I'm not just another backyard mechanic with no experience on what I'm doing. Just had a check engine light come on in my wife's vehicle and it was a bad egr valve, took the dealer less that an hour to troubleshoot and replace but cost me about $120 in labor. I just hate paying someone else for something that I have the talent to accomplish. If the job were to be more than I can handle I would have the dealer repair but it would be nice to have an idea on why the check engine light was on. Looking at purchasing a Craftsman model 009-87702 - on sale for a $100. Anyone have an experience with this tool?
  9. Used snowmobile question

    Research a snowmobile purchase with any of your friends that might own one. There always seems to be some tinkering that needs to be done on a sled and they are costly to own and operate. I just sold a 1997 AC Z440 with 2900 miles for $1100. Good sled and easier on fuel but there was always some little tweaking that needed to be done or maybe I'm just a little more fussy than the average person. I have 1 carb sled left the others are EFI. I would never buy another carb sled again! A liquid cooled 440 is a good sled and should keep your son happy.
  10. Arctic Cat 600 ZL problem..

    This comes from a Arctic Cat HSOforum: This topic has come up more times this year than I can count so I thought I'd pin this for you guys. I've experienced this problem firsthand with mine and my buddies 99 ZR500 EFI as many of you have. You'll be going low to mid throttle and either punch it or slowly back off and the sled will just BOG or feel like you hit the kill switch. The very first thing to do is eliminate the THROTTLE SAFETY SWITCH when troubleshooting. What is happening is now that these sleds (1997-newer) are getting some mileage and age, the bushings, switch, and throttle lever assy. are wearing out/becoming sloppy. The switch activates and shuts down the sled-just like if you hit the kill switch. There are a couple of fixes for this. #1. Unplug the TSS/Kill switch harness altogether and just run with a tether or key switch. If you remove your handlebar cover and foam, it is the 3 wire harness coming from the RH throttle block. Just unplug and go. (Disclaimer-While I've ran with mine unplugged on my ZR, I DO NOT ADVOCATE disabling a safety system!! Like I said earlier-this is for "TROUBLESHOOTING" ) #2. Replace the white bushings for the throttle lever. This is a temporary fix, as it's only going to happen again........and probably soon. #3. Replace the whole throttle block assembly. Hey, if that little safety switch is that big of a deal to you- go right ahead! It costs right around $75 bucks. #4. This is a tip from one of our members, once you unplug that 3 wire harness, take a piece of heat shrink tubing and put it over the MIDDLE pin of that plug. This will eliminate the TSS, but you will still have the use of your kill switch. (Disclaimer-Again, this is for "troubleshooting" purposes ONLY......wink, wink!)
  11. Choke issue

    Pull the carbs and clean them, the idle circut is plugged.
  12. What rifle to buy

    I've use my 300 win mag for the past 10 years for both deer and elk hunting. Before the 300 all I used was my 30-06, now that gun sits in the safe. My next deer rifle will be a 270 WSM.
  13. Hunting success will be low in the SE part of the state. Very little soybeans and corn have been combined and there is water everywhere. With corn moistures of over 35%, there is no way that the corn will be harvested by the end of the deer season.
  14. Rem 770 in 30-06??????

    I purchased a 770 in a 243 last year for my son. Nice gun but if I had to do it over again I would purchase a Savage. I have some upper end Remington's which are very good, this is their bottom rifle and the bolt is really poor after shooting many rounds and trying different lubrications. A gun smith told me that with this rifle the bolt is poor.
  15. EFI

    I'm very mechaniclly inclined since my formal training was in diesel technology. Jackshaft bearings have been replaced along with the slides. I checked all of the idler bearings on the skid which were good, changed the chaincase oil, and fixed the exhaust manifold gaskets. It doesn't look like to me that anything has been touched on the engine so I would say that the stator is the original.