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Whoaru99

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About Whoaru99

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    Here, USA
  1. That sort of relay is typically available in three styles. Unsuppressed, resistor suppression, and diode suppression. Usually the resistor supression is sufficient to prevent flyback spikes from damaging the control circuit. But, diode supression does it for sure.
  2. Hard to see much on the picture, but here's the rodent-resistant braid put in one of the plug wires. Basically looks like brown Techflex braided loom. There was a note to avoid handling with bare hands to avoid irritation. Must be impregnated with something.
  3. We have one of those at work so I borrowed it and it showed the battery should be replaced. After further digging, I found out the battery was only 3 yrs old (Interstate Megatron MT-34) so I was a little skeptical of the result and because it seemed to take a good charge. Problem was the battery got too low to start the van after 3 - 4 days of not driving. Charging voltage with all accessories and lights on was strong 14.6V. Parasitic draw settled down to ~38mA after 5 minutes, give or take, after key off. There was no further drop (nor rise) checking 1/2 hour later. So, all that seemed OK. Since the battery was still in warranty, brought it to the local Interstate dealer and they tested it with a similar tester. Theirs showed the same result so they prorated it. Walked out with a new battery for roughly $70. Will see how it goes over the weekend.
  4. Current is common in a circuit. What goes in must come out. Current through the switch is the same regardless if on supply side or return side. I think low side switching is often used in electronics because I seem to recall N-channel devices generally have lower resistance and the circuits to turn them on/off are less complex than for P-channel device on the high side.
  5. Anyone having or using a conductance-style battery tester, do you find they're good/reliable at telling you the battery condition? Or, is there nothing like a good, old-school load test?
  6. Spray on Bedliner

    I had Ultimate put in a truck bed some years back. It's been just dandy.
  7. Indeed. A link to the product, if that's allowed. http://www.techflex.com/prod_rrn.asp
  8. Turns out one of the new plug wires was chewed through again, barely two weeks after they were replaced. I've ordered some Techflex Flexo Rodent Resistant sleeve to put over the plug wires.
  9. Misfire ended up being two plug wires chewed essentially all the way through. Was fine for about a week now the check engine light is on again, but not flashing. Still running smoothly so at this point, without yet retrieving the codes, my guess the EGR code P0404 is back.
  10. 3rd party warranty

    #1, first and foremost, what they tell you verbally don't mean SQUAT. What's covered and only what's covered, is WRITTEN in the policy. You are entitled by law to get a copy of the actual policy (not just the sales slicker glossy) before you buy. If you are interested, get a copy of the formal policy statement and read it. In there should be what is covered. If it is not listed, it is NOT covered, despite what anyone might imply. As well, it will describe the claim process and what documentation is required. If you do not do as above, I can almost guarantee disappointment and frustration sooner or later.
  11. I'll have to check if there is a misfire history screen in my scan tool. Don't think so, but it was a quick look before Thanksgiving dinner. Probably will end up having to bring it to a local shop anyway. It sits out in an open parking lot so doing too much isn't very practical at this point. Plus, I don't feel good about driving it to my place (~35 mi one way) in the current state.
  12. Doesn't show any specific cylinder, which I understand would be a code like P0301 and P0303 (if, for example, if it was cylinder 1 and cylinder 3). Is that what you mean? I don't know the service history, other than they typically brought it into the shop if there was anything wrong. Presumably that means maintenance had been done except for recently. The owners are elderly and the husband recently died so I'm trying to help out with it. Don't like that bit about the rocker arm...seemed like there was a knock but I assumed that probably was the misfiring since it shakes pretty good.
  13. I have an Actron 9145 scanner that reads, resets, shows freeze data and live sensor/parameter data, and had previously cleared P0404. Previously it was just the EGR code P0404. Now it's P0300 too. P0404 code takes a little while to come back, but P0300 comes back pretty much right after it starts. Apparently the misfire is 10% or more because the Check Engine light is flashing. When it was just the P0404 code there wasn't any noticeable driveability issue, but there sure is now with the P0300 code. It's noticeably missing/rough running both at idle and under power.
  14. 2007 Chrysler Town and Country, 3.8L, ~90,000 miles.
  15. Ok, finding the technical definition of the code P0300 is easy - random misfires. A bit of research seems to indicate that it can mean a problem with just about anything since the computer detects a misfire problem but not a specific cylinder or component fault. The thing runs noticeably rough at idle and you can feel it when accelerating too. Feels doggy as well. There was also a P0404 code but that didn't come back on the test drive after clearing the codes. Anyone have experience with this that might be able to suggest a few of the more common places to look?